Living on the edge: Valparaiso


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February 26th 2008
Published: March 6th 2008
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Living on the edgeLiving on the edgeLiving on the edge

Jorge´s place - our home from home in Valpo (that´s our washing on the line)
Just finished reading ´The Cold Six Thousand´ by James Ellroy, which has inspired us to follow his style for our latest offering. Few sentences longer than five words. A bit unorthodox, but it gets the message across. Quite fitting for Valparaiso...

Valpo:

Gritty. Seedy. Edgy. Colourful.

Bus station heaving. The bald gringo caught the dude´s eye.
- Hospedaje Amigo?
- Si, possiblemente. Quanto Cuesta? Donde es?
That´s the kick-off. Dude doesn´t speak much Ingles, but understands most. Similar the gringos espanol. Dude looks like a good guy. It´s enough.

Dude - Jorge - hails a cab. Another passenger is already inside. Doesn´t seem to mind the company. The crew head to the old part of town.
- This place can be a bit rough at times. Watch your belongings.
- Er, OK.

The house is on a hill. Big hill. Damn big hill. House looks like an old shed. Back end hangs out 5ft over the cliff. Not sure this is such a good idea. But take a look...

Inside is cool. Bright colours. Decent furniture. Tidy Kitchen. Bathroom needs some work, but it´s clean. Bedroom door has a lock. It´s busted.
- No problem I can fix a padlock
- OK we´ll take it.
- Great. I got to sort out a problem with the Argentinos. Two other guests. Had some money stolen just down the street.
- Er, OK...

The gringos head downtown. It´s Sunday. It´s getting dark. The streets nearby are a bombsite. Remnants of a gas explosion. Nice scene. Few people on the street. Edgy. Very Edgy. Not sure about Valpo. Not sure at all.

Next morning. Shower is cold. Seat falls off the john.
- maybe we should try elsewhere tonight.
- OK

But breakfast is too good. The best they´ve had. They chat to the Argentinos. Jorge is a good host. It´s enough. It swings them. They soften. Lets stay another night.

The day is fine. They hit the docks. They hit the Ascensors. Great views. Warming to Valpo.

They go walkabout. The graffiti adds to the spectacle. It´s cool. Some of it´s really cool. Old houses. Tight-packed. Narrow streets. Hills. Lots of them. It´s hard going. But good. Cafe Bars are funky. Good food. They walk. They take photos. They walk more. Exhausted.


They hit the sack early. Got to be up at 6. Bus out of town...

Alarm doesn´t go off. Jorge wakes them just in time.
- Thanks man!
- No problema.

Love Valpo.


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7th March 2008

high altitude fever??
Is it just my pre-nap imagination, or are you guys getting more twisted with each location? Keep up the great scribing - your giving Kurt Vonnegut a run for his money.....more fun than PVPower / website, eh Pauly??!

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