Trudging up the hill, the only thing that prevents us becoming airborne it seems is the suction of our boots to the slop. The poncho that envelops us isn’t helping much aerodynamically, but beneath its shelter, shackled to my back, Kiva somehow manages to sleep. "It’s possible to experience four seasons in a single day in Patagonia", I recall, as a hail seeded wintry-mix swirls up through the valley gusting every-which-way, the sun's rays somehow penetrating the squall from a crystal-clear blue sky above; leading me to believe in the possibility of experiencing them simultaneously. Begun in 1976 by the late neo-fascist Augusto Pinochet, in order to penetrate as far south as possible (lest Argentina lay claim to the territory) the Carretera Austral reached Villa O’Higgins in the year 2000, where bound by glaciers, virgin evergreen
... read more