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Published: June 15th 2010
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Disclaimer: This last weekend I took over 300 pictures. The pictures did not capture the brilliance or magnificence…so I will try my best with words. No promises.
After this weekend I have a WHOLE new perspective on South America and the beauty. While living in La Paz I have experienced the difference in urban life; the hustle and bustle of the busy city, dodging traffic with their screeching horns, bartering in the jam packed markets, or sniffing out the light-fingered strangers. BUT, with this weekend it was as if I was picked up, and dropped in the exact center of tranquility.
We all decided to splurge and get a private bus. And by splurge I mean $30 a piece-beyond worth it in my opinion. This private bus turned out to be our red beast! A 9-passenger van with off-road tires, complete with a charming driver named Victor.
The journey to Copacabana (A small town right on the lake where we planned to stay the first night-about a 3 hour average trip) was a combination between a rollercoaster ride, bumper cars, horseback riding, and comedy movie with the most amazing views along the way. About an hour outside of our destination
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Driving through El Alto-we hit a traffic jam.
was the ODDEST experience. We had to deboard the beast, pay $1.50 Bs. (about 25 cents) and take a little motor boat across the river, while our vehicle had to take a different boat. LITERALLY, the van/bus was driven onto a platform-type-boat and sailed across the river as we watched from our own boat. Quite hilarious.
The last leg into Copacabana was 90 degree turns with 200 foot drop offs on either side of the road, and Victor may, or may not have driven in the wrong lane a time or two. A joy ride for sure!
Arriving into the city we were dropped off at our hotel-Hotel Gloria….STRONG STRONG STRONG RECOMMEDNATION!!!!!!!! This place rocked. A large great room with a wall-of-windows looking out at Lake Titicaca, FREE buffet breakfast, a beautiful room that fit all 6 of us, with DOWN comforters, and a super friendly team of employees.
We dropped our stuff and went out to discover the enchanting little town. We had to fight daylight which did not give us nearly enough time, but at least got us to a cute restaurant to enjoy some trout. Not being much of a fish fan, I would still recommend the
“local delicacy” to anyone!
Saturday, we hit the sapphire water to “Isla del Sol.” This island is said to be the birthplace of the sun itself. This island holds 2500 residents split between the northern shore and the southern shore-which makes for the perfect 21 km hike. This is the point in the weekend where I felt like the smallest person in the big giant world. Our little wooden motor boat navigated through the crystal water which straddles Bolivia land to the right and Peru land to the left, until we arrived at the northern shore. In a 360 degree angle around me was dazzling beauty. Water encased with uninhabited mountains and as far as I could see snowcapped mountains. Not another human being in sight beyond the passengers of the tiny boat. I kept expecting to see a water-skier or a pontoon or SOMETHING, rather calm water and steep natural slopes.
We began our trek from the northern tip about 45 min farther to various Incan ruins. Somewhere along the way we were lucky enough to attract our own little tour guide-“Saysar”-a 10 year old going on 40 who knew more about the island than the 3 Lonely Planet
Bolivia Guide books we had.
At one point he led us up a small stone stairway which we all thought was the steps into his house or yard, kept walking past a little vegetable garden with a women working in it, through a little gate (and I am wondering where I am going at this point) to a small field with a stone standing upright in the center of it. Here, this lil guy told us the history of this being the “Piedra Sagrada” or Sacred Stone. This has history of being an execution block for those convicted of wrongdoing. We all just sat there with our mouths hanging open. THIS WAS AMAZING.
The day went along with bright sun (obviously being the birthplace and all) and other Incan historical pieces including:
-Palacio Del Inca: a maze of stone walls and tiny doorways. The inlets were supposedly bedrooms; the people would sit in their individual one and lean up against the wall and sleep.
-Mesa Ceremonica: The ceremonial table which was the site of animal OR HUMAN sacrificesYOIKES
-Cara de Viracocha: This Face of Viracocha or Puma. Sure took my imagination to see-but Saysar said it was pretty clear.
After
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Erin and I on our boat... we made the turn to start heading South, Saysar had to stay with his family and we were on our own!
The hike got more difficult from there with much steeper climbs. The best part was taking a break and looking up from the trail-BAM! Beautiful view. BAM Beautiful view. We stopped for lunch (which we had packed ourselves) at a random spot on the trail. It was spectacular views all around and we were the only people in sight. Such a cool feeling to be eating a lil sandwich and looking at the immense lake with Peru on the other side.
The trek ended in the town on Yumani, a tiny little town built on a hill. We found a hostel to stay in for the night, and lucky for Erin and I, we nabbed the matrimony suite! This room had windows on 3 of the walls with a direct view of Lake Titicaca! We roamed around the city that night, stopping for supper, shopping and a couple different times, dodging herds of RUNNING donkeys.
Sunday morning a small group of us got up at 6:00am, bundled up and sat outside our hostel, which was on top of the
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The beast on its own boat! huge mountain, and watched the sunrise over Lake Titicaca. Absolutely stunning and again, the ONLY people in sight.
We caught a boat back to the mainland of Copacabana and had the afternoon there to explore the Cathedral, eat lunch, and shop the markets!
We missed mass at the Cathedral by an hour, but that particular Sunday was a vehicle blessing! Cars lined the streets around the cathedral all decorated like they were in a wedding procession and the priest came by with Holy Water, said a prayer and blessed the car. Instantly following, the family of that car would light off fire crackers! Really neat experience.
We were not allowed to take pictures inside the Cathedral-but instead I took photographic memory shots. Beautiful high vaulted ceilings with bright orange beams contrasted with a sky blue ceiling. Gold accents at the alter (which reminded me of the Cathedral in Santiago in Spain) the aisles were porcelain ceramic tile. Vases of fresh flowers were propped by each religious statue. A gorgeous building!
This Cathedral also had a black Virgin de Candelaria statue. It is said to never have been moved from the cathedral as the superstition says disturbance would result in
a MASSIVE flood of Lake Titicaca.
All too soon the beast was parked outside the Cathedral ready to make the expedition back to La Paz.
Such a marvelous first weekend adventure!
Love from Bolivian Bear
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Caminoer
non-member comment
Nice!
Love the victory pose.... I appreciate the 10 second sprint!