Stage 10: Argentina - Chile - Easter Islands - Home

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So after a tremendous but tough time in the Nth East of Sth America it is time to start the long trip home:

Argentina

After a 45 bus ride from Rio I arrive in the Argentine capital Buenos Aires. I have very fond memories of the last time I was in BA. It is an amazing place that is more akin to a European city than a Latin American one. The avenues are wide with skyscrapers and cafes on every corner. Argentine's are fabulous drinkers and smokers and their culture is on display on every street of the capital. Quick Facts:

* 1930: Top 10 richest nations in the world
* 1950: Currency is devalued by 70%!a(MISSING)nd plunged into poverty
* 1982: Lost the Falklands war against Briton
* Worlds Most fanatical sports supporters (easily)

So back in BA I check into the Millhouse Backpackers like my previous visit here 3 years ago. The place has not changed and just involves waking up at 1pm for breakfast, lunch at 5, siesta at 7, dinner at 10, drinking at midnight and clubbing from 2-5am. BA is just a non-stop party, I really have no idea how the locals keep up with it. After a few days relaxing in BA, Elyse arrives. She is just fresh from Africa climbing Mt Kilimanjaro and ready to experience some of Latin America. Is great to see her and also to have a traveling partner for the next few weeks. We go straight to an Argentine Parrillia which is an all you can eat BBQ for 10 dollars. With full stomachs it is off to book the next flight out of BA down to El Calafate, the capital of Patagonia.

El Calafate is freezing so I decide to invest in a few more layers and some ski gear. In El Calafate we check out the immense Perito Morreno glacier. The glacier is 5km wide with 70m high walls, it is immense to say the least. As I have already done most of the attractions here in my first round the world trip we take a bus to El Chaltan which is deep in the los glaciares national park. Here we rent tent, sleeping bags, poles and buy food for a few days trekking through the park.

The first day of trekking takes us to the Piedras Blancas Hanging Glacier. The path is tough and takes us through a boulder field of rocks the size of a small house. We camp the night and the torrential weather comes in and lashes the landscape. The scenery and weather scares me a little as it makes you feel like tiny and insignificant in comparison to the forces of nature. The next day we climb up through the snow to the base of Mt Fitz Roy. My Fitz Roy is 3500m with sheer granite sides, it is an amazing wonder and held in high esteem to the climbing community due to its technical challenges. At about 2000m we get a great view of the mountain and all the frozen lakes surrounding it.

From here it is down to our next camp Laguna Torre. Again the weather bashes us at night but we wake up to a semi clear day and view another giant Mt Torre. Mt Torre is even more sheer than Fitz Roy and has a magical glacier and lake coated with icebergs. The picture is like something taken out of the lord of the rings movie.

The last day we have a 6 hour slog back to El Chaltan, at least our packs are light now. However the adventure doesn't stop here as we sign up for a private guide to take us up the beautiful Mt Torre Glacier for the next few days. So the next day we retrace our steps back up the immense Mt Torre. Here we use zip lines to cross the lake and get access to the Glacier. After a few hours our guide informs us that since last year the Glacier has changed dramatically. The normal route to get to the base-camp of Mt Torre is blocked. As we are first on the Glacier this year no-one has found a way through, so we have to do it. However the weather starts turning and we are in the middle of a full blown snow storm. Our guide Uncle Martin decides to pitch tents right on the glacier.

After a few hours of intense storm me and our guide decide to get out and hunt for a path across the glacier. We see that due to global warming all the ice bridges that are normally used have collapsed. After a few hours of hunting we find a new possible path and it holds. I photograph the spot so that future travelers can use it. We snuggle into our beds and get smashed up by the snowstorm all night.

In the morning the storm has eased but still not cleared. The tent is stacked with snow but it makes for good pictures. After breakfast it is decided that getting to base-camp of Torre is out of the question due to weather so we decided to just do some glacier walking. With crampons and ropes we explore the glacier caves, practice our crampon skills and even do some ice climbing. After this we begin the long walk back home and crash out on a real bed, the first time in a long time.

Back to civilization and first thing we do is hit the all you can eat BBQ and feed on a few kgs of red meat. We also get into the coffee and the Gelato which is absolutely world class. Yes its snowing outside but that doesn't mean you can get into the ice-cream! From here we take a 30hour bus ride to Bariloche. For those unaccustomed to Argentina bus rides, they are the best in the world hands down. We ride in seats that fold back into beds, we get hot steak dinners and wine to go with it while we watch an English movie with Spanish voice overs and English subtitles.

Bariloche is the lake district of Argentina and right on the spine of the Andes. Here we go for hike for a few days to a mountain refuge in the snow. The Refugio in Argentina are like the huts in the NZ but they have a cook which can make you meals + they have cold beer! Here we spend the days climbing the fabulous mountains and playing with Blackie the cooks cat. The cat is hilarious because it lives in the snow and has no other feline friends so it is a bit crazy. It keeps on doing funny dances for everyone, poor guy he needs a female mate!

Our last destination in Argentina is the wine town of Mendoza. Here we hang out with Argentine cowboys taking our horses through the Andes foothills. We spend the days drinking red wine, having BBQ over open fires, taking siestas in the desert under trees and of course riding our powerful Argentine horses. We also do an interesting 'wine' bike tour. Here you ride your bike to different wineries and sample the vino. Turns out to be very interesting riding home after a full day of 'testing' the wine.

From Mendoza we catch the 6 hour ride over the Andes to a high altitude border crossing into Chile.

Chile

I love Chile, I really do. I find that the arrogant nature of the Argentine's really get to me after a while. In my last journey to South America I went the full length of the country and found Chileans a great people, but they do talk with the worst Spanish out there. In Chile we go to the beautiful seaside town of Valparaiso. Valparaiso is a world heritage town built on seaside cliffs that feature unique escalators to scale the high cliffs. The escalators are like a garage being pulled by a cable up the hill. They are super cheap and super convenient to get around however a little dodgy!

Lastly we hit the capital Santiago and get some shopping done. Now its time to board my plane and say goodbye to Elyse as she has a few more days in Sth America.

Easter Islands

I am really excited about the Easter Islands and I am not disappointed. As the plane touches down I get a glimpse of the tropical island with its crystal blue water. I instantly feel like I am back on Rarotonga when I get here. The people look just like Raro people however make me laugh because they speak in Spanish. It feels good because it makes me feel like I am home. I find a random local and stay at their house in one of their spare rooms.

I rent a bike for the week that I am here and get down to exploring straight away. Easter Island is very unique due to its Moi statues. These massive stone carved statues were built and stuck around the island as a form of worship. Near the end of the original inhabitants time the tribes started fighting and pulling the idols down. The Spanish then came and took the men to Sth America as slaves. Now the history is lost and only pieces of information are known. They did have a written language and with lots of writing on stones could unlock the puzzle however with all the slaves perishing in Sth America the language is lost.

Over the next few days I spend hours riding around the island tracks seeing the massive Moi lining the beach. It is an interesting place and seeing by bicycle enables me to soak up the island culture. When my days are up I am a little unhappy to leave but I am almost home so pack my bags with a smile on my face.

Tahiti

Tahiti is my last destination and after a 6 hour flight I arrive to civilization again. Arriving late at night I enquire at the airport and find out the cheapest dorm bed is almost $50 USD. I laugh at this and crash at the airport on the floor. The next day I decide that I cannot afford to stay here and to be honest I have no motivation to see the place. Its funny because in hindsight how many people would say 'Tahiti? Nah cant be bothered'. So I hang out at the airport and sleep there again. The next day I manage to get on the next flight back to NZ.

Home

So after a few days sleeping at the airport and a quick 6 hour flight I arrive back home!!!!!!!!!!!

What can I say about my journey other than the past year has been a life changing experience. I have seen amazing sights that only a privileged few have experienced. However for me this trip was about the people and locals that I have met. Hearing their personal stories and their hardships all being told with a proud smile across their faces. One thing I have learned that the happiest people in the world are not the richest or come from the most well off countries. I have been astounded by the generosity of people and just taking me in and feeding me even when they have nothing. It makes you appreciate what we have got in New Zealand and I will never forget that.

I am happy to be back but I think a little piece of me was left in those places and hopefully I will be able to go back there to collect it one day.

Here are the photos from this leg:
Argentina Photos
Chile Photos
Easter Islands Photos

Best All-Round Countries:

1) Pakistan
2) Venezuela
3) Uzbekistan
4) Burma
5) Bangladesh

Most Beautiful:

1) Argentina
2) Pakistan
3) Norway

Undiscovered Delights:

1) Tajikistan
2) Suriname
3) Bangladesh

Get out there and see them!!!!

Thank you for reading my blog over the past year
Shaun

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