El día de los muertos


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South America » Bolivia » La Paz Department » La Paz
November 2nd 2006
Published: November 16th 2006
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The bus ride to the cemetary districtThe bus ride to the cemetary districtThe bus ride to the cemetary district

That´s right... the cemetary district. That´s where everything happens on All Soul´s Day (ie. Day of the Dead)
Halloween is not a very popular day here in Boliva, but All Soul´s Day sure is. It is actually a national holiday, and since it was on a Thursday this year, my organization gave me Friday off as well. A long weekend already!!

Anyhow, before I explain how I spent my Day of the Dead, I´ll have to explain the evening before 😊 As it was my friend Lisa´s birthday on Friday and she was out of town for work, we decided that we would celebrate here birthday on Wednesday night. As I walked in the door of my apartment after a day of work, my cell phone rings and it is Lisa and this is how the phone converstaion went:

Patrick: ¡Hola!
Lisa: Where are you?
Patrick: I just got in the door. Why?
Lisa: Alejandro and I were wondering if you could pick up a bottle of wine on the way home from work, but now that your home...
Patrick: That´s fine. I´ll go back to the Plaza to pick up a bottle.
Lisa: OK..make sure you don´t buy the wine we had last time.
Patrick: Don´t worry about that, we won´t make that mistake again. Bye.
Traffic JamTraffic JamTraffic Jam

There was so many people going to the cemetary district that traffic was moving really slowly.

Lisa: Bye.

Since we were celebrating Lisa's birthday, I decided to buy two bottles of wine. That was my first mistake of the evening. Drinking these two bottles of wine with Lisa and Alejandro and only eating cheese and crackers, the alcohol was already affecting me. I blamed it on the altitude. Lisa, being her happy self, decided that we should invite the mexicans from the fourth floor out with us. An invitation out with us, was an invitation in with them for drinks. They were serving some mixture of rum, lemon and sugar. It was really good, but really strong. The second mistake of the evening. Needless to say by the time with left our apartment building, we were all pretty happy people.

We met up with some friends in Plaza Avaroa and went to a bar nearby. A few of us thought it would be fun to play pool. Do you realize how long it takes to play a game of pool after having quite a few drinks. I think in the two and half hours we were at the bar that we finished about four games. My friend Karla and I ended up playing pool
People everywherePeople everywherePeople everywhere

It is hard to imagine how many people are probably here in the Cemetary District. There are vendors selling everything, and for today, lots of people selling flowers.
against two Bolivian guys for the last half on the evening. Finally, we left the bar at around two-thirty in the morning. As Karla was staying at my place for the week, we were walking home together and I was complaining about our friend Véronique coming from Sucre and arriving around 4:30 or 5:00 in the morning. That was only two hours away! Why do I do this to myself?

SLEEP

At seven in the morning, Karla entered my room to tell me that we was going to get her purse at our friend´s hotel and to search for Veronique as she still hadn´t arrived

MORE SLEEP

At eight in the morning, my buzzer rang so I got out of bed to answer the door and it was Véronique. My head was pounding. I told her that I needed a few more hours of sleep before I was functional, she agreed that she need sleep as well so...

MORE SLEEP

At about a quarter after ten, I finally got out of bed. My head was still pounding but not as much. Véronique and I went out to find some food and talked over coffee
The CemetaryThe CemetaryThe Cemetary

This doesn´t look like no North American cemetary. All those squares contain ashes and memoriams for the deceased.
for a few hours before meeting up with friends at their hotel. From here, we walked around the city a bit before jumping on a bus to go to the cemetary district. I think we picked that bus that took the longest route because most of the time we didn´t seem to be going in the direction of the cemetary. Finally we arrived in the cemetary district to find out that everybody else in La Paz was here as well. Outside the cemetary there were people selling everything, especially flowers. The cemetary is unlike anything I have ever seen before. No tombstones, no nicely cut grass, just what look like little windows in large walls where family placed photos of the deceased, flowers, and everything else under the sun. It is hard to believe that most people in Bolivia go to the cemetary to visit their deceased all on the same day!

After leaving the cemetary, we thought it would be more interesting if we returned to the city center on foot. On the way, there were people selling everything, vegetables, peanuts, CD´s containing MP3s, copys of DVDs, candy, popcorn, jewelry, clothes, toys, everything. There was one place where
The CemetaryThe CemetaryThe Cemetary

Alejandra looks really interested in one of the "houses" for the deceased.
we could see Mont Illimani very well. I don´t think that I can take enough pictures of this mountain. It is so beautiful! Most liketly, it was quicker for us to return to the city center on foot rather than take a bus because that traffic was absolutly horrible on this day.

The rest of the day was pretty quiet. Karla cooked supper for the group and then everyone called it a night, as most of us were still feeling tired from the night before.


(En español)
Halloween no es un día popular acá en Bolivia, pero El Día de los Muertos es. Es un día de vacaciones nacional y ya que estaba en jueves este año, mi organización me dio un otro día de vacación en viernes.

De todos modos, antes que explico que hice el Día de los Muertos, debe explicar la noche anterior 😊 Estubó el cumpleaños de mi amiga Lisa en viernes pasado y ella estaba al fuera de La Paz con su trabajo, nosotros decidimos que celebrarámos su cumpleaños miercoles por la noche. El momento que entraba en mi apartamento el miercoles por la noche después un día de trabajo, Lisa me llamó y está es la conversación:

Patrick: ¡Hola!
Lisa: ¿Dondé estás?
Patrick: Ya llegué a casa a este momento. Porqué?
Lisa: Alejandro y yo nos preguntábamos si tú puedas comprar una botella de vino antes de regresar a su casa, pero ahora que estás en casa...
Patrick: Es bueno. Iré a regresar a la plaza para comprar una botella.
Lisa: OK..no compras una botella como el ultimó vez,
Patrick: Ne te preocupes de eso, no vamos a hacer este error un otra vez. ¡Chau!
Lisa: ¡Chau!.

Ya que estabámos celebrando el cumpleaños de Lisa, decidé a comparar dos botellas de vino. Eso está mi primero error de la noche. Después de beber los dos botellas de vino con Lisa y Alejandro, comiendo solamente el queso y las galletas, el alcohol ya me estaba afectando. Eché la culpa a la altitura aquí. Lisa, feliz como todo el tiempo, decidío a invitar los mexicanos del cuarto piso a salir con nosotros. Una invitación de salir con nosotros estaba una invitación para entrar en su apartamento para las bebidas. Ellos servían un mixto de ron, limon y azucar. Estaba muy bueno, pero muy fuerte. El segundo error de la noche. Está de más decir que por la hora que salimos nuestro edificio, nosotros estábamos muy feliz.

Nosotros encontramos con algunos amigos a la Plaza Avaros y fuímos a un bar cercano. Algunos de nosotros pensamos que estaría divertido a jugar el billar. ¿Realiza Ud. cúanto tiempo está necesario a jugar el billar después de beber algunas bebidas. Pienso que en las dos horas y media que nosotros jugamos el billar, nosotros acabamos cuatro juegos. Mi amiga Karla y you dejeron el bar a las dos y media de la mañana. Como Karla se quedaba conmigo esta semana, nosotros estábamos caminando juntos a casa y me quejaba sobre de nuestra amiga Véronique venido de Sucre y llegando a las cuatro y media o cinco de la madrugada. ¡Estaba en dos horas! ¿Porqué hago está a mí mismo?

SUEÑO

A las siete de la mañana, Karla entró en mi habitación para decir que ella iba a encontrar su bolsa en el hotel de nuestros amigos y para buscar para Véronique ya que no ya ha llegado.

MÁS SUEÑO

A las ocho de la mañana, mi timbre tocó pues me dejé mi cama para abrir la puerta y estaba Véronque. Me duele mucho la cabeza. Dije que yo necisté más sueño para estar funcional, ella está acuerdo sobre eso porque ella necesitaba más sueño también, pues...

MÁS SUEÑO

A las diez y cuarto, me acosté. Me duele la cabeza pero menos que anterior. Véronique y yo ibamos para encontrar la comida y nosotros hablamos con el café antes de encontrar nuestros amigos a su hotel. Para allí, nosotros caminamos sobre la ciudad un poco antes de saltar en un autobus hasta el barrio cementario. Pienso que nosotros colocamos el autobus con la ruta más larga porque nosotros viajamos en el otra direccón para la mayoría de la viaje. Finalemente, llegamos al barrio cementario y supimos que todo el mundo de La Paz estaba aquí también. A fuera del cementario, había mucha gente que vendaba todos, especialmente los flores. El cementario es diferente a cualquier cosa que he mirado anterior. No lápidas, no hierba cortado bien, solamente las ventanas en los muros donde las familías ponen las fotos del muerto, los flores, y cualquier otros cosas. Es dificíl a creer que la mayoría de la gente en Bolivia van a los cementarios a visitar sus muertos todos en el mismo día.

Después que dejamos el cementario, nosotros pensábamos que estaba muy interesente si nosotros regresamos en pies hasta el centro. Hasta el centro, había la gente que vendaba todos, las verduras, los manís, los CDs de MP3, las copías de DVD, las bombones, palomitas, las joyas, las ropas, los juguetes, todos. Había un lugar donde podíamos ver Nevado Illimani. ¡No pienso que pueda tomar bastante fotos de este nevado! Probablemente, estaba muy rapido a bajar en pies en vez de tomar un autobús porque el trafico estaba horrible este día.

El resto del día estaba tranquilo. Karla cociné la cena para el group y después la cena, todos
acababan la noche porque la mayoría de nosotros estábamos muy cansados de la noche anterior.





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It is really hard to describe how big this cemetary was. At the main entrance there were giving out maps...that´s how large it is.
Balloons anyone!Balloons anyone!
Balloons anyone!

I gotta say, you´ll find people selling anything in this city.


20th November 2006

awesome!
Hey Pat, awesome pictures, Hope all is going well and that it's nice and warm down there on the south side (:

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