Lake Titicaca - The Best Trout Ever

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After watching the England game, I left La Paz and took a bus to Copacabana, which is small, captivating town on Lake Titicaca. Copacabana is the best spot in Bolivia from which to see the lake and visit Isla del Sol, which is where the Incas believed the sun was born.

Lake Titicaca itself is quite simply the most beautiful lake I have seen. Not only is it the highest navigable lake in the world at 3,820m above sea level, it is also huge, covering an area of over 8,500 sq km. Its waters are the deepest, richest shade of blue I've seen; and because the air is so clear at this altitude, when the sun catches the surface of the lake, a billion sparkling stars appear in front of you. It is incredible.

Lake Titicaca is famous for farming "trucha criolla", which is one of the largest species of trout in the world. I thought it would be rude not to try it, so I went to one of the many stalls along the lakeshore. I had a plate of frest trout, chips, rice and salad for less than 1 pound. I thought it would be rude not to have another helping.

The next day I hiked to Isla del Sol. You have to walk 17km from Copacabana to Yampupata. This part of the walk takes you along the coastline, passing a couple of rural villages. The views are muy lindo. Once I reached Yampupata, I had to take a row-boat across to Isla del Sol. I entered the island of the south part. I had planned to spend a night on the island, so I decided to make my way north and find somewhere to stay there.

The trail took me along the coast and through three more villages. It was amazing to see all these "campesinos" (villagers), going about their normal day, oblivous to the goings on of the outside world. The campesinos may lack material wealth, but everyone of them that I see and meet has a smile on their face and looks happy with their lot.

I reached the village of Cha'llampa. I was the only tourist staying in the village. At the time I didn't think anything of it, but I later found out that there is bad blood running between the villages in the north and the south, so much so that tour companies only go to the southern part, where most people end up staying. After watching the sunset and then having some more trout for dinner, there wasn't much else to do but sleep.

I awoke the next morning to the thunderous sound of rain. My experience of altiplano weather so far had been nothing but clear blue skies, so I hadn't brought any rainproof gear. Staying on the island for another day was not an option as I had forgot to change money before I left, and had just enough for a meal and my boat ride back to the mainland. Luckily it stopped, so I set off and headed to the Chancana ruins, where the Incas believed the sun was born. As I approached the ruins, I saw a mass storm headed my way. It started to rain just as I got there, so at least I had some shelter. I waited for 3 hours for the storm to pass. I was so bored as I had nothing to read or listen to. The storm finally passed and blue skies appeared. The walk back to the pier took me over the mountains, where I had awesome views of the lake. I stopped at Yumani, the village in the south, for another dose of trucha a la plancha, before catching the boat back.

The next day I left Copacabana and Bolivia for Peru. The bus stopped in Puno, which is on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca. From here, I went on a whistle-stop tour of Islas Flotantes. These are a collection of 40 islands, made entirely out of reeds. They are inhibited by a tribe who left the mainland 1,500 years ago to escape conflict with other local tribes. The reeds that are found in this area are used to make the islands, houses, boats and even for food. It was a very touristy experience, but interesting nonetheless.

Back on the bus, we carried on to Cusco.....

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Photos

Cha'llampa
View of the village where I stayed

Stuck at the Chancana Ruins
Travelling is not all fun and play