Pisco Elqui

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Book I am reading. Alex Cross's Trail by James Patterson. A true story about the events of lynching in the deep south and one mans campaign against it. Compelling and tearful reading. .
I am writing this sat under a cloudless sky by a hostel swimming pool. It is 8.45am. All around there are the mountains of the Andes, in every conceivable shade of brown. The green of the garden in which I am sat is a stark contrast reminding me that I am between the desert of the north and the fertile soil of the south. It is very peaceful with only the sound of a cockerel breaking the silence as he welcomes a new day.
Yesterday I finally managed to speak to a manager at my bank. My cards have now been cancelled again as they sent them all to the wrong address. They were honest to admit they royally #ed up and understanding the position it has left me in and having to move money around the world to get by, have been very gratious in their apology. Aswell as ordering new cards as a priority for the correct address they will refund all my money transfer commission and telephone costs sorting it all out from my mobile in chile. Some £260. A right result. Armed with this information went out and bought the items to replace those that were stolen. A new camera, sunglasses etc. A good day.
So, have decided to spend sometime in the Elqui Valley. I have been told it is a wonderful place and that this is where the drink Pisco is made, the wine based brandy type spirit.
It is about eight hours away on the bus north of Santiago.
Am taking the night bus so as to have an extra day there before returning to Santiago to see the Foo Fighters at a large festival, The Loopalooza, on Sunday. As a thank you to Andy have bought his ticket. His mum and brother Ivan are going too.
Not much sleep this time on the bus. Set off just after midnight but there was mucho snoring y farting going on. Despite my attempts to ignore it, I just could not control my own normal bodily noctural functions. Must have been the sweet corn pie.!
So arrive on the coach La Serena. Cannot get the song My Sharona by TheKnack out of my head. Dunna danna dun da dun da dun da derdunna danna dun da .. La Serena.
It is still dark and then transfer to a minibus to Pisco Elqui, a further 2.5hrs up the valley.
An amazing trip. I left a green and pleasant Santiago. As the sun rose above the Valley Elqui in the Andes, a dry and arid landscape met my eyes. Dusty brown mountains with a few trees struggling to survive Clinging onto the side of the mountain is a single carriageway on which I am travelling. And yet, down below, was the green of vineyards filling the valley floor, stretching as far as my eyes vould see, and as the sun finally revealed itself so did the majesty of this incredible place.
The valley, carved by glaciers a millennia ago, has left a valley floor full of nutriants for life to grow and it is serviced by a river running its length. It has it's own micro climate and the sun shines here 320 days a year. Not a cloud in the sky, it is one of the best places in the southern hemisphere to gaze at the night sky aswell. Might go to the observatory.Forever spring and summer as a local hostel guide book ( not the lonely bullshit) describes it. A lush green valley floor, peppered with tiny houses and wineries with dry brown mountains rising either side. An incredible contrast.
The Inca civilisation realised the valleys potential and it as remained that way ever since.
Jump off the bus and amazingly the first person I ask where my hostel is points in the correct direction. A first! Things are looking up all ready.Mind you El Teroso hostel is within 100 meters of where we are stood so might have been a lucky guess.
Pisco Elqui. First impressions. A charming little village. Very peaceful and hardly any traffic. The main plaza lined with trees and a fountain, dominated by a sandstone and wood church. The tranquility of the village is reflected in the hostel. Little cabins set amongst beautiful gardens with a pool a the bottom of the grounds. It has the makings of a fantastic day and I have only just arrived. Think I am going to like it here. Has a touch of south America too. In the banos-toilet there is an extract from poem by Pablo Neruda
'Podran cortar todas las Flores , pero no podran detener la primavera.'
Underneath this is a sign saying 'please do not throw your toilet paper in the bowl. Please throw in the bin provided' Not sure if this is an accurate translation but it did make me titter to myself as I resolved my nighttime issues. Disco out.
PS. Have asked and what Neruda is actually saying is: you can cut the heads off all the flowers, but you will not stop spring. Wise words indeed. Disco definitely out.

Decided to visit the observatory Was quoted 17,000 pesos for the experience which seemed a lot of money to look at the night sky through a telescope. Met with a German family of Chilean heritage in the hostel. Christobel, his girlfriend Isabel and his sister Carolina. They were with their mother.lLovely people. Talking to them they were up for the observatory as well.Turns out that the entrance fee is only 4,500 pesos, and 12,500 for the minibus. I right rip off. luckily they had a car and invited me along. Blinding result. Saw Saturn rising from above the Andes with her rings and moons. Also saw Venus, Mars and other star formations. A very enthusiastic astonomer gave us the guided tour but I am glad I only paid 4,500.not worth the 17,000 I was initally quoted. back to the village to finish the night at a bar with a fire in the yard. Sat round chatting and drinking Pisco. So now it´s back to Santiago and the Foo Fighters at the weekend festival known as the Loolapalooza.

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