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Published: October 24th 2010
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Bienvenidos a Colombia!
Current status: Hungover, going through Fort Knox airport security, sleepy, dry.
Last week we flew from Lima to Bogota. It's actually quite gutting thinking about how much we've missed in Peru and are going to miss in Colombia because of our fear of getting on another bus. Once again, thanks Bolivia, thanks a lot!
South America's specialty is putting its capitals on top of big mountains and Bogotá is no exception, set at 2600m. After numerous conversations about FARC, kidnappings, cartels, crime, how much the country has changed, how dangerous it actually still is, we could not help but feel slightly apprehensive when first stepping out the airport. We stayed in La Candelaria which is the historic artsy part and the first thing you notice is the number of police and security guards about the place. We ensured that we were sufficiently puffed up, moody looking and had a decoy stash of notes ready to hand over if we were held up at screwdriver point but this turned out to be unnecessary. Obviously the security guards are there for a reason but we've felt completely safe in Bogota. Sure it has it's
bad parts but doesn't everywhere?
La Candelaria is the old Bogota with cobbled streets and colourful little stone houses with narrow doors. Unlike many colonial areas it hasn't really been spruced up and is buzzing with bohemian atmosphere. It's full of dark little bars and candle lit cafes. We stayed at Hostel Sue, it has an Israeli restaurant across the road that does a great shawarma. In the area there are tons of museums, the best ones we went to were the gold museum, the military museum and the police museum. The police museum was really interesting, it's in a French neoclassical building that was the original station and has a couple of rooms dedicated to Pablo Escabar including some bloodstained roof tiles from where he was shot down! All the tour guides are young guys doing their military service, ours was sweet he even made us coffee although I got laughed at when I asked for milk.
Speaking of coffee, we've drank a disgusting amount in the last seven days. Another good reason to come to Bogota if anything is for the chocolate santafereño....... hot chocolate with chunks of melted cheese. Muy feliz! Chocolate and
cheese, my two favourite things together, it works!
We moved hostels a few days ago to Zona T. This area feels like being in a completely different city, it's ultra modern and has streets and streets lined with bars, clubs and shops. I couldn't believe it took David all week to notice "the amount of women with skinny bodies and huge knockers", yup plastic surgery is big here.
In Bogota people seem to go out early as opposed to when we were in Brazil, Argentina and Chile where nothing happened until at least 12. Best place for a rumba is Andres Carne de Res. This is required partying when in Bogota. It's basically numerous floors of meat eating, salsa dancing, steaks sizzling, posing and being there to be seen. It's like TGI Fridays on acid! We went with fellow gringo Ali and were by far the most underdressed folk there. It wasn't hard to explain the restrictions of a limited backpacker wardrobe but the Colombian chicas were not impressed with my or Ali's outfit, no woman in Bogota would be seen dead in a pair of dirty converse! Without a doubt Colombia has the best looking
people in the continent.
Bogota was also our base for a day trip to Zipaquira, a small town around 45 minutes away and well known for its Salt Cathedral. The catch is, the Cathedral is built in a salt mine and is 200m underground! We ventured back on a bus on the way there as Bogota has a very modern transport system like an overground subway where the buses have their own lanes but after getting spooked going round corners a little fast we got a taxi back!
Very jealous of everyone else we've met who have been travelling all around Colombia, the north especially where the scenery is supposed to be amazing. In Medellin you can do a Pablo Escabar tour including sitting on his Harley whilst wearing his fur hat and meeting his blind brother! The lost city, Ciudad Perdida trek in the north looks much cooler than the inca trail. As we leave, it is clear that Bogota and Colombia has a lot more to offer. Perhaps another time?
Hasta luega Bogota. Nosotros iremos hoy Miami!
Viva Sudamerica!
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Lisa
non-member comment
I'll go back with you....
Im going to miss these blogs guys! And Hannah Green Ill go a trip with you back to Colombia anytime.....enjoy your last little while and cant wait to see you xxx