Ushuaia, Argentina

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Geo: -54.79, -68.31

This morning we had an early alarm set to be up and ready for our tour meeting on the dock at 7:45. Looking outside, we could see fresh snowfall on the nearby mountain. We have been warned that it will be cold and windy today, so we have layered up again.

We took the "Train to the End of the World" tour. First stop was the Maritime Museum which is located in the old prison. Ushuaia was the location where Argentina sent its worst criminals. The city built up around the prison with only prisoners, guards, and the families of the guards living here for a long time. Prisoners were sent here before all the facilities were ready so the prisoners built their own prison. The conditions were difficult for everyone with the harsh weather and lack of any supplies except what came by ship only twice a year. The prison was closed in 1947 for humanitarian reasons. The men were locked up with two to four to a cell that was no bigger than the space for two bunk beds.

After visiting the museum, we went to the Tierra del Fuego National Park for a scenic drive and train ride. With snow falling outside the bus, we had some lovely views. However, it was hard to see the mountains, the Rio Pipo, and the Cascada de la Macarena in the fog. At about thirty minutes into the train ride, we thankfully stopped for a walk outside. The train car was exceedingly hot, and Philip and I were seated right in front of the hot blower. Once we got out of the train, Philip saw the guide and asked for a different seat. She said that she could find us one but also offered to turn off the heater. She turned off the heater, and the next part of the ride was much more comfortable. After that short stop outside, we reboarded and continued through the park to the train station on the opposite end. The whole ride was less than one hour and went only a few miles on a very narrow gauge track. At the train station, we were treated to hot drinks with empanadas and alfajores.

Tierra del Fuego is the name given to the island by Ferdinand Magellan when he saw smoke coming from several places. He thought the land was on fire, but it was actually the native people sending smoke signals to each other warning of his arrival. I always thought the name meant that there were volcanoes here, but, no. There are no volcanoes on the island.

Back on the bus, the ride to the ship was quick. We were scheduled to stop at Ensenada Point for a view of Beagle Channel, but did not make another stop. I did not ask why that was missed. I imagine the foggy, snowy weather prevented the view intended.

Lunch for us was at Seabourn Square for finger sandwiches and drinks. I really like Seabourn Square that is set up with a coffee bar and small, waiter-operated buffet of sandwiches and sweets and open from early until late only closing during dinner service hours in The Restaurant. The guest services are all there and easy to find. There is a living room type lounge area with indoor and outdoor seating and with a small library and iPads available that access either the Seabourn blog and Antarctica information resources (white iPads) or a variety of newspapers and magazines (black iPads). There is a jigsaw puzzle going on a large table. Philip has worked on it some, but the lighting glares on the glossy surface of the puzzle making it difficult to see well.

While reading and writing in our suite this afternoon, Captain Dag announced over the intercom in all the rooms that we would be late leaving Ushuaia and thus late arriving in Punta Arenas tomorrow. There are three tanker trucks on the dock that I can see from our balcony so, I suppose, we are late refueling, but they could be doing something else with adding water or removing waste. We finally cast off at 5:40 and started our passage through the Beagle Channel.

Dinner tonight in the Restaurant was fun. We joined Luqui, the Ice Guy's, table with Paul from Brisbane and Toni and Bill from the Sunshine Coast of Australia. Luqui taught us more about the glaciers we were passing off the starboard side as the evening ended. Bill kept the jokes coming and bantered with everyone. After dinner, I was able to take some photos of glaciers from our suite's balcony. There are five glaciers in Glacier Alley in the O'Brien Channel, and we saw the first one, a tidewater glacier, identified by Luqui as Holanda while we were still at dinner. The glaciers are named after countries. As well as Holanda (Netherlands), there are Italia (Italy), Francia (France), Alemania (Germany), and Romanche. The glaciers come from the Darwin Ice Field. Luqui left soon after the first glacier went by to go out on deck to watch the others go by, too. As the Ice Guy, or more specifically, the glaciologist, he is the expert and needed to be on deck to help others with identifying them.

The time we arrive in Punta Arenas tomorrow has been pushed a little bit and our tour has changed to 45 minutes later—not much considering we left Ushuaia almost four hours late. We have ordered our room service breakfast for tomorrow and are ready for bed early trying to make up for the short night last night spent watching the Cowboys lose for the first time in eleven games.

The captain has asked that all unnecessary lights on the ship be turned off tonight as we make our way to the Strait of Magellan. They have a problem with seabirds getting confused by the lights and landing on the ship. When the petrels land on the ship or any solid surface, they cannot take off again on their own. They are only capable of taking off from water because of the construction of their feet. We have our balcony lights off, and the captain will make sure all the deck lights are off soon.

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