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Published: August 24th 2006
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Up close to a puma
OK so it is through the bars, but still close enough to get a lick and hear hom purr At last I am warm again, the only slight disadvantage is that I can't enjoy it fully because I'm actually working, as a volunteer in a wild animal refuge in the Bolivian jungle...
...I'm behind on my blogs, so the plan is to bring you all upto date about where I am now, and then go back and fill in the gaps when I have more time later. Means that there will be a confusing time distortion, but I trust that you will all be able to cope without too many problems.
After a week in the Altiplano, in freezing temperatures and high altitude, we have eventually found warmth again. Zoe and I arrived in Cochabamba, Bolivia after a nightmare journey from Uyuni. The bus must have been built in the early 70s, and had NO suspension. Combine that with non tarmac road, and I've never been so shaken in my life. Couldn't even put my head on the chair as it shook so hard! It was also freezing (inside of the windows were frozen), and there was no toilet on board. Quite how we survived the 8 hour journey at night I don't know, but it was worth it,
Cute night monkey
He looks cute and fluffy, but it's not all true, he bites too... and feel sligfhtly more as if we have experienced true South America transport now!
We found the animal refuge in the centre of Bolivia, in the middle of the jungle and coca plantations. Running more less on entirely on volunteer work and money, it's famous enough to have made it into the lonely planet, and have adverts at immigration. Thought before we arrived that Zoe and I might get to be the 'vets', injecting monkeys and the like, but realised soon after getting here that the job description is far more on a par with 'kennel maid'. The refuge is supposedly animals that can't be released into the wild, either 'cos of injury or because of too much human contact, although not always the case. The species range from several different types of monkey, to coatis, tayras (or honey bears) , pumas, tortoises and different species of birds. Unfortunately you need to be here for a month before they let you near the pumas (something about the cats needing consistency but probably more just that they are the most popular and persuades people to stay longer). For those only staying a couple of weeks (minimum obligation) it tends to
Tayra's teeth
Yes, she bites aswell, although I was starting to 'bond' a little when I left (ie managed to stroke her and not lose a finger) be monkeys of some description or another...
Zoe was volunteered for the 'special' monkeys, those Capuchin monkeys that due to one reason or another can't be released into the wild, or be let anywhere near tourists in the park. Often they have been messed up by being owned by humans, and some definately have severe mental problems. From what I can gather, working there means that you get sat on by a lot of monkeys, most of whom piss on you, some of whom try and bite you, and a few that suceed. On the plus side there doesn't seem to be too much actual work involved, although Zoe will no doubt be horriffied at that!
As for me, I'm with the 'small animals' - Tayras, coatis, night monkeys and the odd tortoise (although by the time I left all the tortoises had escaped!). I feed them, then I clean them out, then I take them for a walk. When I return I feed them again, clean them, take them for another walk. And to finish the day... yep, that's right, I feed them. Slightly tedious after a few days, very tedious after 2 weeks! However, the animals
But not all teeth
She can do the cute thing, after a walk she climbs into her waterbowl for a bath are (sometimes!) worth it!
There are several Coatis of varying sizes, that are VERY cute after they've had their lunch, they squeak at you, grip onto your leg, clamber up until they are in you arms, and then make squeaking noises until they fall asleep. If you try and move however, they get very upset, and when there is food involved, they don't hesitate biting the hand that feeds them. Fortunately most are qutie small, and it doesn't hurt. Much. Then there are the 2 night monkeys, the male of which is continuously pissed off - think that might be due to the fact that I turn up with food in the morning about 2 hours after he's gone to bed, do the cleaning, and wake up his missus to make the bed. The 3 'Cuchi Cuchis' , nocturnal wide eyed lemur like creature of which I only ever see one are probably feeling the same way when I arrive with their breakfast.
The title of 'most awkward' animals I work with goes to the Tayras, a form of giant ferret, with teeth to match, and the same tendency to bite and hold on come what may. There
Pata the coati
3 legged coati that demands regular cuddles after lunch. Just don't get betwen him and his papaya are only 3 of them, a younger pup that is actually cute enough to play with like a small puppy with very sharp teeth. The other two have slightly less desire to play nice, and can get a little carried away if there is something they want that you have (ie ruc sac, plastic bottle, banana etc), and I nearly lost my thumb retrieving my rucsac from Tito, whereas Zoe nearly lost a leg to Chica over a plastic bottle. The fact that they were walked along the tourist trail, amoungst people was always a rather large concern to me, and I think it was more luck than anything else that prevented tourists in the park from being bitten! Amazingly I was actually starting to bond with Chica towards the end, managed to give her stroke without losing any fingers!
We were even lucky enough to be in Villa Tunari, the local village for the annual 'fish festival'. Actually a major festival, attracting thousands of people to eat locally caught fish, listen to music, dance, and get drunk. Reminiscent of music festivals back home, only on a much smaller scale. Stalls around the edge selling food and drinks, stage in the centre with bands performing, large dance floor where everyone danced / jumpd up and down / moved about in some way that could almost be called dancing. After the rhythm of the Argentinians, it was quite a surprise to find that Bolivians can't, as a general rule, dance. They do play music quite well, provided you like pan pipes. Have to admit I'm not a big fan myself, but found myself dancing nonetheless! And the fish was fantastic!
So the 2 weeks passed in a fairly relaxed fashion, no running for buses, the same bed every night, and proper veggie food cooked at the refuge. I had been feeling worn down by seeing a different amazing sight every day, and things were starting to become rolled into one. So it was good just to be in one place, recharge the batteries and replenish the enthusiasm for travel by reminding myself what it's like to have to get up for work every morning, and repeat repetitive tasks on a daily basis. Ready to move on again now, after being bitten enough, covered in enough bodily waste material, and eaten by plenty of mosquitoes. I wish I could spend more time in Bolivia, a country of extremes, friendly people and under rated beauty. However I have a flight to Costa Rica in just over a week, and my heart is calling me back to Argentina once more...
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Richard Smith
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Night Monkey
Will you bring me one back as a pet?