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Published: October 27th 2008
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Chapada Diamantina 9-18 Oct 08 We could have stayed in Lencois forever, but we came here for the trekking so after 3 nights at the wonderful Canto No Bosque Pousada, the packs were back on and we set of again, this time for Fumaca, Brazil’s 2nd highest waterfall, and beyond that the legendary Vale (Valley) do Paty. We’d strongly considered taking a guide at first, and in the first couple of days in Lencois we met with at least 4 different agencies to compare offers. Something crazy must have happened to the currency lately, because even now in low season, prices are almost 10 times what out 2004 guide book says. Anyway, since we had all the necessary equipment already, a detailed topographical map and plenty of experience using one, we decided to go on our own. The map I found in the local camping shop is called Mapa Ecoturistico do Circuito do Diamante, and was printed in 2004 by Trilhas e Caminhos. It’s scale is 1:100 000, so it lacks smaller detail, but it has all the major features and the walking trails are very accurate because they’re the ones all the trekking agencies use. It turned out to
Honeymoon suite
Our cave on the first night be the best 12 Real I’ve spent yet, because it meant we could take our time in the mountains instead of trying to keep up with a guide. Also, we could save our money for a nice hotel, a steak and a massage when we get back, instead of paying to eat pasta and camp in a cave. Julie took some convincing, until we found out about the money we had stolen in Salvador, and she eventually agreed.
The tracks turned out to be more or less easy to follow. A few times I had to leave Julie with the packs and scout ahead a bit, but this was all part of the challenge. We could collect drinking water from most of the creeks even in dry season, although it was a bit red from the iron content and we added purification tablets just to be safe. We found caves to sleep in at regular intervals, each with a fire place for cooking and fuel able to be collected easily from deadfall nearby. We took our own gas stove anyway just in case. The last 2 hours to the bottom of Fumaca was a particular challenge due to the
dense rainforest, but after 2 days I’d got the hang of following the faint but existing track. It was definitely worth it. The waterfall was spectacular even though it was little more than a trickle, and appeared to turn into smoke (hence the name) halfway down the 300-odd metre fall, before trickling down the walls into a big black lake. The next day’s hike to the top was exausting, and we joined the day-trippers from the town of Capao in marvelling at the spectacle, with the satisfaction of knowing we’d seen it from the bottom first.
After a days rest in Capao, staying in a sweet little bungalow we rented from a hippy named Xeo, we continued south to the hidden and mysterious Vale do Paty. It really is hidden; a lush green gorge sunken into the earth and surrounded by majestic stony pillars rising from a flat desert scape that has more than a passing resemblance to the wild wild west. And it really is mysterious because just what is it that makes all the guides call it the 3rd trek in the world behind a walk done by pilgrims in Spain and another to visit ruins in
Peru? We raced the setting sun for the last 5km to get to the valley (distances out there are very deceiving), and almost collapsed into our room when we arrived at Wilson guesthouse and were met by our amazing local host, Donna Maria. She put on one hell of a feast for dinner and we were in bed by 7:30pm. The next day we climbed the death defying Morro da Lapinha, known to everyone as the Castello for it’s resemblance to a castle, where we lunched at the entrance to a huge cave and then followed it through to the other side of the mountain. On day 3 in the valley, we trekked to Donna Maria’s sister’s guesthouse at the other end of the valley, staying in the house where the ladies were apparently born, and then out of the valley to the town of Andarai .
All up we saw 10 waterfalls, one bush fire, 5 snakes, 3 of the 11 species of humming birds here and received at least 100 mozzie bites each. There’s been 2 days of rain out of 17 since we arrived and other than that, the weather’s been awesome. If you don’t get
Home sweet home
Our cave on the 2nd night injured or lost, the only other major hazard is flash flooding, which I hear happens during high (wet) season, making it a bad idea to camp in river beds. All the other trekkers we met were happy with their guides, so I would only recommend going alone if you’re very fit, well equipped and you know what your doing.
Now, where’s that barman with my caipirinha? I hope I don’t have to get out of this hammock and find him!
Dreaming of an adventure like ours? Find out how we did it at
JulieAndDariansWorldTourGuide.com
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Nanna
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Wow!!
How are you ever going to settle to a 9 to 5 job in an office after this? I found it hard enough after 5 weeks away. Love, Nanna