Blogs from Tierradentro, Colombia, South America

In some civilisations, life was simply a preparation for the afterlife. To them death was the ultimate goal, more important than life itself. These civilisations built magnificent burial chambers all over their kingdoms. A sort of departure lounge to the heavens. Just think of the ancient pyramids in Egypt or the even older Celtic tombs at Newgrange in Co. Meath, Ireland. Visiting the funeral sites of Tierradentro and San Agustin in south west Colombia, I was constantly reminded of similarities to Newgrange. Although built by a unknown people on the far side of the world about 4,000 years later, I couldn´t help thinking that maybe we had come across some Colombian Celts! Well the Irish do love to travel! A rough half-day bus ride took us from the warmth of Popayan through mountain villages where the ... read more

The distance from San Agustin to San Andres is somewhere in the region of 100km as the cuervo flies which, in this part of the world, meant a journey in three parts involving 5.5 hours of travel time. First up was a whiz to Pitalito, requiring a mere hour in a camioneta (essentially a small Chevy pick-up with a covered back and two parallel benches). I sat in the back and was rewarded with a pleasant breeze, mountain views, and no fellow passengers. Pitalito bus station was like the others I've been to in Colombia - full of touts on the prowl for customers, but who will also point you in the direction of the right company if your destination isn't covered by their own. The next leg, to La Plata, was in another camioneta, this ... read more

From San Agustin there is a loop road that leads to Tierradentro, another place with archealogical sites, the only known underground tombs in South America. This trip was another experience, thank goodness for Patty who could speak spanish and barttered our way there. Sometimes we were in and out of buses, not knowing whether we were in or not as she was busy bartering away, if it didn´t suit her or the price was not to her liking she yelled for us to all get out, it was quite hilarious. We left from San Agustin to Pitalito in a ford king cab and had to wait for the next big bus to Garzon and then La plater. Twice the transport had to stop and everyone off so that the Soldiers could check for bad people. Paul ... read more