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Published: August 29th 2010
La Paz Finally it’s time to move onto South America, the part of my journey that I’ve been really looking forward to for many reasons. La Ciudad de Nuestra Senora de La Paz (the City of Our Lady of Peace) at around 3,600m (12,000ft) feels like the top of the world. It's not far from it, and vies with Tibet for title of highest capital in the world. But La Paz is the centre of commerce, finance and industry with an abundance of colonial architecture, And I have to say, I really like it. I was a little nervy at first due to the comments on various websites including Lonely Planet and Rough Guide but never once felt uncomfortable.
The area was really nice, the Witches Market was interesting as was some of the beautiful architecture, and San Francisco Cathedral. The city is full of markets full of the weird and wonderful, everything from potions to incantations made from herbs, seeds and unidentified bits and pieces to cure any ailment. There is also a Carnaval market selling colourful carnival costumes, vibrant ponchos, gloves and hats and I’m now the proud owner of several alpaca products!!
Then off to
Death Road I go for a leisurely ride down the worlds most dangerous road. Starting at 4,700m the sales pitch says ‘you’ll see fantastic views of a number of snow-covered peaks’. Well, not only did we see ‘em but we were amongst the bloody snow…..and I froze my poor little nuts off!! But at least that was on the safe part, the asphalt, so we get used to our bikes before we get to the bit we’ve all paid for….that little brush with death! This infamous narrow dirt road is cut precariously into the side of the mountain and descends 2,000m (6,500 feet). With 1,000m+ (3,300 feet) sheer drops off to your left and hulking rock overhangs and cascading waterfalls to our right, we ride through mist, low cloud and dust. Some of South America s most dramatic and beautiful scenery as you hurtle down the road, which I have to say you’re often too scared to look at for fear of going over the edge. Fortunately for us the majority of traffic has stopped driving down this road in 2007 which mean we don’t have that additional fear. Eventually we finish at 1100m, knackered but exhilarated that we survived
and get our pictures and much wanted T shirt!!
I had a few lunch/beer stops in Olivers Travels bar, which, I have to say, were great. Even if I did have a run in with a pissed up f*cker. I mean, I can’t believe that I’ve been travelling for 7 months and the only trouble I get is with a British dude….and a pissed up one at that!!! Talk about stereotypical. Anyways, it was nothing bad, so alls well and ends well. And what is it with the French…..everywhere we go we meet French people. Unbelievable!
Sucre An short overnight bus (approx. 9-10 hours) and we arrive in Sucre mid afternoon to find quite a different city from La Paz. Colonial buildings aplenty as the majority have been whitewashed, which is why Sucre is known as the ‘White City’. One evening we head to a restaurant at the top of the hill giving us great views of the city at night and possibly the cheapest and best meal in South America so far!
Our time in Sucre was really one of relaxation, building up to our tour of the salt flats, so it gave us time
to recharge camera batteries, haggle for goods at the local markets, visit the local mint museum, test the Bolivian Pizza’s & beer.
Potosi A short journey on the local bus brings us to Potosi. The hostel is nice and comfortable bit with limited internet connection, which is slow, though that is to be expected. So, a little about Potosi………Potosi is a small mining city, once a renowned silver-rich city with a turbulent past, particularly in the mining industry as many numbers of indigenous people died so they shipped in African slaves to do the work, who obviously fared no better. Nowadays they mine for tin but I declined from going down the mines (as a tourist, not a miner……I’ve not run out of money just yet!!) Therefore I decided to stay above ground and absorb the local cuisine and take lots and lots of piccies of the streets and buildings, including a trip in to the Casa Nacional de Moneda (The Mint).
There are some beautiful buildings around and many market stalls selling the gorgeous alpaca clothing, which are now making my already heavy bag bulge all the more! Oh my god….another bus journey awaits…..although sometimes
these local buses are fairly modern, they do get jam packed with locals, sometimes along with their chicken dinner……the chicken not yet knowing that its soon to become dinner!! Still, at 6 hours this is positively short…..I have other bus journeys that apparently can take upto 24 hours!!! See you in Uyuni. J
Uyuni / Salar de Uyuni After a pleasant and scenic ride though the Bolivian countryside we reach Uyuni for a night. The following day is the start of a 3 day tour of the Salt Flats and the Atacama Desert. All packed and ready to roll in a Toyota Landcruiser 4WD and off we roll. First stop is a small cemetery for trains…..a trainspotters paradise I imagine, or their worst nightmare?!! Who knows….who cares?!! Not me. Anyways, I digress….
After a short break taking pics of the dead trains we climb back aboard the LC and head off for the home of the salt miners…..the worlds largest salt flats! First stop is a view of the miners at work, piling mound after mound of salt, ready for the trucks to pick it up and move it onto the next preparation stage. Next to it is
the Hotel de Sal built from salt blocks and complete with its own museum. Flags aplenty adorn the surroundings. We drive on and the view is incredible. The white salt ground stretches as far as the eye can see until it meets the endless beautiful blue skies…..which nothing spoiling the view. As we drive on your eyes take a while to adjust to the whiteness of this prehistoric lake, one almost suffering from bouts of snow blindness…..shades here are a must! In the distance a hazy view shaped like a mountain……then more……what is it. Others aboard the LC are asleep but I care not as I’m mesmerized by the flats, the shapes of the lines in the ground and this dark shape coming towards us.
It’s not long before we reach what is known as Incahuasi, an island in the middle(ish) of the salt flats, where we stop for lunch consisting of salad and bar-b-que’d Llama. Nice. It is here that we can all stop for the obligatory perspective-defying photos.
After another long drive we eventually reach our Salt hotel for the night, which is basic but very comfortable. After dinner and a game of cards we settle,
along with many other tourists, for the night, ready for the next stage and a drive onwards with a view of some truly stunning landscapes. Active volcanoes, Geysers and hot spring pools at over 4500m above sea level. The air is cool and the hot springs are a pleasure to experience. Just a shame that we I had to witness several hairy arsed tourist (male and female………!!!) changing by the spring. My god, for a moment I thought I’d gone blind!! Alas, its all part of the experience I guess?!! Anyways, we stop by the Laguna Colorada; a rich red lake which changes colour according to the winds. This place is home to many different wildlife, including flamingo’s, which there is an abundance of. We also stop by Laguna Verde, a bluey-green lake, also mineral rich. Among the mountains we see Llama, some funny long tailed rabbits among the rocky landscape where we stop for lunch. Unfortunately I cannot remember the name of the place but it was stunning, Llamas and donkeys but still no Puma.
Sadly we have to return to Uyuni for the night, although it’s a short night as at 2am we’re catching the overnight train
to Tupiza. Fortunately our stay in Tupiza is a short one as there is little to do here other than eat and take pictures. Unfortunately tomorrow is going to be a long old day for we cross the border into Argentina and to the city of Salta.
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mandy
non-member comment
great photos
Hey Wayne, I've finally had a chance to look at your blog. Great photos!!! So happy you are enjoying your adventure! Cheers!!! Mandy