Inti Raymi, Mountains and Devilish Trains

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June 24th 2007

Published: November 30th -0001

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vuganou

On the way to the ritual bathing

We walked through a eucalyptus forest to get to the sacred waterfall

Inti Raymi is the Solstice of the Sun held in late June, with the biggest celebrations held just north of Quito in Otavalo. And to think I nearly missed it! I was still in Tena at the time and got talking to an older Canadian woman who jogged my memory of this and off I went to Quito instead of heading South as planned.

The celebrations started on Friday evening with ritual bathings at a sacred waterfall (Peguche), with hundreds of people heading through the middle of a eucalyptus forest, where a dozen or so had decided to brave the freezing water. One by one they made an offering of money or flowers, said a prayer to the gods for a good year, and then washed themselves in the water (not directly under it of course as it was pretty high).

The night before Inti Raymi (Saturday) was definitely the night to fiesta! This was my first impression of how South Americans party, and they did not disappoint! There was dancing All through the streets and even through whatever doorways were left open, it was crazy! Drink of the night was aguardente and hot mora (sugarcane spirit with blackberry

Making an offering

These people (including a few tourists) braved the icy water to ask for blessings for the new year and for humanity

juice) Yummo!

People danced in little groups (according to location and communities I guess) and many had their traditional costume or devilish masks on. The musicians, usually a guitarist and a flautist played in the middle and everyone else danced around them in a circle. Then they would change directions. Groups would dance up and down the street (and rooms if they were open!) and would circulate in a seemingly orderly chaotic fashion...

It was a total blast and needless to say, I got home very early (or is it late?) the next morning, though I for one couldn't continue for as long as the festivities lasted, which was for a whole week...

After the big party it was down to Guaranda, a lovely colonial town with views of Volcan Chimborazo like you wouldn't believe. In fact the reason for me coming here was because I heard the bus trip there was sensational - and it certainly delivered. I had never seen a snowcapped mountain let alone get so close to one. The landscape around it was paramo - stark and bushlike. The ruggedness of it all was Simply Breathtaking.

The trip to Riobamba was again,

Inti Raymi

very picturesque, but the town itself was pretty average. Again glorious views of Chimborazo, so nice that it nearly made me want to climb it haha (I am not a hiker). Reason for being here? To go on the Devil's Nose Railway (La Nariz del Diablo) which for its time was meant to be a feat in engineering. Except a few months ago a tourist sitting on the roof of the train got decapitated (or something to that effect) by a cable - so now not only can you not sit on the roof, but the 'train' was actually a bus on wheels. Tsk, some people just spoil it for everyone... Absolutely Gorgeous scenery but at one point there was SO much rubbish accumulated on the banks of a stream that my jaw dropped. I have since been thinking of ways to minimise the refuse problem in Ecuador (big ambition I know, but hey).

Next stop was Cuenca, which everyone seems to love as it is meant to be this gorgeous colonial town, but for me Guaranda filled that spot. Sightseeing was not the top of my priority, as I was not feeling well, but I did manage to