Banos

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Banos, a small city in the shadow of a smoking volcano, has a population of 18.000. The last eruption of the volcano in 1999 caused people to remain away. Evacuation routes have been set up and regular practices are held. The thermal baths attract many. Tourists, both gringo and Ecuadorian fill the streets.

Mountains surround the valley. At night a cross stands almost 3.000 m above the town. With a Chiva Bus for $3.00 I rode with my friends up into to the cross, after nine o’clock at night to view the town spread like a glistening jewel far below. Forty people fit on the bus but we were only ten therefore had no bonfire.

Everyone enjoyed cane sugar juice and distilled cane sugar rum. Two small restaurants stood at the summit serving shish kabobs and drinks,

Luna Runtun is even higher up in the mountain. It is a proper Swiss owned Spa. I spent a whole day here being pampered: whole body exfoliation with volcano dust and salt, full body massage with fine oils, a manicure and pedicure, a fine lunch and during the afternoon a relax in the whirlpool, Jacuzzi and swimming pool.

There are many trails up into the hills. The volcano dominates the area. In the night it rumbles and sputters. Was not able to witness this. Even when going up in the Chiva bus no glow came from the mouth of the volcano. Most mornings volcanic dust covers the cars and streets.

The streets are filled with pasteboards advertising excursions: rafting, trekking, canyoning, biking, all terrain vehicle rentals, scaling mountains and rock climbing. The best part about these offers is that they all do not require previous experiences. At least that is what comes out of the mouths of some of the operators selling excitement.

Three friends of mine bought a package to climb Chimborazo. The summit at 6380m is closer to the sun than any other peak on Earth because of the bulge at the equator. The tour operator assured them that they would have no problem even thought they all said they had not had any experience. Once 4.800m had been reached by truck and there had been some discussion about the climb the guide informed them that they would, could, should not make it to the summit. The tour operator had misguided them; lied; taken their money and created grave disappointment. Barring altitude sickness, skill with an ice axe, practice with crampons and endurance at high altitude the prospect of attaining the summit of 6.380m seemed unlikely. My friends repeatedly stated they had NO experience. He repeatedly assured them they could make it … even went to the pharmacy to buy altitude sickness pills (worthless it turns out). Do NOT book tours with Amazon Excursions in Banos.

The Santa Cruz Hostel staff was helpful, kept the place reasonably clean, shared info and helped correct halting Spanish. Small problems of wet toilet floors, less than enough toilet paper, more cold than hot showers and six people using one tiny bathroom were a downer.

Four sleeps, the arrival of the truck, the departure of four in the group for the Devils Nose train ride in Riobamba, bike rides into tunnels, walks to the Virgin, bathing in the thermal waters, eating great food, wanders over the San Francisco Bridge, new friends and book exchanges all made the time in Banos enjoyable, worthwhile and unforgettable.


Good restaurants abound. The favourites became Casa Hood (highly recommended by the Book) which has a fantastic chef, Café Good across the street from Santa Cruz Hostel which has economical good tasting meals, and the Cauldron which served perfect meat in a romantic atmosphere. Tour guides try by any means to get your money. Also not to be missed is a meal inside the market out of huge pots, on small plates, while sitting with strangers at small tables amidst the bustle and shouts of the merchants flogging their vegetables and meals.

It’s a town I would visit again even though there are a lot of tourists here … it’s the mainstay of the town after all.

I have read the book, The Panama Hat Trail, so need to go to the Panama hat factory and the Straw Museum in Cuenca. Need at least a whole day for this experience. The truck is not stopping long enough in Cuenca since that has never been done before. I will be off the truck as it bombs down into Peru for a pig on a spit at a beach called Punta Sal.

Being busy on Friday I also need to do the Nariz del Diablo train ride on Sunday.

English Paul and I will spend time in Riobamba; he to watch rugby and foosball, I to catch up with blogs and shot pics in the town, watch TV and get up at 5:30 to catch the train..

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Photos

Weeds
These flowers are everywhere. In Canada I paid $3 for five seeds and then only three grew.

Best Friends
This dog followed us a long way... from one side of town to the other. We rewarded him with a piece of steak bought from the butcher at the market.

Luis
Luis saves me by warning me about the edge of the precipice . I walk down from the volcano with him. He lives in the house decorated so beautifully that I had thought of photgraphing it on the way back. Just complimented him on a great looking place.