South America - a brief encounter: 4 * CHILE - Santiago and Valparaiso *

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Another ‘episode’ in 'our' travel experiences.

The collective ‘episodes’ (this being the fourth) describe our journey from our arrival in Buenos Aires (Sth America) from the 1st week of October for an extended tea-bag experience of this huge continent. Like home, the continent is huge. In the few weeks available to us, we can only experience a few locations - a (tea-bag) dunk here, another there, and so on. After a few days in Buenos Aires, we flew to Lima for a 'dunk' into a few selected locations. We then fly to Chile to do some more 'tea-bagging'. We'll eventually make our way back to Argentina and our departure home.



We attach a few pics to give a flavour of our journey, and some may 'flow over' past the dialogue. If we do this, you may need to manually go to the 'spillover' page to see them.



As always, if you want to 'see' more detail in an accompanying picture, click it to enlarge.

A summary (for those with limited time)...

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Thursday saw us head from Lima to arrive in Santiago in the late afternoon. Friday began late as we joined a 'walking tour' of the CBD, ending up 'across' the river to the (formerly) seedy suburb of Bellavista. Saturday had us visiting a museum of pre-Colombian art before exploring further Bellavista. Sunday was 'rent-a-car' day and we explored ravines and gorges south-west of the city. On Monday we used the hire car to head west toward the coastal area of Vina del Mar and surrounds. On Tuesday we used our (available) time to explore the 'heritage' city of Valparaiso. As we had a departing flight on the Tuesday afternoon, we returned to Santiago.

Thursday 20th October; to Santiago...

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We had to be at the airport at 6am for our flight from Lima to Santiago. While a 4 hour flight, Santiago is 2 hours ahead of Lima and so we arrived mid afternoon. The journey from the airport to our accommodation in Providencia using the Metro (subway) was smooth. We settled ourselves and went to a supermarket to get supplies. From the airport to the supermarket, we were quite amazed at the clean and orderly 'demeanour' of Santiago. And, as we walked the side streets to the supermarket (and back another route) we noted householders even had small gardens with temperate plants - many of which were in bloom. We read that the Santiago metropolis hosts some 6 million people and that is about a third of all of Chile. While we weren't in an outer suburb where poverty may occur, this suburb showed us that economically Chile appears more advanced than we'd assumed.

Friday 21st October; Santiago...

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On our journey from the airport yesterday, Judy felt hungry and we bought a sandwich and drink. Judy lamented the purchase as she got more than she'd bargained for - the squirts. So, instead of heading out early to go 'looksee' Santiago, we stayed put for a few hours.



Early afternoon had us on the Metro into the city centre to join a walking tour of the Santiago CBD. The 'leader' was a 4th year Uni student. While he wanted to embrace discussion on the Pinochet era, he was hesitant to 'open up'. It appears the 'conflict' is still raw in Chilean society with some strongly held views. Fortunately, this old fart provided the incentive to 'open up'. So, not only did we get a commentary on the major buildings, but also a history lesson on who did what and when during 'those' years.



At the University of Santiago buildings, a huge banner had been erected. We were told that national investment into education and health care has been reduced over the years to a 'pittance' and citizens are protesting about the matter. We learned that the weekly cost for a Uni degree is more than double the national average weekly wage. Standing in front of the Santiago Club building, yours truly asked the history. The leader noted the irony between a lavish elitist club and the national university across the road. As we were about to depart, some 'aged' portly onlookers waylaid the leader to 'educate' him about his view!!!! They'd just come out of the Santiago Club!!



We also learned that the 'city' of Santiago was already an Inca'n city when the Spanish 'explorers' sought to establish an 'outpost' in the region. Historians and archaeologists have determined beyond doubt that the site of present day Santiago was the most southerly Inca'n administrative city. Apparently, seeking to gain fame the Spanish conquistador Pedro de Valdivia set out from Cusco to 'establish' a southern centre for the Spanish kingdom. By all accounts, de Valdivia knew of the centre before setting out and when arriving pursued 'discussions' with the inhabitants. de Valdivia proposed a city (for Spain) and the locals duly agreed. Funny how 'conquerors' overlook the history that existed before their 'conquest'.



Along the journey, we happened upon two young adults busking - they were demonstrating the traditional Chilean dance. Judy loved it.



Santiago straddles the Mapocho River, and the 'tour' ended on the 'other' side from the CBD in the suburb of Bellavista (below a large hill). While a bit seedy in places, the suburb now hosts many University buildings and a thriving pub and restaurant 'scene'. It also hosts an amazing array of 'graffiti' murals.



On the plane trip from Lima, we'd noted a craft beer place named Kross-Bar, and we passed it just before the tour ended. Seemed like a great venue to spend the rest of the evening; so we did. After a good night out, we ambled (or, was that stumbled) back to the apartment for a decent sleep.

Saturday 22nd October; Santiago...

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Having been advised by a few folk that the 'must see' is the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino , we headed back into the city centre by Metro. Apparently, a private collector with a large accumulation of pre-Colombian artefacts initiated the material to the museum to which the Chilean government added from its collection. Given our recent foray into the Inca territory, the museum provided a very interesting perspective (contrast?) to that typically available to we travellers. As the benefactor had acquired a considerable range of (pre) Mexican artefacts, we were fascinated to learn that the Mayan 'empire' fluctuated in fortune partly due to war or disease, but mainly because of climatic effects impacting on available potable water supply.



Continuing on with our 'explorations', we decided to further explore the Bellavista area. We'd rushed through the previous evening and down some of the streets we'd noted much graffiti. As we later learned, the Santiago region of Chile fuses graffiti with street art - the result is amazing. After wandering a few streets, we could see there were budding 'artists' - colour up to head height. Then there were full-on artists - whole wall murals. All were constructed from spray and some really engaging. It seems some building owners engage (employ?) the 'artists' to decorate their facades. Interestingly, in one park, the authorities had engaged an artist to apply broken tiles as a mosaic. The result was more a copy of the better 'graffiti' than a separate or personalised artistic display.



Just over the River Mopocho lies a (relatively) high hill with a funicular to the top. We'd planned to 'do' it, leaving it to the end of the day. Wrong move, the cloud and haze (smog?) had moved in. By the time we arrived at the summit we could hardly see far at all. Oh, well!



Being late in the day, we decided to explore a few bar options and again had an enjoyable brew (experience). Chilean craft beer isn't anywhere near as good as Australia or New Zealand. But, the alternative is decidedly unpalatable.

Sunday 23rd October; Santiago & around...

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We'd pre-booked a hire car for today and tomorrow. We noted we'd pick up at 9am. Somehow, our times got mixed up. Having set our phone clocks onto Chile time, for some reason they'd reverted to Peruvian time and we arrived at the rental car site at 11am!!! Again, Oh, Well!



From our research, we'd read that the Maipo Valley was scenic and an enjoyable journey. So, using our phone as a satnav, we headed in said direction. We are now well versed to driving on the right, and the Santiago traffic is very orderly. If there was anything that is noticeably different is the courtesy shown. From stopping before people step on the pedestrian crossing, to stopping to allow an entering driver into the traffic flow, and more. For those versed to hurry it may be annoying, but the 'kindness' was pleasing.



Like so many parts of the world, once we'd departed the urban boundary we found buildings encroaching the roadside. Arriving from the airport and travelling towards the city, the buildings had been set back. Here, there was little if any setback. As many buildings were restaurants or similar (tourism), we assumed they were past examples of 'mushrooms'. Sadly, any view of the valley was obliterated.



We continued up the valley to the primary town of San Jose de Maipo. There, we were diverted as being a Sunday the centre was a major visitor drawcard. When returning down the valley, we discovered that local indigenous folk set up stalls in the streets and on a sunny day such as today this attracts Santiguans in their droves. It seems the family go visit the market and then 'do' lunch. As we were to learn, in Chile Sunday 'lunch' is big deal. It's an all family affair.



As we 'progressed' up the valley, we noted the proliferation of Californian Poppy. We'd seen them in such numbers once before - in The Snowy River valley (in Victoria). As we later learned, they seed and germinate easily! here, they were everywhere. We stopped further upstream for an Empanada and drink. The attendant - who could converse in English - advised us of some sights we should consider further up the valley. One was a waterfall in the Volcan valley. Another was the 'high ground' up the Yeso valley. The first was an anticlimax. The second ...



Not long after we entered the Yeso valley, the road turned to gravel. Even at a slowish speed, the car created a huge pall of dust. Venturing on, the high mountain walls gradually closed in. Before long, we could see the snow covered tops of high peaks. Eventually we arrived at a water storage dam and at that place the road narrowed significantly. Despite being dry and dusty, many cars were parked with occupants wandering the dam wall. Negotiating cars parked at odd angles, we headed on till we came to the end of the dam and the beginning of a sort of open plain area. We were confronted by a fast running rivulet and wondered whether we should forge it. A bit a rev and a bounce or two got us over. Being graded alluvial soil, the dust was appreciably less. To our left was a volcanic peak and much snow in the ravine, and to our right a sheer mountainous wall. Stunning scenery!!!



We continued on as far was we could take the car - being blocked by a large snow drift. Even with patches of snow, the ground was dry and dusty. We worked out we had risen to about 3500 metres. The air was not only fresh (read, bloody cold), it was extremely dry. We took our leave and returned to Providencia with a very dirty car.

Monday 24th October; Valparaiso & Vina del Mar...

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heading in the opposite direction from the previous day - this time coastward. With a tummy bug Judy had not had a good night. Judy felt she needed some Ciproxin. Like Australia, access is via prescription. Our medication 'haul' was scant for this so we neeeded to visit a doctor. By mid morning with much uncomfortableness, a google search showed we could access a doctor at Casablanca. Judy wasn't in the frame of mind to note the association with past movie romance. After a 3 hour wait - yes, just like Oz - Judy was seen by a medico. Even though there was a translator and we were using google translate, the doctor announced that Ciproxin is not used in Chile so prescribed some rehydration (we told her this is not an issue) and an anti-convulsive. The doctor claiming it was 'just a virus'.



Judy complained the prescribed potions were exceedingly bitter. This is despite the overconsumption of sugar in Chile. We had another look at our medications and Judy opted for Loperimide. She figured that if she had to await the body 'self treating' the virus, if she was bound-up at least one detrimental attribute would be eliminated.



The time waiting for the doctor wasn't entirely 'wasted'. We got to see how Chileans interact amongst themselves. A few knew English so we also had conversations and they also 'interpreted' for others. Waiting rooms in Australia are typically 'cold' in atmosphere - here they were warmer. And, the people therein friendlier.



We'd planned to visit Valparaiso before heading to our accommodation in Renaca (a part of Vina del Mar). Given the time 'wasted', we headed for our accommodation and a drive up the coast. Gee, is this THE place for domestic holiday makers. The surrounding plain meets the coast with a dramatic escarpment. And, highrise apartments carpet the escarpment. For so many highrise buildings, a funicular is the primary means of access. The alternative is stairs!



Along the coast there is a scant supply of sand beaches, with most being wedged between rocky promontories. The exception is Vina del Mar which has a long beach. And, as can be expected, it is heavily commercialised. In the late afternoon sun, we meandered northwards. We were surprised at the number of police 'positions' along the drive. it seems every 1 or 2 kilometres, a couple of police were stationed and they were 'calling' in passing motorists for whatever. We weren't 'called in', so we don't know the reason. Perhaps like Australia, it was a pleasantly warm sunny afternoon and a good reason to get out of the office and collect revenue for their 'managers'!



Our accommodation was on the seaward side of the road and with the incumbent hotel having a well regarded dining room, we ate at the hotel. Wrong move! The seafood was - let's just say ordinary!

Tuesday 25th October; Valparaiso & Temuco...

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Having bypassed Valparaiso the previous day, we headed there early to ensure we got a reasonable squiz. We had to be back in Santiago by mid afternoon to depart the capital for Temuco by air (it being some 700km away).



Valparaiso is also an escarpment city, though the topography is not as steep as further north along the coast. It began life (and remains) the port for Santiago (and surrounds). Lonely Planet describes it as "syncopated, dilapitated, colorful and poetic, Valparaiso is a wonderful mess". After a few hours exploring the streets, lanes and corners, we'd have to agree. If we thought graffiti in Santiago was an artform, we were unprepared for the display in Valparaiso. In some respects, the graffiti appeared THE way to hide the rusting corrugated iron, decaying weatherboard and cracking cement render. One of the characteristics of a mature urban is the preponderance of rejuvenated dwellings (gentrification), stylish replacements (modernisation), and vegetated streetscapes (and or parks). The 'heritage' Valparaiso had none of this but it was still a mature urban. There was no vegetation. The rejuvenated dwelling merely had a graffiti facade to differentiate from the decrepit. And, there were no stylish (or any other) replacement dwellings. Here, (backpacker) hostels, cafes, and tourist service providers (apparently) amicably jostled with the domestic.



We visited the Musuem of Fine Arts on a hill with a great view. The museum is housed in Palacio Baburizza - the former residence of a Croatian businessman.



In a disused jail, the city fathers have (re)developed the site to provide a range of options for artists, gardeners, and other 'creators'. Part modern, part original, the ambience was delightful. We assumed those in the 'space' were locals doing 'their' thing. We wandered through the gardenspace, with flowers, vege's and herbs. In the late morning sun, the aroma's reminded us of our garden at home. At one end of the garden, a band was preparing for a recording. Inside the building, people were in glass fronted rooms 'in conference'. There was a feeling (ambience?) of artists going about there business that contrasted greatly with the settled decay that we found describes Valparaiso.



With time steadily marching on, we took our leave and headed back to Santiago. We had a flight to catch for Temuco and our explorations in southern Chile.



We had been given 2 'BIP' cards by our apartment host in Santiago and we'd overlooked returning these. 'BIP' cards are the cashless transport cards like GO in Brisbane, OPAL in Sydney and MYKI in Melbourne (to name a few). Thus, we had to return to Providencia to return the cards. When we were on top of the summit of the nearby hill, we'd noted some glass skyscrapers a few suburbs north of Providencia. With a bit of time on hand, we pointed the car in that direction. We 'arrived' at Las Condes, an amazing upmarket suburb. Not only were there condominiums, parks (including a golf course) and shopping centres, but also many office buildings. Whatever the background, this is where the Chilean elite work, rest, shop and play.



Tomorrow, the south.

Reflections...

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After the 3rd world 'encounter' of Buenos Aires and Peru, we were unprepared for the dynamic economic reality of Chile. From what we experienced, it may not be a 1st world economy, but it isn't far away. Whether the economic success of the Santiago region spills across the nation we will discover in the coming days.



We liked the cleanliness, the sense of order and the apparent care demonstrated by Chileans to others. And, for the few encounters we experienced talking to strangers, there is a sense of happiness in the way they communicate.



Clearly, Chileans has suffered economic and dictatorial hardships to arrive at where they are today. Not being Spanish speakers, we'll never know whether there is a lingering negative sentiment. But, from the surface it appears to us not.

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