Church-hopping in Minas Gerais


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South America » Brazil » Minas Gerais » Ouro Preto
January 10th 2008
Published: January 17th 2008
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The view from the hostel
Last night, after an 11-hour bus ride (yes, 11 hours!!!), I returned to São Paulo from Ouro Prêto, in the Brazilian state of Minas Gerais. After spending New Year at the beach, I thought it would be a good idea to head inwards and get a different taste of Brazil. I still cannot get used to the distances though. Minas Gerias is as big as France and luckily there are night buses because I really cannot imagine what a day trip of 11 hours by bus would be like!!

I'm glad I chose to visit Ouro Prêto in Minas Gerias because I totally fell in love with the history of the place. Here's a bit of it from my Lonely Planet guide book:

"Sometime around 1695, groups of explorers from São Paulo began to make regular excursions into Brazil's untamed interior. These bandeirantes were frontsiermen who roamed the interior lands, enslaving indigenous people and taking hold of precious gems and stones as they traveled. It didn't take long for these bandeirantes to fix upon the large chunks of faisqueiras (sparkles) that lined the beds of rivers flowing down from surrounding mountains.

Slaves were brought from the sugar fields of Bahia and the savannas of Angola, as few Whites did their own mining. Until the last quarter of the 18th century, the slaves of Minas Gerias were digging up half the world's gold.

Minas's gold was siphoned off to Portugal, so the only lasting benefits to come to Brazil were the development of Rio de Janeiro (the main port for the gold) and the creation of the beautiful church-clad mining cities that dot the hills of Minas Gerais."

Why am I not surprised that like all other European colonies, Brazil was also exploited.

= Ouro Prêto =

"The most famous of the historical towns, Ouro Prêto was the stage for the Inconfidência Mineira, an uprising against Portuguese colonization led by the local hero Joaquim José Silva Xavier, more commonly known as Tiradentes."

On top of all this history, the place is absolutely charming and beautiful, especially at dusk. The streets are narrow, the architecture is totally colonial and the surrounding hills make a perfect backdrop. No wonder the city is a world heritage site.

I stayed at the Brumas Hostel, which I totally recommend because it's a really decent place with friendly staff
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I love the way all churches sit on hilltops
and I got to meet so many people. I spent my days walking around the city, trying to visit every church (since each one seems to have its own unique history) and eating traditional Minas food, which I must say is delicious in its simplicity. And at night, we would all go to dinner and chat chat chat about Brazil and about Malta... since of course almost NO ONE has heard of our tiny island.

= Congonhas =

One of the days, I joined a couple (who were travelling by car) on a day trip to Congonhas. I was really thankful that they invited me along because this place is a little hard to reach by bus. I wanted to visit Congonhas, more specifically Aleijadinho's 'Prophets' at the Basilica do Bom Jesus Matosinhos. They are his masterpiece and Brazil's most famed work of art.

"Aleijadinho (Little Cripple) was the son of a Portuguese architect and a black slave. His nickname was given to him sometime in the 1770s when the artist began to suffer from a terrible, debilitating disease... (causing the loss of ) his fingers, toes and the use of his lower legs. Undaunted, Aleijadinho strapped
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The streets of Ouro Preto
hammers and chisels to his arms and continued working."

And what works of art! One must admire such determination! It was well worth being able to appreciate his works up close!

Next destination: Foz do Iguaçu, this time with Samantha, she also arrived today from Malta! 😊


Additional photos below
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The streets of Ouro Preto
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The streets of Ouro Preto
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Colonial houses
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The town is nestled in the most magnificient greenery
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My hostel friends, great company!
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The soapstone market
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Ouro Preto kids, adorable!
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Praça Tiradentes
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View from Museo de Ciência e Técnica
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Fofinho! hehe
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Igreja de São Francisco de Assis - The sacristy is said to be haunted by the spirit of an 18-th century woman.
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Igrejia de Santa Egênia dos Pretos (in the morning mist) - This church was built by and for the Black slave community. Salves contributed to the church by washing their gold-flaked hair in baptismal fonts.
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Igrejia Nossa Senora do Carmo
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Matriz Nossa Senora do Pilar - This is the second-most opulent church in Brazil in terms of gold (434kg of gold and silver).
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Santuário de Nossa Senora da Conceição
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Igreja de São Franscisco de Paula
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Aleijandinho's 'The Prophets'


18th January 2008

wow
sounds like you're having a wonderful time :-) ahhh what fun! Can't wait to go abroad again :-D lots of huggies from Malta xxxxxxx
18th January 2008

w o w
wow , i can t believe it brazil is exactly like I always imagined it!so alive and beautiful - have fun dear and live every little moment!
19th January 2008

running around!
speachless eh! places you been at look sooo nice from your pics. Can't imagine being there live. enjoy to the max (as i'm sure you've been doing already) :) c ya back in malta
18th June 2008

aaammaziing just got back
yes ouro Pret i spent some time here, i realised there really is a God, the churches are amazing .. This place really touched my heart .....

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