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Published: October 28th 2006
Monday 16th
Up very very very early to catch a taxi at 5.30am to the airport. I thought this was supposed to be a holiday!! In fact I'm pretty nervous that the taxi won't even arrive. He's a minute late (I hadn't started panicking yet).
At the airport we meet a few people who will be on our boat. We spend a couple of minutes chatting to them (Patti, Helena and Marcy - 3 American ladies over 50). They're amusing especially as a group so I can't help but call them The Golden Girls!
We fly to Guayaquil (again) to pick up some more passengers. Kate's got the window seat in the plane (I'm such a nice person) so I spend much of my time cramping her so I can see where we are - good job too as I've got a fat man next to me taking up some of my airspace (not a good thing here!).
We land and are taken to our boat "The Seaman". It's very sweet and cosy!! Perhaps a little claustrophobic in the cabins (later we find out that we seem to have the smallest one, I guess that cos we
the youngest and fittest people on this trip :-)
We have lunch on the boat - good food and 3 courses. Is this a sign of things to come, when will I ever fit into my new trousers!!! We sail to Bartolome, with an accompaniment of frigate birds. Not a bad start.
In the afternoon we go snorkeling, at this point Kate and I are wondering whether the islands are going to live up to the hype, when lo and behold a couple of penguins swim past us in the water. Fantastic.
Bartolome is one of the highest points in the area (at least I can breathe when we climb to the top of it) and there are pretty good views from the top. We're up here for a beautiful sunset and then its back to the boat for more food (I was right about how much we get fed, another 3 courses!).
We're in bed before 9pm! Most of the sailing is done at night. Tonight we sail to Genovesa, a 9 hour crossing through choppy seas. Our cabin is at the front of the boat and I'm in the top bunk. I'm fairly certain
we won't make it as its pretty rough and I'm holding onto the edge of the bunk praying (always a first time) that I won't fall off. In the end I actually sleep like a baby!
Tuesday 17th
We're up pretty early as we're very excited! We find Marcy upstairs with a big bump on her nose - she's not had a good night and was sick. The bump on her nose is from where she's hurled herself at the sink to be sick! She's in pretty good spirits and doesn't even smell......
At Genovesa there is a large collapsed crater which we sail into, watching several sea birds on the cliff faces. We have a huge breakfast and them jump in the pangas (dinghies) for a wet landing on the beach at Darwin Bay. All this means is that you jump out of the boat into ankle deep water when you land.
We follow a trail along the cliffs. It always slow going as there is so much to look at. This island is famous for its birds, especially a large collection of red footed boobies. There are birds everywhere making "barking" sounds. There are lots
of ugly babies who just sit and stare at us even though we are only a few feet away. We watch several cactus finches feeding (on cacti!) only for them to be harassed by mocking birds - they let the finches do all the hard work of getting into the cactus and then chase them away so that they can feed.
We snorkel from the island - loads of fish. There's a seal lion on the beach so we keep trying to get close to him to have a look.
Another huge lunch and then more snorkeling. The sea lions come out to play this time, they are amazing to watch underwater. Back to the boat for a snack (of course!)
Finally we have a walk at Prince Phillips steps, where we have to spot the short eared owl. We do spot it, but about 20 meters away and the sun is setting. To me it just looks like a rock! There are nesting Nazca boobies up here, all over the trail. They're pretty stupid birds that take 3 weeks to build a nest on the ground!
More food and then to bed even earlier -
8.30pm. It must be all that food I've eaten making me sleepy!
Wednesday 18th
We have the long overnight sail back to Santa Cruz - its not a choppy and Marcy made it through the night!
Up early (a common theme for the Galapagos) to have a panga ride in Caleta Tortuga Negra. It's a peaceful mangrove filled lagoon. Its a beautiful place, we're steered slowly around watching white tipped reef sharks, spotted eagle rays and green sea turtles swimming below us. There are hundreds of blue footed boobies on the water but strangely enough not many other birds than some pelicans. Galo (our guide) explains that this is because the birds feed as a group and are very noise. As we're about to find out. Hundreds of blue footed boobies fly past us (and over us), with just the sound of wings flapping. They fly in a group and suddenly dive as a group into the water to catch fish. It's one of the most spectacular sights I've ever seen and I can't believe that they don't bump into to each other - this happens several times. As Galo says "A Gift from the Galapagos".
Later we sail to Plaza Sur for a dry landing. We have problems getting out of the boat as there is a "beach master" protecting all the young sea lion cubs. He's a big beast of a sea lion that barks at us as we try to land. I prefer to call him the Bitch Master (that's what is sounds like with Galo's funny accent). We finally land and run for our lives (ok it wasn't that bad but was still pretty scary as they can do you some serious damage and I'm fairly certain that my insurance won't cover it). This place is famous for its sea lions and iguanas (we see a fair few, all within a couple of feet).
Later we get to sea kayak, which is brilliant fun as the sea lions come to investigate us and swim along side us, diving in and out of the water. Kate and I are the only ones to snorkel here (you can't miss out on anything!). The waters pretty murky but we still see a turtle. Back at the hostel a week later, we're told that there are bull sharks in this area because of all
the young sea lions to feed on. Glad we didn't get mistaken for a sea lion!!
Thursday 19th
An overnight sail to Santa Cruz, where we visit Puerto Ayora. Its the main tourist town (if you can call it that, with the worlds slowest internet connection). We visit the Charles Darwin research centre, where there are giant tortoises. We get to see Lonesome George, the last of his species as he won't mate with anyone. We get to see lots of tortoises but the place is very touristy and probably the least favourite thing we've done. We spend a few hours walking around the town.
In the afternoon we're off to the highlands of Santa Cruz. Some parts of it remind me of England but other parts are more like a tropical rain forest. Its pretty lush vegetation and not like the other islands that have been quite barren.
We visit a local farm where there are several tortoises residing. They are amazing and huge! We even get to see a large male ardently chasing a female and then climbing on top of her for a quickie. Noice!!
We also visit Los Gemelos, which are
2 large craters. They were once magma chambers that have collapsed in on themselves.
We lose half the group today as some people could only get availability for 4 days. We're sad to see Alana and Terry leave, but at least we get to keep The Golden Girls, Samir and a dutch couple (Phillip and Anne-Marie).
When we get back to the boat there are 8 new arrivals. I don't like them immediately (nothing like giving someone a chance eh!!)
Love Andrea x
Friday 20th October
We cruised through the night to the island of Floreana & had a morning Panga ride around the beaches & rocky out crops where some pinguinos were standing around looking oh so cute. We were dropped off on the beaches where we went for a couple of exploratory walks one up to a veiwpoint on top of a hill & the other down a huge lava tunnel where Galo had us turn off our torches & stand in the pitch black then gave us a lecture on the birth & death of the Galapagos islands throughout time by the light of his torch using lava rocks as examples.
Floreana is undoubtedly the prettiest of all the islands we visited as you can probably see from the photos we went for a snorkel from the beach & had one of the best snorkeling experiences of the whole trip (which didn't involve sea lions) as just centimeters below us grazing on the rocks we saw at least ten turtles. Some were huge scarred & grey others younger with beautiful coloured shells. We just hung there in the water watching them eat the seaweed in the crystal clear water below us ... wonderful!
In the afternoon we sailed to the Devil's Crown a huge rock in the middle of the ocean. Galo offered to take And & I diving so we put on all the gear expecting to have a beginners lesson but Galo seemed to think we know more than we did & expected us to head straight down we tried but didn't really get any further than just putting our heads under water. So we took of all the gear & went on the snorkeling trip instead which even though we were disappointed that we didn't get to dive was probably for the best & it turned out
that the divers didn't get to see anything more than we did anyway. The snorkeling was great, if hard work as the current was so strong that at times you would be doing the front crawl as hard as you can & getting nowhere. The water was a deep blue & teeming with sea life .. the highlights were a sleepy looking sea lion who spent her time just floating back & forth in the current so you could just hang out & watch her pass underneath you & a group of three spotted eagle rays who we spotted just as we were heading back to the panga.
Back to the boat for a hot chocolate a hot shower & a delicious dinner then an early night
Saturday 21st October (a night to remember)
Early start (urgh) on the island of Española. It has to be early as a huge ship with over a hundred people on it is about to arrive & Galo want´s to get us around the island before they get there (fair enough). Us usual the island is heaving with sea lions & there are a lot of cute 5 day old
cubs for us to coo at so it takes a while for us to get off the beach. As we walk through the bushes full of nesting Red Footed Boobies Galo realises that half of the group is missing & goes back to find them. It turns out that they´d been engrossed taking photos of the sea lions & then had taken the wrong path. poor old Patti Lou was one of them & when Galo came back to find them the others rushed off so quickly that she couldn´t keep up so she was left all alone struggling to catch up.
As we rounded the corner & came to the top of the cliffs there was a stunning view of the ocean waves crashing against the cliff walls. This was were the Albatrosses nested there were only a couple but it was still lovely to see them. Galo had us all looking for a chick that he knew was there quite close to the path but none of us could see it. Then it moved & And spotted it. The chick was almost under our feet but was so well camouflaged (a dirty grey coloured scruffy looking thing)
against the grey volcanic rocks that none of us could see it.
Further down the path we hit the realm of the Blue Footed Boobies. The little fellas were all walking around wheezing & waving their feet in an attempt to turn each other on. And took some great feet waving photos. We´ve both become very fond of these funny little fellas their daft looks & habits are very endearing. And a bit further along were the black & white Nazca Boobies & although they only have grey feet I think these are the most striking of the Boobies.
Back to the beach & while we were waiting for the Pangas And teased Galo about his pronunciation of the word predator which she thought sounded like potato as in "The Galapagos Hawk is the only potato of the Marine Iguanas".
into the pangas. As we cruised out of the bay we spotted turtles, sharks & marine iguanas swimming in the waters around us.
We sailed via Gardeners bay to the Island of San Cristobel "The best island in the world" according to Galo (bet you can´t guess where he is from)! After visiting the interpretation centre which
Floreana View
With the Seaman chugging alongwas full of interesting information about the history & make up of the islands we were left to our own devices. And & I wandered into a couple of shops bought some post cards & Galapagos playing cards & had every intention of exploring the whole of the port when we came across Margaret one of our ship mates (a very nice lady from Austria) who was sitting at a cafe table enjoying a beer & who invited us to join her for a drink ... how could we refuse! Before long most of the others had joined us & we were taking up most of the cafe.
We went back to the ship for dinner during which we all got more squiffy & And Badgered Patti Lou with questions about here life ... which was all very entertaining!, Samir, And & I decided that we would head back into the port for a couple of drinks & managed to persuade Patti Lou to come with us. Carlos kindly took us to the dock one of the pangas & we headed off down the main street looking for somewhere nice. By the time we reached the end of the
road we hadn´t found anywhere inspiring but we heard music from one of the side streets & when we went to investigate found a great little bar made of bamboo & there at the bar was Fred & at a table surrounded by about 15 pretty young ladies was Galo or Galito the sexual potato as we were now calling him.
We had asked the captain to send a panga for us at 11.30 but a very squiffy Galo persuaded us to go on with him to another "beeeeeeautiful playce" called the iguana. He told us that he had called the boat & cancelled our panga & he would call them again to pick us up later. So off we went with Galo to what turned out to be a buzzing little night club which played a fantastic selection of music & as the Ecuadorian mafia seemed to want our table it wasn´t long before we all hit the dance floor and were dancing our little socks off. Samir turned out to be a fantastic dancer & Patti Lou could certainly shake a tail feather or two. half way through the night I had one of those moments of
The Blue Footed Booby mating ritual
I don't hold out much hope for them! clarity where I suddenly realised that I was dancing with a Canadian Jesus in pajama bottoms & a woman my mum´s age & that And & I had been wearing the same clothes since the start of the cruise. It was certainly different from a night out at home!
We left the club at about 2am & staggered back to the dock where Galo called the boat but there was no answer. He tried again .... no answer. For half an hour he sat on the dock swaying from side to side & calling & texting the boat (they either didn´t hear him or ignored him) & muttering that it was their responsibility to come & get us. We could see the lights on the boat twinkling in the harbour about 75 meters away. Samir & I were discussing whether we should swim for the boat & get a Panga when all of a sudden Galo reared up behind us & gave Samir a massive shove which sent him flying into the water glasses, clothes (well pjamas) and all. I waded in to rescue his glasses then followed Samir into the water shouting at Galo that he was an
idiot & HE should be the one swimming to the boat. Galo eventually followed us in & all three of us swam through the dark water to the boat. Andrea kept calling from the dock to see if I was ok & each time I shouted back Galo (who must have been worried that we would get caught by the captain) would hiss somewhere from the darkness "shhhhhh stop screeeeaming." I´m proud to say that I got to the boat first but not so proud to say that all I did when I got there was sit in the panga & wait for the Men to arrive to so they could cast off & start the engine.
We drove the panga proudly back to pick up And & Patti Lou feeling like heros & finally arrived back at the Seaman sometime after 3am. Had hot showers & collapsed into our bunks tired but happy after our mad night out.
Sunday 22nd of october
The sound of the ships bell woke us but we thought it was to wake up the divers (Phillip & Anne Marie) who were heading out at 6am. So rolled over & went back
to sleep. When we awoke about half an hour later we realised with panic that it was actually the breakfast bell (Heaven forbid we would miss a meal) so we threw on our clothes & staggered up to the Galley. We got there just in time to grab our breakfast but we had managed to sleep through the ship sailing through the middle of the rock which a towering structure is split into two halves.
We sailed on to Isla Lobos which Galo told us was a great place for snorkelling with young sea lions. First we went for a walk on the island which was heaving with sea lions, iguanas & pelicans. We had a disturbing time when as we landed on the island we startled a young cub & he fell down a gap between the rocks & couldn´t climb back out. His pathetic little cries were very upsetting as he tried & tried to haul himself back out. Galo moved a rock so he would have an easy exit. Instead of climbing out, the little bugger fell asleep so we were never to see him escape & put our minds at rest.
Now it was
time to snorkel. And & I swam the length of the island only seeing one sea lion who didn´t seem very playful so dissapointedly we made our way back to the boat & as we got close the waterseemed suddenly full of young sea lions who swam all around us almosty touching us but never letting us touch them. It was an incredible encounter they would swim right up to you so that their noses would almost be touching your mask & there was one very cute moment when one of the pups picked up some flaoting sea weed & played with it under water.
We sailed on to Santa Fe which was an island mostly of iguanas & a few birds & where the snorkelling was uninspiring as the light & our hungover energy levels were fading fast so even though we saw sea lions & turtles we soon headed back to the boat to induldge in hot chocolate & slices of delcious pizza.
We had a lovely last dinner on that Boat that night where all the crew dressed up & had a cocktail with us & we all shared a wonderful chocolate cake that our
amazing 23 year old chef had prepared for us.
Monday 23rd October
Up at 6am for a walk around the tiny island of North Seymour to see yet another amazing highlight of the Galapagos; Magnificent Frigate birds breeding. The males put on a wonderful display puffing out there red pouches & clacking there beaks against them. We took loads of photos then headed back to the boat for our last breakfast & the short sail back to the harbour at Baltra. We said our goodbyes to the crew loaded ourselves into a bus & were taken to the airport where we killed time mooching around the stalls, getting our passports stamped & watching Patti Lou search for her lost plane ticket. She never did find it but still made it onto the plane!
We waved goodbye to Samir as he got off the plane at Guayaquil then had a very hairy flight back to Quito with the worst turbulence I´ve ever expierienced. More sad good byes at the airport in Quito where we bid farewell to Phillip & Anne Marie & the wonderful Golden Girls.
We had the most amazing time in the Galapagos & met
Another stupid ugly baby frigate bird
In its fifth month of sitting around doing nothing. Stupido! some really lovely people. Stay in touch shipmates!
Lots of Love,
Kate xxxxxxxx
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Imogen, Lydia & Max
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Jealous - us??
Why can't we come too? We're just off to Lydias disco and send you both all our love XXXX