Madidi National Park

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After an unfortunate episode of illness on finishing in the Pampas (thank goodness for the fully stocked pharmacy we brought with us!), diagnosing malaria, cholera and aemobiasis (with no matching symptoms) we got ready for the jungle.

We´d decided to go for the pricy jungle trip...then decided it was too expensive for not looking fancy enough (Chalalan Lodge) and went for the off-shoot Baraco del Madidi. Definitely the right decision as it was incredible!

In additional to the unfortunate episode, the weather had also changed. Whilst these two incidents together saved us a good few pennies as we refrained from checking into the ´luxury´ Hotel Safari with its river side pool (and I´m sure fabulous cocktails), it did unfortunately mean that we were rather cold for our trip up the river. Jungle = cold was a very hard concept to get around! However, we were kindly wrapped up in a polythene sheet over all our layers to enjoy the journey. Seriously grateful for the thermos of hot sweet coffee that got passed around half way! We travelled up the river for around 5 hours, travelling through the Madidi National Park into quite literally the middle of the jungle. Alas, no jaguar was spotted, but we saw macaws and toucans (at a distance) and when we stopped for lunch lots of tracks of various animals. Also found some quicksand which was a little scary!

We arrived at the beautiful lodge which has been done incredibly well. A local tribe (well three hours away) family had set it up. The pathways were lined with stone through the jungle, leading to the main house and three ´cabins´. Our cabin was a two tiered wooden hut (hand made) with a tent and seating on the upper level and a hammock on the lower. The toilet was the next path along, all clean and white tiled with showers. Camping made Emily friendly! Needless to say visiting the toilet at night was more than terrifying. I managed to convince Tom to come with me (with much persuading). We lit the path with torches and all was going well until something large sounding ran away in the bushes! At least it proved that I needed male company for protection!!

After settling in, we headed off out on a walk. Our guide Gilda (pronounced Hilda) was a walking encylopedia of the jungle. We followed tracks and looked and listened for animals (Hilda was AMAZING at imitating their calls). Alas, we found very little but was a fascinating walk through the jungle. Dinner was served in the main cabin (still outdoors) by candlelight and we felt thoroughly spoilt by the number of staff...for just the two of us!

The next morning we took another long trek through the jungle. Animals were hiding due to the change in weather (so unimpressed!) but we still had a great time. Gilda showed us different tracks, different trees and what they can be used for, a multitude of insects and ants, mushrooms which could be used for writing, plants that could be used for clothes etc etc! His tribe had undergone ´civilisation´since his childhood so he started by wearing clothes made from tree bark and learning to write on a mushroom...and he now has modern clothes and uses the internet - that´s rapid development!

In the afternoon we went fishing. After finding worms to catch the small fish...and using the small fish to find the big fish we waited for a bite. The line started running forwards and we started pulling back (soooooooo heavy) having caught a giant catfish (we were aiming for pirana) who we promptly named Whiskers. He was prepared the following day in traditional style baked in banana leaves and steamed in a bamboo stick - delicious!

That evening we went on a night walk. Apart from when we thought we´d got lost (us...not the guide) was really good fun. The jungle chickens were all roosting in the trees and looked a little stuffed! There were lots of noises and I noted that Gilda had not brought his large knife with him...this was not the point I wanted to find a jaguar! All in all a brilliant experience though.

The following morning we headed across river to the bird look out. Wish I could have seen the macaws a little closer but there were so many of different colours. Nearly enough to turn me into bird watcher...but not quite!

We headed back in the boat that afternoon before catching the terrifying plane back to La Paz and a very welcome warm shower!

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