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Published: March 28th 2005
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Afternoon at the fair
Easter Monday, Owen dining al fresco at the fair / market at Angra dos Reis while waiting for the ferry to Ilha Grande. 28 March 2005 : Rio to Ilha Grande
First we have terminal problems with the camera, not the best day for it to happen. Given we are going to a beautiful island we need another camera fast. I had breakfast and went to find one in Botafogo.
I tried Casa & Video but they were not yet open. We need cash so I tried Banco de Brasil. It accepted my card and pin, gave me my balance, but could not complete the cash transaction. Tried a different bank but no visa/maestro ATM.
Back to C&V, found the cameras locked in a case as in Curry’s etc. I asked an assistant for assistance. She pressed a button on the display and intimated someone would be along shortly. Some time later a young bloke came along whose English extended to one, two and yes - about the same as my Portuguese. Eventually I left the store with a camera and extra memory.
We checked out of the Vila Carioca hostel (www.vilacarioca.com.br ?) and fairly easily caught the next bus for Rodovaria Novo Rio. It was another exhiliarating ride, and cheaper than Alton Towers by a long way. At the bus
Leaving Angra
Rory on the ferry to Ilha Grande station it took a while to find the Costa Verde ticket counter but I got the tickets for the next bus to Angra dos Reis with fifteen minutes to spare.
We disembarked at Angra bus station and found a map indicating ‘You are here’ and a red line marking the way to the ferry to Ilha Grande. We decided to walk. It was again quite warm. After a while we reached the town itself and a fair/market. At the end of the market we reached the beginnings of the waterfront. I stopped a man for directions. We were going in the right direction but he indicated a small boat but I coul not understand quite what he said.
I approached the boat and said ‘Ilha Grande ?’ to one of the men. His reply suggested no but he gestured for us to follow him. We walked a hundred yards past fishermen folding their (blue) nets and he had aconversation with a man on-board a schooner. ‘4 o’clock, 60 Reals’ he said. ‘OK’ I said and we thankfully dumped our packs on the boat.
It was 2:45. We made our way into the fair and sat down at
Ilha Grande sun setting
About 5:30pm as we get closer to the island a café. We shared a long dish of manioc, chicken, fries, salad and felt much better for it. I then took Rory to find a toilet and a bank while Deb and Owen looked round the market to find some hats.
We got on the boat at 10 to 4. A number of people got off the boat, more got on and off. When the crew were ready not everyone had returned. A few blasts on the hooter produced the stragglers, then the driver was missing. No problems we eventually started to manoeuvre away from the jetty when a taxi sped up, horn blaring, with more passengers.
The ride across to Aabrao on Ilha Grande was fine. When we arrived it was dark. Where do we go now ? We strolled along, clearly not knowing where we were going. A man stopped and gave us perfect directions in excellent English. This is getting better al the time.
We walked round the back of two-street town and set off up the concrete path as indicated. It soon became steeper and more winding but after few mins we arrived at Pousada Cacheoira. What an enchanting place. A collection of huts
My new hat
Walking to Lopes Mendes beach wearing my essential new hat around a paved courtyard and breakfast area complete with hammock and jungle.
We dumped our things, had a drink and made our way back into town. We did a circuit and chose somewhere to eat. When it arrived there was tons and we left almost half of what we’d ordered. Back to the pousada , bed and sleep.
29 March 2005 : Coastal trail
Had breakfast in the garden. Lovely coffee and juice.
At our host’s recommendation, decided to go to Lopes Mendes beach. Owen and I to walk the overland trail, Deb and Rory to take a boat. Not a difficult walk but it was quite warm and I was carrying the bag again. It was also like walking the South-West coastal path in Cornwall - every time you see a corner you expect it’s the last but when you get there there’s another one ahead. The same goes for the hills.
Naturally we took the wrong fork at one point but it was no big deal. The way went via several other beaches, all tempting, but we carried on. We reached LM and it was lovely - sunny, white sand and surf. To top
The walk continues
Distances here are a bit like Cornish miles. This is Owen en route to Lopes Mendes, wondering why we cannot stay on this beach. it all the sand squeaked as you walked on it.
Lots of birds circling which looked at a distance like condors. They were looking for crabs and would occasionally divebomb and then squabble over their catch who had not managed to scuttle back down their holes. I tried photographing them but they would not keep still.
We all caught the boat back to Aabrao. As it was not late we stopped at a padaria and had coffee and cake. Then back to the pousada to dump photos to PC, quick shower then out to eat at a ‘kilo’ restaurant run by our host. This way we chose just what we wanted and as much as we wanted.
30 March 2005 : Lazy morning, DIY ice-cream and short trail
Spent the morning in the garden, planning next few weeks. Toddled down to the internet café to check out a couple of places in Paraty. Phoned a hostel in Paraty and we’re OK for the next few nights.
Stopped at a diy ice-cream place, again pay by the kilo and decorate with lots of sugary stuff including liquid marshmallow. Walked across a couple of headlands to spend a couple of hours at Aabraozinho beach. On return Rory and I had a brilliant open-air shower in the waterfall just down from the bottom of the garden.
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