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Colchagua Valley and Patagonia
Julie and I took a coal fired steam train around Colchagua Valley, Chile's answer to Napa Valley. The train supplied us with more wine than we could drink, faster than we could drink it. To break up the day, we stopped at some of Chile's prized vineyards for more tastings and a delicious 5 course lunch. The two most popular grapes grown in Chile are Cabernet Saugvingon and Malbec. Malbec, if you haven't heard of it, is kind of like cabernet only a little lighter. Almost like you may imagine a cab - pinot hybrid to taste, only good. We have been drinking it religiously since. In the store, a good bottle of either wine costs about $6-10 USD, while a wine of silmilar quality would cost about $30 USD in the states. It's even less expensive here in Buenos Aires.
In terms of general infrastructure and economic prosperity there is a tremendous difference between Central America and South America, the latter having more than the former, but neither can compare to the US. While Chile boasts of having the most stable economiy and government, my Stray Dog O Meter, a measure of a town,
city or country's wealth based on the number of stray dogs roaming the streets, puts Buenos Aires in the top spot with the least number of dogs on the street and the most number of dogs a pets. But I digress, more on that latter on. Perhaps the next blog.
We took a 4 hr flight south to Punta Arena, a Patagonian town on the Straight of Magellan. Before the Panama Canal, the Straight was once used as the route ships took to get goods from the Atlantic to the Pacific. From Punta Arenas, we took what should have been a 5hr ride, but was a 7hr ride because it was dark and snowing, to Torres Del Paine National Park. Our driver, driving a tin can of car, navigated the pot hole riddled dirt roads like Randy Travis through a mine field. Along the way, we passed a few hundred thousand sheep, some puma, a few ostringe type birds and other various animals, wild or otherwise. I've been in the middle of nowhere before, but I did not realize the various degrees of 'the middle of nowhere' until this particular excursion. First of all, Punta Arenas is more or
less at the end of earth. Antartica is the one exception. Secondly, after 7 hours in the car passing nothing but animals we realized just how far off the map we were. A few hours into the drive I began thinking that our driver could dispose of us the side of the road if he wished, but quickly rationalized that thought away. If he had wanted to do that, he could have done it the first hour in.
Torres Del Paine was one of the most naturally beautiful parks I have ever seen. Granite peaks 9,000ft high surrounded lush valleys and supplied numerous lakes with fresh water. We stayed on the edge of Lago Grey (the Grey Lake), a 17km long, 1500 ft deep, 33 degree lake. Glacier Grey stayed on the opposite end. The trip started out calm, but fierce winds in the middle of the lake, over 100km an hour, made for a Perfect Storm like ride with 15ft swells breaking over the third floor of the boat. The Glacier was amazing! The pictures speak for themselves.
We are now chillaxing with Tommy in Buenos Aires. They love thier meat here. I ate a $10 NY
strip steak last night that could have passed for a $45 one at any NYC steak house. Put it this way, 2 bottles of incredible wine, 3 steaks, and some sides cost us $20 USD a head last night. Tonight we take an 18hr bus ride to Iguazu Falls, one of the top 3 waterfalls on the planet.
More on Buenos Aires and my Stay Dog O Meter in the next posting.
Stay Classy San Diego !
Colchagua Valley and Patagonia
Julie and I took a coal fired steam train around Colchagua Valley, Chile's answer to Napa Valley. The train supplied us with more wine than we could drink, faster than we could drink it. To break up the day, we stopped at some of Chile's prized vineyards for more tasting and a delicious 5 course lunch. The two most popular grapes grown in Chile are Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Malbec, if you haven't heard of it, is kind of like cabernet only a little lighter. Almost like you may imagine a cab - pinot hybrid to taste, only good. We have been drinking it religiously since. In the store, a good bottle of either wine
costs about $6-10 USD, while a wine of similar quality would cost about $30 USD in the states. It's even less expensive here in Buenos Aires.
In terms of general infrastructure and economic prosperity there is a tremendous difference between Central America and South America, the latter having more than the former, but neither can compare to the US. While Chile boasts of having the most stable economy and government, my Stray Dog O Meter, a measure of a town, city or country's wealth based on the number of stray dogs roaming the streets, puts Buenos Aires in the top spot with the least number of dogs on the street and the most number of dogs a pets. But I digress, more on that later on. Perhaps the next posting.
We took a 4 hr flight south to Punta Arenas, a Patagonian town on the Straight of Magellan. Before the Panama Canal, the Straight was once used as the route ships took to get goods from the Atlantic to the Pacific. From Punta Arenas, we took what should have been a 5hr ride, but was a 7hr ride because it was dark and snowing, to Torres Del Paine
National Park. Our driver, driving a tin can of car, navigated the pot hole riddled dirt roads like Randy Travis through a mine field. Along the way, we passed a few hundred thousand sheep, some puma, a few ostrich type birds and other various animals, wild or otherwise. I've been in the middle of nowhere before, but I did not realize the various degrees of 'the middle of nowhere' until this particular excursion. First of all, Punta Arenas is more or less at the end of earth. Antarctica is the one exception. Secondly, after 7 hours in the car passing nothing but animals we realized just how far off the map we were. A few hours into the drive I began thinking that our driver could dispose of us the side of the road if he wished, but quickly rationalized that thought away. If he had wanted to do that, he could have done it the first hour in.
Torres Del Paine was one of the most naturally beautiful parks I have ever seen. Granite peaks 9,000ft high surrounded lush valleys and supplied numerous lakes with fresh water. We stayed on the edge of Lago Grey (the Grey Lake),
a 17km long, 1500 ft deep, 33 degree lake. Glacier Grey stayed on the opposite end. The trip started out calm, but fierce winds in the middle of the lake, over 100km an hour, made for a Perfect Storm like ride with 15ft swells breaking over the third floor of the boat. The Glacier was amazing! The pictures speak for themselves.
We are now chillaxing with Tommy in Buenos Aires. They love their meat here. I ate a $10 NY strip steak last night that could have passed for a $45 one at any NYC steak house. Put it this way, 2 bottles of incredible wine, 3 steaks, and some sides cost us $20 USD a head last night. Tonight we take an 18hr bus ride to Iguazu Falls, one of the top 3 waterfalls on the planet.
More on Buenos Aires and my Stray Dog O Meter in the next posting.
Stay Classy San Diego !
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james st. james
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patiperros
great trip. i totally understand the dog-o-meter, however, chile will mess with the reading. normally, a country of chile's level of development (fairly good) will have few stray dogs, but this isn't the case. the authorities have the means to deal with the issue, but there was some popular push back against efforts to round up strays. people in santiago and valparaiso would hide strays in their yards overnight to keep them from getting taken and euthenized. so they pretty much gave up. many "strays" are also owned dogs who pretty much roam free all day. the dogs are happy and generally in good health (unlike dogs in more unfortunate countries), though turds and fleas can be a nuisance. enjoy your travels, and i hope to read more about your dog-o-meter as your trip goes on. cheers!