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Published: January 2nd 2009
The flight of the condor across the Andes to the long thin country. Santiago is a sprawling metropolis, tucked in the shadow of the Andes.
The similarities were many with Buenos Aires, although in the same way as evident in Montevideo the people seemed less focussed. This was clearly evident in the hotel, where a singular question brought a pause and a measured response, but two questions without time for that measured response brought total confusion. We spent our time mainly in two areas, the downtown city centre and Providencia, the party central headquarters. The two were linked by an up to date underground metro, which was spotlessly clean, cheap and rapid.
The two areas were distinctly different. Downtown was the home of all the grand administrative buildings. The archetypical South American toy soldiers were guarding them and didn’t seem too perturbed by being photographic celebrities. It had a more ethnic feel to it, especially by night when the business suits had retreated to wherever they go in Santiago. Provedencia was more “western” in it’s appearance, with glitzy bars and pizza emporiums to attract the younger, night owls of Santiago. In the downtown we were directed in search of
Santiago
The old and the newsome more typical Chilean food fayre i.e. fish, but could only seem to see chicken and chip outlets - however unfair a combination, Chile and this food source remain synonymous in our minds to this day.
The best football experience to be mustered during our stay did not come in the form of Colo Colo (which was a shame because I liked the badge and bought one anyway), Universidad de Chile or Universidad de Catolica. The mighty Palestino against Cobreloa (from up near the Atacama Desert) was all that was available in Division 1. In contrast to the vast away supports in Argentina, Cobreloa mustered about 10 of their number (two of which arrived by bicycle, although hopefully not from their home base). The football was below the standard of Argentina and Uruguay, the crowd of 1500 was sparse in the 12,000 capacity Estadio Municipal de La Cisterna, and 2-1 was the score. Miranda didn't get in half price like Uruguay, but managed to make an appearance on the teamsheet for Cobreloa. The day was saved by a very nice view of the Andes from the “main” stand.
Valparaiso was a colourful jumble on a hillside. The hillside
gradients were serious, with some rather dubious structures clinging to the barest of foundations above the city and the port. There was that down at heart port feel about the place - scruffy, but genuine, with some dramatic vistas.
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