The Galapagos Islands

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Well.... where do we start? Sit back, this is a long one! We have just spent an unforgettable two weeks in the Galapagos Islands and I wish we could do it all over again.

We took an 8-day boat trip around the islands and then spent another 5 days in the main town so Richard could get some dives in. On arriving we were met by our trusty guide Tommy, and taken to the "zodiacs" (dingys) to transfer to the boat. Everyone was quite obviously excited to be here and as we got off the bus we were confronted with a jam packed jetty full of sleeping sea lions absolutely flat out in the sunshine - after madly taking photos like some deranged Japanese tourist we stepped over them to get to the departure point.

The boat was fantastic and complete luxury to 2 budget travelers/holidayers such as ourselves. The guys on board couldn´t do enough for you and we felt thoroughly spoilt lying out on the sundeck as we cruised out of the harbour! After furiously checking out all the options in Quito it seemed we had picked a pretty good on bearing in mind it was a last minute deal - good work Richard!

That afternoon we were taken to Baltras where we watched huge marine iguanas munching at the moss on the rocks, flamingos in the lagoon, and all manner of other birdlife. For the next 8 days we traveled overnight to different islands and woke up to brand new scenery each morning. We were breakfasting by 7.00 and landing at our first place to visit by 8.00 latest.

The islands are barren volcanic land which is strangely quite beautiful, and teeming with all sorts of amazing and fearless wildlife. Some islands felt like another planet altogether..... or something off one of those awful old films with the bad special effects and plasticine monsters (think "The Land That Time Forgot"). We visited islands where the sky was thick with hundreds of sea birds and you walk past the various nests gauping at eggs, hour old chicks, and the crazy mating dances! The only danger is being pooed on! It almost feels like the animals are posing for photographs at times... we would walk around corners and stumble upon Galapagos Hawks, and Short Eared Owls so close up that you wonder if they are drugged! You of course keep a respectable distance buts its incredibly tempting to tickle the tummy of a baby Sea Lion or pat a Blue Footed / Red Footed Booby as you wander past!

I think one of the highlights for everyone was the snorkeling. We played with sea lions who swim right up to your face and then dart off, or swim next to you upside down looking at you as if to say "well come on then... show us what you can do!". Rich would dive down and do somersaults for them which they loved..... I think a couple of the females developed a bit of a crush at times! We saw some others playing "fetch" with a rock which was great fun to watch, and about 6 playing with a rope from the boat as if pulling it. I think its quite safe to say all of the group fell in love with the Sea Lions. We also swam with huge sea turtles that just cruised along quite happily. What else? Sting Rays measuring 2 metres across, and herds (?) of eagle rays, penguins which are like little bullets in the water..... and my first shark! It was a 2 metre white tip, so relatively harmless, but quite a big one and nevertheless quite awesome when you see your first shark coming towards you out of the depths! I haven't even mentioned the varying sizes, colours, and species of fish that we swam past/with!

We spent a day meeting the Giant Land Tortoises of the Galapagos, both in the Research Centre, and in the wild. Seeing the wild tortoises was a crazy experience, the fields they were in almost looked like an English field just dotted with these giant shells, but they were really entertaining to watch, and when they moved it sounded like boulders being heaved around.

Our final snorkel was amazing... there were so many different fish, including massive Tuna, Parrotfish, more Sea Lions, and in the last five minutes our group saw a Hawksbill Turtle (endangered), a huge Stingray, and another White Tip.

On the last morning we went to see the nesting Frigate Birds (with the big red pouch) and on the way back to the zodiacs saw a couple of very young Sea Lions which had been abandoned. It was quite a sobering moment watching them helplessly calling out and it felt incredibly sad that this was the last thing we saw before we left. Then suddenly we heard Tommy shout at us all to get back into the zodiacs fast as they had sighted a huge pod of dolphins charging through the bay. The zodiacs gave chase and we found ourselves flying along next to about 80 dolphins (including babies) porpoising through the water. It was just amazing to be allowed so close and I know it sounds cheesy but it was quite a spine tingling moment!

We took more photos in one day at the Galapagos than in the whole of Costa Rica (you have been warned if you decide to look at our albums, but please do). All in all, I don´t think I have ever taken so many photos or said WOW or THATS AMAZING so many times! I realise I am gushing, but seriously, if you ever get the chance to visit the Galapagos.... GO!
Cath


After finding and booking a reasonable tour on the Tuesday we were flying out to the Galapagos Islands by the Friday. We were picked up at the airport and on our first Island just after lunch on the boat (well one wouldn´t want to go to the Island on an empty stomach now would we?). For the next 8 days we had a full itinerary and everything was layed out for us. I also think I´m quite a bit heaver than when we left Quito.....

The place is amazing and to think that over 100 000 tourists go each year the wildlife is still unaffected. There are only certain places you can go (quite restricted which is good for the animals) and some times we had the entire place to ourselves. Noone is allowed to step onto the Islands without a guide to chaparone them, and while there has been damage done in the past 500 years this is being put right as best as possible (as far as we could see).

After the tour we stayed on for 5 days so I could dive with Hammerhead Sharks. This turned out to be a good plan as the others on our tour got off the boat, and on a plane, gone. We, on the other hand, went into the town with a friend Maria from the boat and had a nice meal and a bottle of wine! I chose my dive company because of the engines on their boat. Usually people go for safty. It had 2x200 horse power 4 stroke engines on a 26 foot marine ply..... Nice, Fast, Fun.

First dive:
* 2 Galapagos Sharks 3mtrs
* countless of schooling Hammerheads
* White Tips
* Huge turtles
* millions of fish

I was just what I was looking for! All in all it was a really good day and I saw everything I wanted to. It was mad to think that I used to be scared of sharks and now I am so excited to be in with them. There were about 20 or more Hammerheads in view (crazy heads) and thousands out of view. Along with all the others. The main dangerous ones there are the Bull Sharks, mean.....

Apart from the sharks the snorkeling on the boat trip was actually better in some places. One day I went in with about 50 turtles just grazing near a beach. I just floated as not to interrupt their dinner and watched them graze. Two huge ones came up from the bottom (3-4 metres deep) and just circled around me just looking, curious I suppose. One little one stopped eating and just looked at me for a minute, and then carried on eating. All the while the others would come up for air. I feel really lucky to have experienced it. We also snorkeled with 15 White Tips in a group, 40 Spotted Eagle Rays schooling. The Sea lions, which are my favorite for playing with, just love to swim up to you, and if you dive down they come with you so close. They put their faces right in yours. I loved it.

The second day diving was just as good. I saw a Pilot Whale on the way out there which was pretty amazing. When we dropped down, we went right into a massive school of fish which pretty much blocked out the sun. On the trip back to shore we spotted Dolphins....... We grabbed snorkels and fins which were scattered everywhere and dived overboard with them. The sonar was so loud there must have been 200 or more and when they moved on from us we got back on the boat. Remember the engines.... caught them in no time! They were surfing on the bow and jumping out, and there were Sea Lions playing with them as well. We saw a dolphin porpoise with a Sea Lion. In we dived again and they were everywhere, as 3 swam past within inches you knew more were coming up from the deep. So much fun!

We told ourselves that the Galapagos Islands would be a trip of a life time and it was. It was one of the best trips I have ever done and I feel privilaged to have been able to go. What more can I say?
Richard

PS pics on our kodak site to follow here.....

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Photos

Diego..... you big stud
Apparently he had fathered many littluns proving personality goes a long way!

Sea Turtle
he´s got his turtle head showing

Cath and a tortoise
Just to prove they are pretty big!

Comments

[angela]

Wow!
Your blog makes us so excited - we fly out there tomorrow from Guayaquil and can't wait to find some sealions to swim with. I just hope we are hald as lucky as you at seeing the animals!

[Dos cerveza por favor]

seriously, you can´t NOT see the things we saw. One thing I would say is even if you are tired or its cold or anything that makes you feel like giving it a miss... do the snorkelling every chance you get!!! Have a wicked time!!