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Published: March 5th 2023
Moving Day
Julie and I packed the car the night before in order to see how much would actually fit and which suitcases and boxes she'd need to send by transport. Well, 2023 has been off to a roaring start! Get ready for a wild ride...read on to accompany me for non-stop fun! Warning...this'll be a long one! As planned, I helped my friend and yoga partner Julie make a move to the coast. She returned from spending the holidays with family in the Pacific Northwest and had just a few days in Baños to say good-byes before we headed to the beach. I organized a farewell luncheon for her at Karina´s restaurant, Café Hood. Twenty friends bidding her a fond farewell - so nice to all be together.
Julie had been storing her stuff in my office closet, so now it was time to pull it all out and see what could be consolidated and how much we'd be able to fit in my car. She was prepared to ship the largest boxes and one big suitcase via our local UPS (Servientrega). We managed to fit everything else in and on SuzyQ (my little Suzuki hatchback). We wanted to get the car fully packed the night before since we'd be leaving early the next morning for the 10 hour drive over the Andes. Each
Rooftop Jenga
Since my little Suzuki is equipped with sturdy rails on the roof, we decided to pack plastic bags filled with lightweight, soft items. of the large double plastic bags on the roof got wrapped with string and then secured with rope. In order to make the rooftop load fit tighter we lodged a small, light carry-on in the corner over the passenger seat.
We felt pretty proud of ourselves, getting everything all neatly tied up and covered with a plastic mesh tarp (which would quickly blow to shreds as we sped along the roadway). We thought that we had carefully wedged all of the interior boxes and bundles however a few times on sharp curves and abrupt stops, a few things fell on top of CiCi perched on her tiny patch of seat. Once a heavy wooden bowl sent her leaping up front onto Julie's lap. Poor baby. Half-way to Olon, just as we went to cross the Puente de Duran, the eastern bridge approaching the massive city of Guayaquil, something shifted and all of the sudden that small suitcase was hanging down the driver´s side window. WTF? So many folks honking and pointing. As soon as I could, I found a quiet street where Julie had to come around and lift the shifty bag which
Tarp on Top
We wedged one box and one small lightweight suitcase into the rooftop array, covering it all with a mesh tarp using ample string and rope. We felt very proud of ourselves! was blocking my door! We managed to tie everything up again...or so we thought.
Fast forward an hour and a half and we are arriving at the first village on the Pacific coast, San Pablo. I pulled into a service station, Julie trotted off to the ladies' room, and as I was filling the tank with gas two long-haired, fully tatted guys on a motorbike clutching a yellow plastic bag, pulled up alongside me. Evidently the bag had gone flying off the roof, bouncing onto the highway. It ends up they had been following me for 20 minutes! 'We didn´t think you were ever going to slow down,' they exclaimed! I wanted to give them $5 in thanks, but they refused. When they pulled around the other side of the pump to buy gas, I tried again and asked if I could fill their tank. 'Déjenos hacerle una gentileza' - Allow us to do you a kindness, they responded. Sometimes stuff like this happens just to remind us that there are good people around!
Julie and I inched along the coast road the last hour of
Mermaids in Olon
Amy, Julie, me and Amy's visitor went for a sunset swim. CiCi was NOT happy about me bodysurfing. BowWoW - Mommy Danger!! the journey, fingers cross that everything would stay put up there! I had found a well-located, reasonably priced 2 bdrm rental online and booked it for her first month while she got the lay of the land and decided where she'd want to live for the next year. It was helpful to have a place to arrive after the long day's drive; somewhere to unload all her stuff. This way CiCi and I also had a place to stay for two nights before we continued up the coast.
I had reminded the apartment owner of our arrival date and even texted her that day to give her our ETA. In spite of all that, as we pulled up her mother was just starting to clean the place. It smelled musty from having been closed up for who knows how long, The disappointment was compounded by the fact that we were tired from a long day of travel. The owner´s parents were super nice and helped us unload everything. After a quick shower (ah!) we went out for a nice meal and it all seemed a little less tragic by the time we got
Tortuguita - Newly Hatched!
On an early morning beach walk with CiCi near my former cabañas at Alándaluz, I was lucky enough to pass by just after the eclosion of a nest full of eggs. back. Two unexpected upsides of the less-than stellar place were the ceiling fans in two rooms and an internet connection accessible from the hostel above.
I was eager to introduce Julie to my friend Amy who lives in Olon so the next morning we all met for a long beach walk together (CiCi leaping and bounding and having a grand time!) Afterwards, we went for brunch and ended up hanging out most of the day. We met up again at sunset on the beach for a delightful evening swim. CiCi was NOT pleased about me being in the ocean...she would barely get her tootsies wet and then run around barking crazily, apparently trying to warn me of the dangers of the waves!
The next day CiCi and I continued on up the coast, visiting old friends in Ayampe on the way to Aurelio's birthday bash Open House. Maja and Aurelio are the owners of the hotel where I worked as substitute manager part of each year for over a decade. They have built an amazing home and at the gathering it was great to
Agua Blanca Kiddie Pool
Just beside the natural sulphur lagoon where I love to swim, they have built a cement-lined shallow pool which is also filled with natural mineral water. reconnect with old friends - most of us hadn't seen each other in years! CiCi and I spent the next few nights at Tranquilidad, the beautiful lodge that Angela and Mark created from the old Santa Rosa cabins of Alándaluz. They bought my 3 cabañas almost a decade ago, as well as the 4 surrounding cabañas. They have always been incredibly generous to me, telling me that this once was and always will be my home. When I arrived this time, Mark had already returned to the US but I got to share the last couple of days with Marianne, Angela, and her friends who were visiting from the US.
CiCi and I went for a long beach walk oen morning, stirring up lots of memories for me of when I lived on that stretch of coast. While walking and beachcombing (I vowed I wouldn't pick up too many shells or stones this time!) I ran into René - a former Alándaluz waiter who was one of my English learners. He now works for an environmental foundation and showed me several of the hundreds of turtle nests they were watching and protecting along
Ladies´ Lunch
At Patacón Pisa'o in Puerto Lopez I gathered 10 fabulous women who all live in the area but claim that they only manage to get together when I am in town! that stretch of beach. Several had had eclosions earlier that morning (eggs hatching) and it was so exciting to see all the babies scurrying towards the water's edge. I put CiCi on her leash, just in case she should get interested in these tiny moving creatures. She didn't seem to notice them at all, but i was fascinated!
CiCi and I continued north to Salango and I invited my adopted family to go for pizza. Now that my car was empty, there was room to drive everyone up to Puerto López. A nice visit, catching up with them. CiCi and I stayed the next few days at Hostería Mandala, the hotel where I used to work. Spent a wonderful day with my goddaughter YiYi and her family. Alongside the Agua Blanca sulphur lagoon they've built a shallow mineral pool and on this sunny day it was the perfect way to spend the afternoon with all the kids...followed by lunch, of course! As I had done on several previous visits, I organized a ladies' lunch inviting all the women in the area that I was hoping to have a chance to see. Ten of
Santa Marianita Sunset
A stark contrast from my little studio apartment, Danielle now lives in a luxury beachfront condo with stunning views and heavenly ocean breezes! us enjoyed a wonderful meal together! So nice to touch base with old friends.
Continuing north up the coast, stopping in Puerto Cayo along the way to have brunch with fellow teacher Kelley, CiCi and I found our way to Danielle's posh new beachfront condo in Santa Marianita. She had planned a dinner party on her terrace for that evening so, after quickly freshening up, I joined a group of people I'd never met for a sunset meal. Funnily enough, Danielle had never met half of them either. There were several Canadian couples who were visiting for the winter and came along with friends of friends. Dani has found an active expat group in her new home and she's enjoying a vibrant social life. It makes me think about how boring it must have been for her during the 5 months she lived with me in Baños - I almost never go out at night these days.
The next day Danielle, Maureen (her temporary roommate) and I drove the 15 minutes to the bustling city of Manta. CiCi hung out in the elegant apartment
CiCi on the Terrace
CiCi enjoyed our coastal visit - running on the beach, visiting with friends old and new, being pampered and spoiled and especially riding in the car! so that I'd be free to go for a chiropractic adjustment and acupuncture treatment (thanks Larry!). After my treatment I met the girls at the huge new shopping center, Mall del Pacífico where we did some Supermaxi grocery shopping (lots of hard-to-find imported products) and then went out for lunch. It's always a bit of a culture shock for me to find myself in a crowded mall with well-dressed wealthy locals. My day-to-day life in Baños is much more casual and low-key...and I prefer it that way!
During the 10 days that we travelled up the coast, CiCi was an excellent travel companion. She always loves going in the car, although after the cramped ride on the first day with unexpected falling objects she was at times hesitant to 'load up'. Once we got the car emptied and she again had her full seat to stretch out on and enjoy views from both windows, the joy of car-riding quickly returned. She is very well-behaved at restaurants - I put her on a longer leash and tuck the handle under my chair leg. She knows not to beg and generally finds a spot to
Mindalae Museum
In between visits to the US Embassy, Toni and I enjoyed a visit to my favorite ethnographic museum. Handicrafts and cultural objects from vaqrious regions of the country. settle at my feet. She's a wonderful traveller and I look forward to many more adventures with my four-legged sidekick!
I had barely a week to catch my breath before my next visitor arrived. Toni is a former colleague - the choir director from the Atlanta International School. We've kept in contact and gotten to know each other better during our weekly online French lessons. This year we decided to spend our birthdays together. She's travelled a lot, but had never been to Ecuador. She gave me free rein (or is it free reign?) to plan our two-week itinerary. She sent me her flight info via email, but alas - the airline changed the date and I didn't read the new info carefully enough so she arrived the evening of Feb 6th and I was planning to meet her on the 7th! I called the hostel where we were booked and the manager, my friend Darwin, readied her room for that evening.
The next morning I shuffled plans to get on the road to Quito as early as possible. CiCi's dogsitters (Karl's parents who visit Baños
Agave Gardens on the Equator
We visited Quitsato's Solar Clock located directly on the equatorial line. There is a fabulous museum and we were lucky enough to tour with the founder, a man I had met more than a decade before while I was managing the hotel. from England every year) were able to come over a bit sooner and off I went. Fortunately, I have the habit of always packing for a journey the day before I'm set to leave. On the drive up to Quito I got a call, Toni crying as she passed the phone to the Darwin. She'd been robbed while walking around the neighborhood near the hostel using a well-known ruse where they fling some gross substance on you (Toni thought it was bird poop) and then kindly offer to help you clean up as they pick your pockets. Toni lost her passport, driver's license, several debit and credit cards and about $80.
Darwin walked the streets with her to help her find where it had happened, they looked in trash cans to see if the thieves had dumped anything, and then he took her to the police station to file a report. The Police took her to the downtown station and by then Toni had calmed enough to actually appreciate the colonial architecture on the main plaza. Fortunately, Toni speaks a fair bit of Spanish (she was married to a Cuban) but she claims
Pantaví Museart Hotel
I had stayed here once before, but this time I really explored and enjoyed all of the artwork. And a special treat, the artist was there, I enjoyed meeting Camilo. scroll to the end for more pics of his amazing art! she forgot everything in the stress of the moment. When I arrived in Quito we looked online to download the required documents for a passport replacement and then we had a taxi drive us around to help us find places to replace her phone charger and to get the official 2x2 photos needed.
Bright and early the next morning we were at the Embassy where they told her she'd need to send them an email to make an appointment -- they said that even though they only had appointments available two months out, they would respond squeezing her in immediately. While waiting for the email response that they promised her (and she never got) we visited a small ethnographic museum and had lunch. We then returned to the embassy, all completed documents in hand, determined not to leave until she had a passport in hand. We were permitted to talk to a lady via a wall phone who claims she never received the email. She finally let Toni in (whew) and after a couple of hours and $165 in cash, she had a (purple) replacement passport in hand. She's required to obtain a
Hacienda Zuleta
One of the oldest haciendas in Ecuador, it now operates as a super high-end hotel which is managed by the grandsons of former president Galo Plaza. permanent passport within a year.
After our day of 'Embassy Tourism' we headed north, stopping at a fabulous new Equator Museum. Years before I had met the founder of Quitsato (solar clock straddling the equatorial line) and it was Cristobal himself who gave us a fabulous tour. We especially enjoyed the agave gardens alongside the monument and sundial. Just beyond there we stopped in Cayambe and sat in the town square people-watching as we snacked on the town's traditional bizcochos con queso de hoja. Actually, Toni mostly fed the street dogs with her biscuits and cheese. It broke her heart to see so many hungry pooches wandering around and everywhere we went she was compelled to feed stray dogs. I even stopped by the side of the road numerous times so she could feed a skinny pup. We took a quick cruise through the Plaza de Ponchos in Otavalo, opting not to return to this famous handicraft market on its busiest day, Saturday.
We arranged to meet my old friend Roger at the Tree of Life restaurant in Urcuquí and just before dusk we finally arrived
Sumptuous Tub
The junior suite ($520 per person per nite) boasts an exquisite bathroom and full luxury accommodations! at our place of lodging in nearby Tumbabiro. Hotel Museart Pantaví is an old hacienda turned, remodeled and turned into a gorgeous art gallery - virtually all of the art created by one man, Camilo Andrade. To our good fortune the owner/artist was there while we were and I had the pleasure of chatting with him several times. We thoroughly enjoyed our luxurious lodgings complete with breakfast and dinner for $70 per person per night. A bit pricey for my budget but Toni generously agreed to help pay my lodging, reminding me that what we spent during a whole week in Ecuador she would easily spend in one day in New York City!
The following day we visited one of the oldest homesteads in Ecuador. Hacienda Zuleta has been owned by the family of former president Galo Plaza since the early 1900's, however one of the earliest stone doorway lintels is marked with the year 1661. I have always wanted to visit this place and thanks to Toni we were able to splurge for the ridiculously expensive tour and lunch package. Our private guide took us around for over two hours, letting us
Mindo Mariposario
The butterfly gardens never fail to delight. They have done some changes and improvements since I was last there. Glad Cheryl could join us on this tourist jaunt! peek into the private rooms of the family and the super-luxurious presidential suites. It is a place of living history and now also houses a cheese factory, which we also got to see. Cattle owners from nearby indigenous communities deliver fresh milk daily, bringing it by horse, mule and truck. This extravagant day was my birthday gift!
We continued our travels to the rainforest of Northwest Pichincha, stopping to visit the Pululahua Crater along the way. This collapsed caldera one of the only inhabited crater in the world. Near the town of Nanegalito, my friend Cheryl has built a beautiful guesthouse, designed to host Chautauqua self-improvement conferences. She rented us the whole huge house, complete with kitchen for $100 per night. Cheryl has been working a lot in the US so we haven't been able to cross paths in at least six years. I was so grateful that she had some free time while we were there, and I took a down day to just relax while she took Toni hiking to the waterfall and then over to the Tulipe Museum (which I've visited numerous times). The day after that we all went
Emily's New Doll
En route to Baños we stopped at my goddaughter's to deliver some clothing and this doll from Frozen which was donated by my eye doctor's daughter, Emma, for me to gift to a child who didn't get a doll at Xmas. to Mindo where we visited the Butterfly Park (Mariposario) and took the Quetzal Chocolate Tour (great restaurant there too!)
Farewell to Cheryl and our longest drive (5 hours) back to Baños. We stopped on the way for lunch, and then again in Latacunga where one of my goddaughters lives with her husband, her in-laws and her three children. I had been collecting donations of clothing and assorted things to bring to her but the icing on the cake was the Elsa doll that was given to me by Emma, my ophthalmologist's nine year-old daughter, Emma. She asked if I would give it to a little girl who maybe hadn't gotten so many gifts for Christmas. The look on six year-old Emily's face says it all.
I planned a few days at my house in the middle of Toni's itinerary so we could spend my birthday (and early celebration of hers) with a dinner among friends. First we explored rivers and ravines around Baños. We took a hike with CiCi, crossing the El Sauce hanging bridge. It was then that I discovered that Toni's not fond of
Birthday Cake
A wonderful gathering of friends...there ended up being only 8 of us due to inclement weather, but that was just perfect. Delery's cake was divine!!! heights. I had CiCi's leash around my waist and Toni held onto it as she courageously made her way across! The afternoon of the birthday dinner it started pouring down rain. Delery had been making a very special cake for me, but she lives 45 minutes east toward the jungle and with the risk of mudslides she feared making the trip to Baños. She was devastated that we wouldn't have the cake for the celebration, so we found a solution. Her worker drove the cake up to the bus stop in Rio Negro, the town nearest to them. My trusted taxi driver, Adolfo, was just getting back from a trip to the jungle with some tourists I'd recommended him to. He turned right around and drove back down to collect my cake. He delivered it to the restaurant just as we had begun dinner. I insisted he come back for dessert and have a piece of cake with us, and I sent along another piece for his family.
Since Delery and her hubby are gluten free, she made the cake with coconut flour, almond flour, carrots, pineapple and cream cheese icing. Absolutely delicious!!
Drowning in Stamps!
In the past few months I've spent dozens of hours classifying and organizing stamps. Thanks Allison for helping me that day! At the dinner were a few of my friends who hadn't met one another before, so that was fun. I always enjoy connecting people!! The next day we met up with Steve (my stamp buddy, lighting the birthday candles in the photo). He had put together a packet of valuable stamps for Toni to mail to his son back in the states. He is going to help me try to sell them on e-Bay but they have to be mailed out within 48 hours of sale, so his son will be responsible for that end of the deal. I have no idea how all of this works, so I am extremely grateful to Steve for helping me try to monetize some of my collection. I invited him along to join me and Toni at Café del Cielo up in the hills above town...a breathtaking drive with beautiful views. A wonderful time was had by all!!
Next day Toni and I headed down towards the jungle, stopping to visit a number of waterfalls along the way. We also visited my friend Patrick's glamping site across the river on the way to the Amazon Basin.
Lace Waterfall
Well, that's the name I gave it. One of my faves: it gently tinkles down the rock face in such a delicate way. We arrived at El Jardín in Puyo and Toni set off on a long walk along the riverfront malecón. I enjoyed the wooden hot tubs in the garden. Always delicious food at El Jardín and we had a package deal that included our dinner and breakfast. The following day we drove deeper into the jungle and enjoyed lunch at El Jardín in Misahuallí after a walk through their extensive gardens. Technically, only overnight guests of the hotel are permitted in the gardens, but since I'd been there a couple of years earlier for Shana's bday, I knew my way around and guided us along the paths. Amazing flora - things you can't see anywhere else!
We continued on into the town of Misahuallí and even as we were passing Puerto Napo I realized that this was NOT going to be a peaceful place to spend the Carnaval holiday. In Ecuador Carnaval is celebrated with wild antics - throwing water and eggs and colored flour at people; spray foam and loud music and ridiculous shenanigans! It was very HOT and sunny and we were relieved to arrive at our air-conditioned room in Banana Lodge.
Jungle Flora
A few days in the jungle. A quick taste of the Amazon for Toni. Alas, the skeeters took a quick taste of her. I managed to avoid getting eaten alive this time! Toni went out for a sunset walk and I warned her that the mosquitoes were likely to eat her alive! That night we heard music blaring from across the river, but with our ear plugs in we both managed to sleep well.
The next morning we took a walk along the river, starting at the peaceful wooded part, seeing a few monkeys playing in the trees. At the widest part of the beach near town a huge stage was set up and the giant speakers were being tested. The celebration was kicking into gear. There were hundreds of food stalls and thousands of cases of beer. It was going to be a HUGE bash and we would do our best to avoid it! We bought some food to enjoy later in our air-conditioned haven and laid low for much of our stay, keeping away from the crowds and wild revelers!
Beautiful drive back up to Quito along the eastern slopes of the Andes. Breathtaking waterfalls in the distance and even a short spate of hail as we crossed over the highest pass near Papallacta. We arrived
Painted Nave
At La Basílica del Voto Nacional en el Centro Histórico de Quito. I adore these floor tiles!! at our Quito hostel in time to meet up with Jan, another friend from the US who had come into town. Alas, he had eaten something rotten for lunch and was plagued with food poisoning. I gave him some of my Tylenol and when Toni and I went back out for supper, I got him some Pedialyte (oral rehydration solution). Fortunately, he felt much better by morning and the three of us enjoyed an excursion to the old town. Jan had been there many times (starting as early as the 1970's) but I was able to show him some things he had never seen before. He's a history buff and I learned a lot from him too!
We were all awed by the lower sanctuary of the main cathedral (La Basilica del Voto Nacional). Most people only go to the upper parts and climb the towers, but because of Toni's aversion to heights we decided to skip that tour. We wandered the cobbled old town streets, admiring the colonial architecture and decorative balconies as we continued down to the Plaza Grande. The main plaza, like most all Latin American town squares, has a
La Ronda
Quito's oldest neighborhood - a stroll through history. church, a government building, a major bank, and the police station that Toni had briefly visited on her first day in Quito. We took a long stroll to La Ronda (one of the oldest streets in the historic center) and then made our way back to Plaza San Francisco. There we ducked into the elegant Casa Gangotena Hotel for a drink in their lush courtyard. I love how the light, flower-filled space contrasts so starkly with the narrow grey-cobbled streets filled with bustling pedestrians.
We were on a bit of a time frame as we had scheduled a lunch with Jean at 1:00 pm. Just as we were about to leave Casa Gangotena, the skies opened up in a gushing downpour. We waited a few moments to let it pass and I texted Jean to warn her we'd be running late. It eased up somewhat and we scurried the few blocks to the café, hugging the sides of buildings to take advantage of the overhangs. Even with an umbrella and rain jackets, we were soaked to the skin by the time we arrived. Jean had secured us a table in the courtyard right
Hotel Gangotena
Jan and Toni and I took a pause from the hustle-bustle of the crowded cobbled streets in Quito's old town. It began to pour down rain while we were in this courtyard. beside a talented saxophone player. He was very good, but it made conversation difficult. While Jan and Toni chatted, I caught up with Jean, whom I hadn't seen in almost a year. She was still recovering from a serious health scare, so I was happy to see her out and about and looking much better.
I was bushed from so much walking at high altitude, but Toni and Jan were game to keep exploring the churches and plazas we hadn't had time for. So I taxied back to the hostal and when they got back we all went out for an elegant dinner...Toni's last evening. I had arranged for a taxi to take her to the airport for her midnight flight - at the best of times I prefer not to drive at night and with my cataract surgery scheduled for the following week, I knew I definitely shouldn't try to navigate in the dark! I bid farewell to Jan the next day as I left for my pre-surgical doctor appointments: blood and urine tests, eye exams & measurement for a lens that would replace the cataract, the cardiologist to give me clearance
Just Off the Night Bus
Freddy and family had just arrived and we took a stroll around the Mariscal District at daybreak before hopping in the car to continue on to Baños. for anesthesia and a long overdue gynecologist appt. When in Quito I catch up on medical exams!
Remember the cute family pictured in the kiddie pool earlier in this blog entry? The oldest daughter, Yibely, just turned 15 and as her godmother it was up to me to offer a gift. I told her I didn't want to pay for a fluffy pink dress she'd wear only once, or a party with loud music and alcohol. The gift I offered her was for he whole family to come visit me in Baños for a few days and it ended up this would be the perfect time (what am I crazy? no rest between travels and surgery?!) They took the night bus up from the coast (10 hours) and then a taxi to my hostel. None of them had ever been to Quito - this was a totally new experience! We wandered around the neighborhood a bit before loading up in my car for another three hour drive back to Baños.
We stopped for fried chicken on the way home and, if I didn't realize
Decorate Your Own Cake
YiYi was given all the goods - 3 cake layers, icing in various colors, jam, caramel, candies, sprinkles...the works! We all had fun helping her decorate it. A bargain at $10 it before I certainly knew it now...this family can EAT!! Over the next few days we shared lots of great meals, at restaurants and at my house. How does she keep them all in food?? Even the little ones pack it away! Check out all the foodie fotos in this section! Once again, I was glad that I had room in my house for everyone to stay comfortably. In their little 2 bdrm house on the coast, the kids all share one bedroom. At my place Mercedes and Freddy and the baby, Fiorella stayed in the rental apartment, Frixon and Danna (13 and 11 years old - both are really small for their age) shared the upstairs bedroom and loved looking thru my bookshelves and drawing at the big desk with colored pencils and markers. My fridge is now covered with kid art! For the first time in her life, 15 y/o Yiyi had a room and a bathroom all to herself. I gave her the little bed in the back office and she was thrilled to have her very own space. Having said that, the kids were always in each others' rooms - they're very close and so sweet
La Casa del Arbol
Linda familia. My beautiful goddaughter Yibely and her family. For those 'in the know, this is where the famous swing at the end of the world photograph was shot. with one another.
I planned a lot of fun activities. In honor of Yibely's birthday (nicknames a re Yiyi - pronounced Gigi - and Belly) we went to the Fábrica Mágica de Chocolate. I had done a reconnaissance visit and finding this kitschy place waayyy overpriced, discovered that they charged only $10 for the "decorate your own cake" experience. This was a way for everyone to have a good time! They brought out 3 layers of cake, jam, caramel, two colors of icing in squeezy tubes, sprinkles, candies, you name it. We all had a great time helping Yiyi assemble, decorate, and eat her cake! And they all loved the photo ops galore! One afternoon the kids baubled with me...Yiyi and Danna decorated picture frames and Frixon made a treasure box. Everyone had fun looking thru all the bauble goodies I have. Frixon really wanted to include a miniature plastic pistol, and we glued it on with fish and butterflies shooting out of to lessen the violence factor!
After walking CiCi up the hill and checking out the mineral bath complex from above, we spent the
Fresh Trout
This family can eat!! We all packed away our huge meals of fried fish, rice, lentils, fries, salad, plantains. CiCi got the fish heads...yum! next morning in the hot springs. Another day included a visit to the waterfalls, along with two tarabita cable car rides across the river. We went up to the Casa del Arbol to play on the Swing at the End of the World, the playground equipment and the mini-zipline. The restaurant where you catch your own trout for lunch was a big hit. We sat at the counter ledge overlooking the river to eat our freshly fried fish. For our last meal in Baños Shana and Maricarmen joined us for cheese fondue at Swiss Bistro - a yummy new experience for them all...interactive eating!
Since they were headed out on the night bus, we went up to Quito early to purchase their tickets in advance. Then we continued north to the IntiÑan museum at the equator line. This is a fun museum where you try to balance an egg on a nail and look at how the water runs down the drain in the opposite direction on either side of the equator. Dinner was a double-sized mixed grill parrillada, filling everybody's belly with meat so they would sleep soundly on the night bus!
Cheese Fondue
A fun and yummy way to share a meal ... first time for these gals, my fellow cheese-lovers. A delicious time was had by all! I had a taxi waiting for them at the hostel since it was already dark and they had to get to the bus terminal in the south of the city. After we all hugged good-bye, I tumbled into bed, exhausted. My eye surgery was scheduled for the very next day!
All went well with the surgery. I realized it was 4 years earlier, almost to the day, that I'd had the cataract removed from my right eye. The same ophthalmologist performed the surgery and I didn't feel nervous at all, especially since she's now a friend! For my first surgery I was given an anesthetic that pretty much knocked me out. I woke up and they were done. This time it was a very light relaxant. I was actually aware of the needle anaesthetizing my eyeball, but it didn't freak me out. I was awake and could even talk during the entire surgery. I saw bright lights and brilliant colors, rippling orange and green and blue - kind of like the curtains of the Aurora Borealis. My doctor says I should try to draw what I remember seeing! It was very cool and
Fiorella Needs Help
Of course everyone had to help Fiorella with the free dessert that came with her kid meal. not at all scary or uncomfortable.
My friend Debbie came to pick me up from the clinic and I've been staying at her house for six days now. The day after the surgery she drove me down to the valley for a follow-up visit. The very first day my vision was better than 20/20 !!! I taught with Debbie's husband Dean at the American School back in 1988 and have remained close to them, my American family in Quito - watching their three daughters grow up and move away. Dean was here my first evening after surgery, but then he left on a business trip so Debbie and I have been enjoying some nice girl time. She's an amazing cook, so we've been eating really well. We've played Scrabble, watched a movie and chatted away! There is a little guest house on the property so I've had my own space to prepare this blog over the past few days. I am so grateful for the love and generosity I've received during my recovery! Tomorrow, back to Baños.
Please be sure to scroll to the end and
Pastaza River
View from the trout place - we sat all along a counter facing out over the river. Lentil Stew with a View (menestra en español) hit next to see all of the pics. If you love the Museart mosaics, on my facebook page there is an album of 20 more pics from Pantaví. Thanks for reading and leave me a comment if you want!
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Kathleen Comerci
non-member comment
So much fun!
Hi Jill! Really enjoyed reading about your colorful adventures!