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Published: December 21st 2007
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Our first few days in Sucre were similar to Potosi - it rained, rained, then rained a little bit more! Still, it is almost 2000m lower and so it is also a bit warmer. That makes a BIG difference!!
A major problem with the rain is the effect on our future plans. We had hoped to spend a few days here before flying on to Santa Cruz. The rain was so bad for two days that the flights were cancelled, leading to a backlog, and the roads are a bit of a mess after the downpours that even bus tickets are hard to come by. Therefore we have to stay here for a whole week before flying onwards. It’s not so bad though as the Hostal Pachamama is cheap and comfortable. (Thanks Hans, Ingrid, Lykke and Wijnard for the recommendation)
In between (and often during) downpours we have been able to get out and about and see parts of the city we didn’t get to when we were here 3 years ago. Sucre is the legal capital of Bolivia (at least for the time being - Evo Morales has plans to move everything to La Paz) and we were
surprised to be able to visit the
Legislatura. Leaving our passports with security we were escorted round by a knowledgeable guide. He showed us the assembly rooms and the library. It was a very interesting visit; all you have to do is ask!
Just outside the
Legislatura is
Parque Bolivar in the centre of which is a tacky miniature Eiffel Tower. It is made even tackier by the Christmas lights currently attached! At the far end of the park is the old railway station, now the law school. A security guard invited us in to take a closer look at the train rusting away on the edge of the car park.
Every South American town or city has at least one interesting cemetery containing the graves and tombs of the great and the good! Sucre is no exception, but it’s not quite as interesting during torrential showers! Still, we made the best of it and had a good wander around. There are plenty of kids around offering to be your guide but we were just browsing really.
Sucre is built on several hills. Atop one of them is La Recoleta, a monastery currently housing ten active monks
(if monks can truly be described as active!). Our guide was excellent and was more than willing to answer our questions, unlike some we have had!! The monastery has 4 beautiful courtyards including one full of orange trees. It also houses an interesting collection of anonymous indigenous art. Apparently the reason it is all anonymous is this: European artists taught the locals how to paint, but the students soon excelled the teachers and therefore were not allowed to add their signatures, saving any embarrassment!
Behind La Recoleta is a hill where you can walk up the stony road following the Stations of the Cross. We walked up that way but took the steep uneven stairs down. The views of the city were fabulous, especially when the showers abated! At the top is a statue of Christ as per normal! It was quite a strenuous climb but well worth it. So, our penance served in advance, we expect good weather for the rest of our stay here!!
So, that was the first half of our extended stay in Sucre. More soon about Dinosaurs and Castles!
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