La Bella Cartagena

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In June of 2010, an amazing opportunity came about where I was able to head south to Cartagena, Colombia for a weekend of tropical paradise. I had been to Bogota several times but had always yearned to explore the coast of Colombia, which neighbors my familial country of Venezuela.

It was a weekend business trip for my parents, but for me, a short vacation. So I arrived ready to experience a different side of the country and get a taste for the warmth, away from the mountains and into the sun.

For those who have been, you can agree that its a breath-taking window into old Spain with its colonial archquitecture and plazas. But the colors and touches of modern day trends have been added to the mix. Its pulsating and beautiful, it reminds me of Old San Juan, Puerto Rico.

I arrived at my hotel, the beautiful Sofitel Santa Clara: an old medieval convent turned luxury hotel with lush gardens surrounding an open courtyard. Inside, the walls were old stone or painted brightly. I was quickly greeted by the staff and led to my room which was a two story loft with old wooden pieces of furniture, dim lighting, and fresh fruit on every table. Being summer, I grabbed some shorts and decided to walk the old streets within the wall. (The historic city is built within old stone walls that stretch over two miles).

The city is easy to walk as everything is relatively near, only thing is most streets appear the same with their colonial archways, wooden balconies, and draping flowers...its easy to get lost! And of course, the vendors are out to sell! So if you have a weakness for spending, you'll probably fall for every item as they swindle you into purchasing wooden spoons, silver necklaces, shell bracelets, and other crafts you soon realize you really didnt need. Walking is a must however! Its the only way to get a true feel for the culture and people that have made this coastal town such a rich mecca of flavor.

As I stopped in several boutique stores along Calle Santo Domingo and Calle San Juan de Dios I was impressed with the quality of fabrics and leathers used in the clothing and shoes. Even women's bathing suits are very well made and worth buying since they're made of real lycra. Walking in the heat felt like home in South Florida but one service we DONT get is freshly made fruit salads on the street. This beautiful black women dressed in the most extravagant colors sold me a bowl of fresh fruit which she cleaned and served from the head basket off her head! Why hadnt I thought of that as a good business in South Beach?! And if you're not in the mood for pure fruit, these women sell "nísperos", a kiwi-shaped fruit with the texture of pear and the taste of chocolate, caramelized sugar, and blackberry. Wow!

After walking the streets I joined my parents and their group of friends and colleagues for a fancy dinner at "Vera", the leading fashion designer Silvia Tcherassi's hotel "Casa Tcherassi Hotel and Spa". We took a quick tour of the hotel grounds, which are surrounded by an outdoor pool and bar yet designed with a true spa "feel" in the air. Here we enjoyed an array of carpachio, pastas and seafood while seated in the gardens of the boutique hotel overlooking a lit waterfall. The wine menu was as extensive as most steakhouses, yet when calculated to US dollars the total was much more easy on the eyes!

Now at night, the streets had a different vibe completely. It was still scorching hot and the humidity made it nearly impossible to take pictures, but people were OUT! Everywhere. The plazas were filled with people seated at round tables eating, drinking, smoking, laughing. There were locals dressed in costumes and acting out roles of different characters: cowboys, mimes, salsa dancers. There was music and people danced as they sweat off their wine. The stores and churches were open for weddings to take place. We smiled as couples rode through the cobble stoned streets in horse drawn carriages with the sign "Just Married" on the back. I loved the Caribbean feel that the night brought to this city.

The following day we all met for breakfast before touring more of the walled-in city. Breakfast in Colombia is NOT the typical continental spread. Nope, its a feast! As I entered the dining room, an array of bread rolls including pan de bono caught my eye. Not to mention the choice of fresh fruits and juices waiting to be served. And this was only a warm-up! Once you cleared your plate from the lighter platter, you were brought a menu for omelettes and warm arepas filled with cheese, grated meat, black beans, and cold cuts. And sit tight because you havent finished your coffee yet! Eating is also an important ritual, so a meal lasts a while as everyone at the table talks over their coffee and after meal snacks. We didnt finish until close to noon! Now I had to digest so I took a little walk around the courtyard of the hotel only to find the much talked about wild tucans that inhabit the gardens. And no, they're not THAT wild...they just want attention (or maybe my food) so they were not scared to come right up to me. Some birds even joined some guests for breakfast at their table, waiting for a crumb to drop.

Our second day was joined by rain so we walked the old Spanish streets while ducking under the store awnings to escape the downpour. The rain was a dangerous bargain because it caused to me seek shelter in a shoe store called "Velez" for over an hour. I left my refuge with a new pair of shoes and three leather belts. Completely unnecessary! I also took advantage that the streets were empty and ducked into several old forts and convents to explore their history. One being the "Palacio de la Inquisición" which after a guided tour, offered much history of Cartagena during the Spanish Inquisition. Many were tortured, jailed and executed here.

During our walk, we stopped in several plazas looking for a good dining spot. In the center of Plaza Santo Domingo stood the famous statue of "Gertrudis", sculpted by Fernando Botero and gifted to the city. Her statue definitely merits a photo because even at night, people stood and leaned against her body as if it were a resting post! She is a fine work of art that adorns the city. But instead of eating within the historic district, we grabbed a cab to the outer parts of the city and joined the locals for lunch at a place much recommended called "La Casa de Socorro". Here we were greeted by the owner, an older woman dressed in all white (who apparently is still feuding with the location next door for rights to the name). The World Cup was playing on a small television and we sat comfortably in a back table admiring the wide array of Colombian plates on the menu. The owner put together a menu for us all consisting of salad, arroz con coco, cazuelas de mariscos, and patacones. I was in heaven! It was delicious.

Next on our self-guided tour was El Convento Santa Cruz de la Popa on the top of the hillside. We passed the infamous Castillo San Felipe on the way, an old fort built by the Spanish to defend the port. The rain still hadnt stopped however, so we passed up that stop and ventured up by car through muddy trails and old tin houses til we got to the top of the hill. And what a view that was! Despite the clouds, we were able to glance over the entire city of Cartagena. The old monastery was made up of stone archways and held an open courtyard in the center with vines of flowers draping down. There wasnt much to see once inside the doors, but monks apparently still inhabit the grounds where it stands and the inside chapel stood untouched.

Once back down the hill and within the historic city, we were invited to tour the newly built residential complex called "Casa del Virrey Eslava". Its a modern day blend of arquitecture consisting of story-high townhouse residences surrounded by private pools, fountains, bridges, and gardens. A family friend had just purchased a loft-style home and invited us all for sunset cocktails on his rooftop terrace. Another great view! The complex was designed to offer tranquility and luxury in the heart of historic Cartagena. Maybe one day I'll look into that option!

After the sun set and the night's vibe turned up the heat and noise, we all showered and grouped in the hotel lounge for some cold mojitos and World Cup soccer matches. Once our hunger struck it was time to eat again! We walked through town with its buzzing of tourists and locals, its music-filled streets, and its undeniable humidity until we came across an adoring little spot that seemed quaint and inviting called "La Cocina de Carmela".

This tiny nook stood on the corner of a small street and once inside, we chose a corner table adorned with candlelight. Dinner was nothing to brag about. The service was slow and food was fairly over priced, but regardless it went on for hours, as did our conversations. And thats how we liked it! Next thing I knew, the restaurant was empty and it was close to midnight. Im sure the staff was dying to give us the boot but we saw our way out and back on the vibrant streets once again. It was our last night in the city and although I never got the chance to touch the beaches, I plan to return to that lovely little city and do it all over again!

Cartagena, Colombia is a gem. The people are magnifying, the food rich and full of flavor, and the energy is simply captivating...

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