Smell that coffee

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Our journey in to the coffee region was a long one, but well worth the trip. We were on the overnight from Bogota, this time we had a blanket that Deb had bought to keep us warm and it definitely did the job. The bus went over a mountain range of the Andes so it was very much a slow paced bus. Up an then down, and the rising sun on the way down also brought the towns of the coffee region below in to view, in Armenia we caught the colectivo bus to Salento. Salento is a much smaller town than the other coffee towns of Armenia and Manizales so we decided on Salento. It is a nice attractive town, very small but set in lush green and there is a lookout at the top of the main street. The lookout has a great view of the Valle de Cocora. The clouds seem very low and almost giving a cloud forest impression.
The town has some cool bars different to those we have seen elsewhere. They are full of billiard tables and men wearing the traditional ponchos. Salento is renowned for its trout and the large pieces of plantain that accompany the meal. I had to try and it was nice enough, the plantain is to flat for my liking. I prefer it a littler smaller in size but thicker. I finally got the chance to try the "Bangeja Paisa" it was lovely. Similar to the Feiojada in Brazil but better. It was a mix of sausage, red beans, rice, fried banana, fried egg, fried salt pork and avocado. Definitely will be looking out for that again. Also a couple of new beers to tick off my list the Costena and Poker. I like the Poker slogan "with Poker you always win" (obviously in Spanish). And also finally got to try tamal which was a chicken leg and vegetables in maize dough, wrapped in banana leaves and steamed and served with rice mmmm. The waist is beginning to expand!
The Posada we are staying in is nice and close to the square. Our only complaint is that the place is empty and she managed to give us the smallest room! While we walk past the big empty ones on the way to ours every time we come home. Neither of us have the gaul to ask for a move. Our second day we were up early and went to the Valle de Cocora. It was a fabulous day. To get there they pile as many people as the can in the back of a jeep. Or standing on the back of the jeep in my case. We hired some horses and went up to La Montana, looking back now that was a good decision as this was the uphill part. The scenery was amazing. There are wax palms interspaced all over the mountains and they really do look cool. It was quite cloudy on the way up but still gave great views. From La Montana we headed to Acaime along a muddy track. I think Deb wasn´t enjoying this bit but it wasn´t too far. Acaime was literally just a couple of houses. It is at about 2800m and was quite cool. Here there were so many hummingbirds zipping around here and there, getting water etc etc. There were quite a few different types and we had a great time just watching them to and fro. It really made the walk up worthwhile. On leaving we headed along the river back to our starting point for the jeep return. It was a great day and one I will always remember. We were quite exhausted so just took it easy on the Saturday night. Obviously being in the Zona Cafeteria we had to go in search of the coffee. We decided to go the the Parque del Cafe. I had heard that it is a little touristy but it ended up just what we were looking for. We caught a couple of buses and ended up at the park entrance near Montenegro and it gave a great view to the flats below. We passed a massive banana plantation on the way and we could feel the humidity in the park. We walked down through the coffee plants, they were very different to what I had expected and plenty of different varieties, the path follows a theme and shows different parts in the process of coffee making. It really was nicely laid out, there were plenty of birds around also. At the bottom of the park is the touristy part. Rides and a train etc etc but all pretty tame and not too tacky, they fit it in well nicely into the park. We had a feed and the loveliest macadamia ice-creams. I´d say the lady in the shop was sick of us. I went in and got one, then Deb realised how good they were and went in and got one. Then a little later on we were back again for seconds.
We saw a show which really was better than we had expected, there was dancers dressed in traditional clothing of the coffee workers and it really was a very good show, we caught the teleferico back to the entrance and marvelled in the view again. The bus to Armenia was packed and I had a good laugh as I was squashed in and I saw a young boy who kept falling asleep as he sat next to the driver and the driver had to keep budging him off his arm as the tried to steer. We watched the Miss Universe competition and of course Venezuela had to win. Exhausted leaving Salento but really very happy with the stay, looking forward to a bit of warmth in Cali now. Our visas are up in a week we will have to do it quick in the South, Colombia is that good we should have asked for more time!

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Comments

[ivan]

Get an extension in your Passport
If you want to stay longer. It is easy. You just got to go to a DAS office in any major city. i suposse you will have to pay a fee and that's it. I will be doing that next week. Love it here and want to spend more time. good travels!