Columbia (Part 1)

---

I arrive in Maicao, Columbia, just beyond the border with Venezuela and catch one of the many available coaches heading towards Santa Marta located on the northern coast of Columbia. The journey begins when a member of the security forces takes a video of all those seated on the bus - I am told this is so that they know who is on the bus should it be hijacked by rebels! The only time I encountered this was in Bolivia where they recorded your faces before the journey should the coach disappear over a cliff (which apparently is not an uncommon event). Fortunately, the footage isn't required and I arrive into Santa Marta safely.

Santa Marta is ok, containing all the facilities that you would expect in a small town but lacking any distinctive features. My reason for staying in Santa Marta is to arrange a hike to Ciudad Perdida - literally 'The Lost City'. Ciudad Perdida is hidden deep in thick forest amid rugged mountains, far from any (modern) settlements and without access roads. The only way to access the site is a gruelling 5 day hike. I opt to book the hike with Turcol - being the original and best tour operator. It is slightly more expensive than others but includes full coverage if anything should go wrong on the hike, which is a distinct possibility. I am fortunate to find myself in a good group of people - 2 from Hong Kong, 2 French, 1 U.S., 1 Canadian, 1 Gibralter, 2 Columbian and 1 Australian.

We realise what is in front of us within the first hour of the hike - the humidity is intense and we are all drenched from sweat. Despite this, the hike itself is very managable and we often complete a days hike by lunchtime; this is fortunate as it rains every day at around 2pm. The views are outstanding and improve the further along the trek we go, where the unfortunate scars of deforestations from cattle ranching become less evident. We pass many indegenous people along the way who are dressed in traditional white clothing. We are told that around 16,000 indegenous people still live in the area and are largely uninfluenced by western ways. However, I fear that those living close to the hiking route may succumb to some western intrusion, particualrly as they have are inquisitive of our presence.

We cross inumerable creek and river crossings, often waist high deep. These do not present a major problem - they are often a welcome relief from the humidity - but the water does wash away the mosquito repellent, which results in a not insubstantial 155 mosquito bites below my calfs by the end of the trek! I almost become a cropper when negotiating a steep hillside between two river crossings when - at around 40 metres above rocks - part of the path gives way after being saturated from the previous days rainfall. Fortunately, one foot becomes trapped in a small tree branch otherwise I do not want to think what would have happended to me. This fortunate saviour is placed into perspective when we here of an Argentinian in an earlier group who had dived into a merky river only to discover it was only a foot deep. We here that he had snapped two vertebrates and had been laid motionless on a table at one of the camps for nearly two days before a helicopter arrived to pick him up. Apparently the delay was due to investigations into whether he had travel insurance which he fortunately had. If he had not, he would likely have been taken by two indegenous porters back to the base village in a hammock - this being the common form of rescue for those who have taken the risk of pursuing a dangerous hike without insurance.

I had seen only limited photographs of Ciudad Perdida in Santa Marta and therefore wasnt expecting any extensive ruins. However, I am pleasantly surprised to discover an extensive and well preserved city, containing some 150 stone terraces that once served as foundations for the houses. Ciudad Perdida is said to be one of the most important urban, political and economic centres of the Tayrona period and is believed to have been founded around 800 A.D., some 650 years earlier than Machu Picchu. It lies along the northern slope of the Sierra Mountain and constructed on terraces at different levels with water distribution channels and contention walls up to twelve metres high to support different paths crossing the city. It was apprently abandoned during the Spanish conquest and remained undiscovered in the tropical forest for 400 years until in 1972 a group of local treasure looters found a series of stone steps rising up the mountainside and followed them to the abandoned city. When gold figurines and ceramic urns from the city began to appear in the local black market, authorities revealed the site in 1975.

Originally the centre of Cuidad Perdida was cleared of trees, before being reclaimed by the jungle. Today the city is quite overgrown, which gives it a somewhat mysterious air. However, we are not alone and note the presence of the army, which we engage in a competition of press ups! Their presence owes to a history of kidnapping in the area as a result of the Colombian Civil War between the Colombian National Army, right-wing paramilitary groups and left-wing guerrilla groups like National Liberation Army (ELN) and Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC). On September 15, 2003, ELN kidnapped 8 foreign tourists that were visiting Ciudad Perdida, demanding government investigation of human rights abuses in exchange for their hostages. They were subsequently released and fortunately no other kidnappings have taken place since and which is now an apparently safe area.

We are told by our guide that an even larger lost city lies further into the jungle which the Government is aware of but is unwilling to reveal its location for two reasons. Firstly, it cannot afford the cost of repairing it to a standard fit for tourists and, secondly - and more importantly - the indegenous tribes do not want it to be revealed at present. It is an exciting prospect that another lost city lies undiscovered for lay people like I and would require an even extensive jungle trek - definitely one to watch out for.

After the trek, I spend a few nights relaxing at The Dreamer Hostel in Santa Marta before heading to the nearby fishing village of Taganga. It is still a fishing village but is now also relaint upon the tourist scene and appears a magnet to backpackers. A reasons for my visit to Taganga is also to visit an English friend who lives here. It was that friend and others from the Lost City trek that we have a great night out consuming a little too much rum but having a great time nevertheless parting until the early hours. I stay on for a few more day (mainly to recover!) and see some secluded beaches which many tourists dont visit. It is a welcome relief after the Ciudad Perdida trek and then head off to Cartagena.

I had read that Cartagena is the architectural gem of South America and am certainly impressed by the well preserved and extensive colonial architecture, particualrly in the old city. Founded in 1533, Cartagena was used as the main Spanish port for the treasure plundered from the indegenous people before it was shipped to Spain. As such it was tempting taregt for pirates and suffered five attacks in the 16th century, the best known of which was that led by Francis Drake in 1586. In response to pirate attacks, the Spanish decided to make Cartagena an impregnable port and constructed elaborate walls encircling the town which remain largely intact today. The walls wrap around a large old centre which is a living museum of 16th and 17th century Spanish architecture with narrow winding streets, churches, plazas and large mansions. Its attraction, however, has resulted in the inlux of touist orientated uses which degrade the authenticity of the town. It is probable that these uses have helped secure the future of the buildings but the predominance of resturants, jewellery shops, travel agencies etc dampens the experience much alike that of Cuzco. It is often a fine balance between preservation and tourism; Cartagena appears to be a victim of its own success. After only two days in Cartagena - there is very little else to do other than admire the architecture - I fly to Bogota for a mere 106,000 pesos (equivalent to around 38 pound!) where I will be staying with a friend for a couple of weeks. Read my next blog for more.

---