Bolivian taxis = converted European cars (ie steering wheel ripped out of the right and installed on the left)

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Well, it's been a bit since we've written. Partly because there wasn't a ton to write about, partly because we were in a fight with Bolivia for a bit and a third part because we just didn't feel like it. But, we got all packed up to get on a noon bus today that turns out won't be leaving until 7pm (something about a block on the road--we don't even get into it anymore) so some time opened up today.

Cochabamba: This city is overlooked by a huge statue of Christ with outstretched arms. It was a pretty hip place with lots of cafès, clothing stores, movie theaters, etc. Also, there was quite a bar culture-we happened into a bar where young, chic Bolivians were doing flights of shots and playing dice games. Conversely, we saw the movie Che, El Argentino and when the lights went on we realized we were the youngest people in the theater by about 50 years. There was a great plaza with an active political culture. We asked for the leftest newspaper and the woman sold us the most conservative paper they had (we learned from a friendly guy who saw what we were carrying). It was in that paper that we first read of the dengue fever outbreak throughout most of the regions in Bolivia we would be spending the next few weeks in. Of Cochabamba we remember that the garden of our hostal had avocado trees and there was chocolate fondue everywhere.

Sucre: It was quite the adventure just getting to Sucre. We took the overnight bus to save on lodging and because it's a 10 hour ride (usually). We were supposed to leave at 8pm, actually left at 9:30pm, the bus broke down at 11:30pm, we waited 2 hours for another to come for us and took off again at 1:30am only to have the bus break down a few times along the way, including one hour away from Sucre the next morning. We got into Sucre at 1pm the next day (just 5 blocks shy of the bus terminal it finally went kaput).

Carnival was in full effect in Sucre. This means that (mostly) young people throw water balloons at each other and employ the occasional bucket or water gun. We were carnival victims a few times in this town, but the real clincher was when a little girl about 5 years old tried to hit John but missed. Her mother (a grown woman, might we remind you) then picked up a balloon, ran after him and smashed it on his back. Wow! If only Sucre were always that exciting. Mostly we relaxed at our hostel (nestled amongst the law offices of Sucre) where we met a really cool Brazilian couple named Pedro and Verena. We did venture out to the bizarre amusement park based around the actually quite impressive dinosaur tracks.

In Sucre we had quite a few interesting conversations. At one point we were surrounded by shoe shine boys who were trying to impress us with their geography and soccer knowledge (John was wearing a Boca Juniors jersey) when an ancient indigenous man came up to sell us his weavings. I was reading the paper and since I didn't seem too interested in buying he sat down next to me and asked ¨What is happening in my country? I don't read at all.¨ I told him the new Constitution won with 62% voting for it. ¨Did you vote?¨ I asked. ¨Yes, I voted for Evo. All the campesinos vote for Evo¨ was the reply. (Obviously this is a conversation translated from Spanish.) And we went on to talk about how luckily about 60%!o(MISSING)f Bolivia is made up of campesinos (indigenous people from the countryside) so they should always win, theoretically. Of course, the conversation inevitably took a turn when he showed us his prescription for medicine and asked for money to pay for it.

Potosì: It was a beautiful 4 hour bus ride from Sucre to Potosì. As we curved around the mountains, climbing up to 4060 meters, it began to rain and then hail. The whole road and countryside was covered with snow basically-gorgeous! Seeing the Cerro Rico just poking out of the earth all full of wealth, history and majesty, is really amazing. Even though we've been at high altitudes for most of the 5 weeks of this trip, it hit us hard in Potosì. John couldn't sleep at all, we both got sore throats and congested noses (not necessarily related to altitude, but still), and we generally felt worn out most of the time. I had been here 4 years ago and did a tour of the mine. That is definitely an amazing, but ¨once in a lifetime experience¨that did not bear repeating. So, we saw some museums instead including the Casa de Moneda where they showed how they made the coins and bars of silver/gold, the colonial art and more. It's crazy that Potosì was once one of the richest, most populated cities in the world. It only ever seems bustling here after dark when the streets fill with people. School has started in Bolivia. We are wondering if we'll see any reduction in child labor as it seems lately that every bus, restaurant and store is manned by a child.

We're getting a little bit tired of Bolivia or maybe just of traveling from city to city. The having to buy water, toilet paper, snacks etc. and keep them all close at hand. The passive-aggressive Bolivian people and the bratty foreign tourists that try to walk all over them. The ubiquitous white bread and general lack of nutritional food available. So, that's why we're going to Uyuni tonight. We're going to do the 4 day tour of the salt flats (Salar de Uyuni) to bring back the WoW factor a bit and get back out under the stars.

We're quite missing home these days--all of our friends and family, our apartment (however flooded), neighborhood, City. Write us if you have a chance! We miss you all😊

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Photos

D.A.R.E. in Cochabamba
The picture says it all!

DinoLand - Sucre
Yes...those are dinosaurs you´re seeing.