A quick flit around Santiago and then it's so long South America...

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Having recharged our batteries in Bahia Inglesa we set about discovering Santiago de Chile in 48 hours. We took our last overnight bus for at least a month. We could only buy semi-cama seats, so fittingly enough, it was quite an uncomfortable journey, thus increasing the appeal of our impending camper-van travels.

When we arrived in Santiago at around 8.30am, we were stiff and lost. A kind lady pointed us in the direction of the metro station and we donkeyed our bags over. Having bought our tickets we were stopped in our tracks when we saw the hoards of people that were queuing four deep the length of the train track. It dawned on us that it was rush hour and all of these people were trying to get to work for nine o clock. We held back and found a stairs to sit on until the masses of people had dispersed. It was a useful time for reflection on how much has changed in 4 months. We rarely encounter rush hour anymore because our daily schedule doesn't include being at a desk by 8 or 9 o' clock. We paused and appreciated our good fortune while we watched the people battling to squeeze onto the last few inches of space on the train.

At 9.01 the platform was practically cleared and we decided we were willing to risk it. As we hugged our bags close to us while trying to hold on for dear life and keep an eye out for pickpockets. Eight stops later we emerged from the metro station and tried to orient ourselves. We walked about 10 minutes to the Barrio Bellavista and managed to walk straight past our hostel (somewhat distracted by the pneumatic drill that was digging up the road!)

We eventually realized our error and checked in to the hostel. Despite it being hours before the official check-in time, they kindly led us straight into our empty dorm. We were shattered and fell into bed, hoping to get a few hours of shut-eye to catch up on our previous nights broken sleep. The workmen had different ideas, and soon after we had snuggled up in the beds the drilling recommenced and put paid to any visit to the land of nod.

There was nothing for it only to head out and explore Santiago. We inquired at reception for the best place to buy clothes and to maybe find a hairdresser and started walking in that general direction. A short while later we came across a hairdressers/beauticians and I decided to get my hair done.

Two hours later I emerged stunned and far from stunning. I had been insulted, tugged and pulled at and the colour they put in was about 5 shades off my usual brown. I was upset and horrified but there was no way I was letting another non-English speaker near my hair to fix it. I would simply stay out of any photos for the next few days until we get to New Zealand. We continued our tour of the city and made our way to the Plaza de Armas where we watched the old men play chess, the artists sketching scenes and admired the nice architecture and stone sculptures. The next morning I noticed a few extra long chunks of hair and again cursed the salon as Philippe had a go at leveling it out with a nail scissors!

The next day we tackled Santiago with gusto. We walked through the Barrio Bellavista and took the little train up to the San Cristobel to get a beautiful view over Santiago. It being a sunny day we gave into temptation to have a little (litre) of beer on a terrace beside the main road. One led to two. Two led to three. Three led to four and then one for the road. All sense of normality gone out the window, bottle number five led to an extortionately expensive “Farewell South America” steak dinner that neither of us can truly remember the taste of.

We flopped into bed and awoke three hours later craving water. I managed to crawl to reception to buy some and from that moment onwards couldn't sleep a further wink. Philippe was going through the same thing. It was inexplicable, but as we later found out was actually a blessing in disguise.

We gave up on sleep early the next morning and with still delicate heads we packed up our belongings for the last time on this continent. We went for another walk into town, got a nice greasy lunch and bought a few last minute items. To pass the afternoon we paid a visit to the Pre-Columbian Museum. It was fascinating to step back in time and compare artifacts from the various cultures but by 5pm we were wilting. At six we were back in the hostel waiting for a taxi to take us to Santiago Airport for the 13 hour flight that was ahead of us.

We perked up a little as we wandered the duty free shops, but once we were on the plane we were out for the count. I woke up 10 hours later, surprised to see the little plane on the map hovering close to New Zealand...

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