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Published: February 26th 2009
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Further apologies for the lack of news, but last week was carnaval, and that is in Brazil an excuse for absolutely anything.
Salvador carnaval is different from the stereotype of the Brazilian samba folly that is generally seen from outside the country. Here, there is almost no samba. Instead, they have Trios Eletricos. The concept started in the 1940s' when two musicians, Dodó and Osmar, got the idea of putting a couple of loudspeakers on an old Ford 1929 car, and playing into them. The idea became an instant success, and the trios grew larger and louder until today, when the trios play on top of giant customised trucks with monumental soud systems.
There are several ways to enjoy Salvador carnaval. One can simply go on the street and dance around as a 'pipoca' (pop corn) in the huge crowds. Loads of fun, but can be dangerous if you don't like being pushed around, if you're worried about pickpockets, and if you're a girl (some guys just make the most out of the confusion). Otherwise, the best option is to be part of a 'bloco'. A bloco is the following around a trio eletrico. In order to do so,
you will need to buy an (expensive) 'abadá', a special T-shirt, that will give you access to the bloco, which is separated from the rest of the crowd by a rope held up and guarded by many helpers. This way, you can follow a band around without having to worry about pickpockets and overcrowding - it is really loads of fun! Thirdly, you can just stay in a 'camarote', an area set up for you to look down on the passing trios and blocos, generally with open bar and their own disco. That is an interesting option if you want to see as many blocos as possible without the hassle of being part of the pipoca.
Salvador is certainly not as well known as Rio in terms of carnaval, and it definitely does not have the glitter and grandeur of the huge samba school parades. It is, however, the largest street carnaval in Brazil (and possibly the world), as Rio's main events are contained in the giant Sambodromo. Two million people participate yearly in this insanity during which many Brazilians spend their yearly savings just to be in a good bloco.
The most popular music here is Axé
music, and that is what is overwhelmingly played by the trios eletricos. Axé music is difficult to define, but I would say it sounds like a pop-rock-reggae blend which does not lead to any superb result, but provides many catchy tunes to which you can sing and dance along when you have drunk too much.
The most famous band is definitely Chiclete com Banana, which has the biggest following. Next, Ivete Sangalo, who started in Banda Eva in the 80s. Asa de Águia is also nowadays more and more popular, and their bloco is one of the most entertaining. Timbalada (I was part of their bloco) is also good fun, and other famous names would include Daniela Mercury, Margareth Menezes (who first started a free fantasy gay and lesbian bloco), and Carlinhos Brown.
Then, there is a serie of more interesting blocos afros. The most famous of these are the Filhos de Gandhy, named after someone of certain importance from India. This group, founded in 1948, was partly political and aimed at importing the ideals of peace and non-violence resistance to a country still heavily marked by oppression of the black population. Today, sixty years later, that side
of the Filhos still remains, but many men (only men can be part of it) simply see it as an occasion to wear the cool white-with-blue lookalike turban, dress and beads, very popular with girls here. Furthermore, the Filhos de Gandhy still carry a lot of respect from the rest of the population, and no one tries to steal from them. Other blocos afros include the percussion school Olodum and Ilê Aiyê.
Needless to say, I had a great time. I started off with apprehension as everyone I seemed to speak to told me constantly to be careful during carnaval, but everything went well, violence and theft-free, and I am now well versed in the domain of axé music (absolutely no use, and frankly mediocre music, but could be used in parties). I am now in Lençois, in the Parque National da Chapada Diamantina, far away from the confusion of the last few days. I had, despite the violence and the great care with which I had to tread the streets, a good time. I will miss my excellent teacher Sheila's lessons, and I feel that I have learned greatly. I have also made good friends there, but I
am sure I shall meet them again. A new part of the trip begins now.
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