The Yungas Valley

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After completing the "World´s most dangerous road" ride we felt we´d spend a day chilling in Coroico, firstly because of lot of the rest of the tour group were and we wanted to have a few drinks with them but also because we were so terrified about making the bus journey back up the road we´d just cycled down.

Hotel Esmerelda is perched on a cliffside, has spectacular views of the Yungas valley and is also the proud owner of a swimming pool and sauna - both Laura and I felt we deserved a bit of luxury after over a month of tepid showers (on the whole), basic breakfasts (jam and bread) and cramped rooms. As it turned out, our extra investment in this particular hotel didn´t particularly pay-off since we got one of the shabbier rooms and the swimming pool ended being a feeding frenzy for local sand fly. Both Laura and myself are now covered in little bites which we can´t stop itching - the little beggars really chomp at you, believe me!

We decided to make a little recommended excursion into the Yungas valley to go and find a series of waterfalls, three to be exact just a skip and jump away from the hotel. It was our first venture into the countryside without a guide and we felt liberated at last; enjoying the peace and tranquility of the Yungas hills. Our mini-trek took us past coca plantations with their stepped terrace structures and a small shack presumeably for the farmer to rest in when he ventured to see the crop´s progress. Laura picked a coca leaf and visions of "The Beach" started flying through my mind - I kept my eyes peeled for a big Bolivian drug lord with his AK47 but nobody appeared to my relief. To be honest the vast majority of the coca grown in this region is grown for purely legal purposes and only a small amount escapes and goes into the cocaine production to feed those hungry Yanks (they snort/inject 50% of the world´s cocaine). Bolivia is a small player in the cocaine trade these days after they cooperated with the US government and pretty much ceased all cocaine production. As it turned out the demand that was still there in the States, left a supply gap that Colombia kindly stepped in to fill, now nearly 90% comes from Colombia and it doesn´t look like Bolivia´s gesture has made any difference to the situation overall. If anything it has just made Bolivians much poorer and it seems now that the US are rightly trying to sort out the demand side instead of the supply.

Our walk eventually led us through high waves of grass and trees around a hillside path to the first of our three waterfalls and the chief water supply for Coroico below. Pipes and water sanitation equipment slightly spoilt the beauty of the spot but the noise of the water crashing onto the rocks is quite spectacular. Unfortunately because the pools weren´t deep enough and also fenced off, we were unable to strip off and do our Peter Andre impressions!

The second waterfall was even more spectacular and less inteference by man meant it was more authentic but again (probably for safety reasons) the pools were fenced off and the dip we´d been promised by the guide book was not possible.

As far for the third waterfall... well... we bottled it (nice pun I know)! We daren´t traverse the fast-flowing second waterfall and climb the slippery rock face beyond for fear of plummeting into the icy and rocky waters below. Yes Mum and Dad, common-sense does prevail from time-to-time!!!

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Photos

Coroico
...clings to the hillside in the cloud forest of the Yungas valley.

Hotel Esmerelda
Our lodgings after completing the "World´s most dangerous road" mountain bike descent - a nice place to relax and tend to those muscular aches and pains.

Grass Blowing in the Wind
Hayfever Red Alert!

A Large Bird in Flight
We like to think it was a condor but the likelihood is, it´s a big ugly vulture.

Waterfall #2
The large spots are from the splattering of water on the lens of the camera. This waterfall was fierce!

Comments

[The Taylors]

The bike ride!
My God I had an attack of vertigo just looking at the infamous photos of your bike trip! Thank goodness you've done that. Did Laura enjoy her birthday? We sent her an e-mail but not sure if it reached her. It's actually warm here at last-long may it reign. Hope your'e both keeping well and not too bitten by insects. Love from us all xx