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Published: April 24th 2009
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Hello all,
Coming from Chile to Baliroche, Argentina, we were desperately hoping for some nicer weather and a bit of relief from the rain and wind - sadly, we found none in Bariloche. We stayed for a few days, forced indoors every time we tried to go see the lake or hit up the tourist information for hike possibilities. Not only that, but most of the hikes were closed due to the bad weather, and we were cringing when we made the trip from hostel to supermarket, so we were quite sure we wouldn´t be so inclined to head out into hiking areas...
So, yet again, we cut our stay a wee bit short and decided to push on in hopes of something better - and we did find better! After a painful, but beautiful bus ride to Calafate, we found ourselves in a town with amazing steaks, great wine, decent camping, and a few friends from the bus.... which meant one thing: car rental for the glacier trip (which also allowed us to bypass the entry fee on account of going up so early - with a bonus of catching the sunrise!) It was indescribable - the giant
glacier before our eyes and the constant crackling and accosting sounds as pieces fell off and shattered the calm water below. We spent hours there, taking in the view, and trying to comprehend the enormity of it... over 60 meters high... the tiniest piece of ice, looking like an ice cube maybe, would fall off, and it was only with the thundering crash as it entered the water that you would realize just how big that ¨tiny ice cube¨ really was!
Of course, after a few days in Calafate, we really had seen all the town had to offer, so we went as far south as we could, landing in Ushuaia. It was perfect. Albeit chilly and slushing when we arrived, we found ourselves a lovely hostel and settled in for the evening - curling up by the warmth and feeling like we were in heaven with the best bed we had experienced in a long time! The next morning, the views were spectacular, a city cradled by mountains, glacier, and ocean, with incredible skies, fantastic steak and wine, and a small town feel. We spent our days meandering, cooking, relaxing, hunting sunrises and sunsets, and just plain enjoying
everything Ushuaia had to offer.
Eventually we were starting to feel the cold, and think of city and culture again, so we hopped a plane to Buenos Aires and landed ourselves back in the middle of big city with a shot of culture. Buenos Aires was a lovely contrast to the outdoors and southern travel, but we were somehow a little disappointed. Big city is big city, and it does take a fair bit of patience when pushing through Sunday crowds to see the free Sunday Tango shows... or just waking down the pedestrian shopping streets and fending off the rasta sales people and begging mothers. Then there is the garbage... piled up on every street with hundreds of recyclers that come alive at night, sifting and sorting into the wee hours. Mind you, it is a great city, loads of restaurants, shopping, and cafes... and in fact, we found ourselves some lovely parks too, and went for a relaxing Sunday picnic... just what we wanted. And I have to say, that I was more than impressed with the late night Sunday Tango in all the city squares... everyone out dancing into the night, and the cemetery with Evita
was a sight as well... I have never seen graves like that before! But, alas, we were ready for a quick jaunt over to Montevideo before finishing my time in Argentina with Mendoza... the wine mecca!
Mendoza was perfect. We arrived late and were swept away by our new Mendoza-grandma from the bus station. She drove us to her house and set us up in a quiet, clean house, fussing over our travels and all of our needs. She sent us off to the store with her cell number and cards to get home, making us promise we would call if we needed anything, and promised to have winery tour information in the morning. The moment we surfaced the next morning she had a little letter written out that she went over four times with us about the bus to get there, the man to talk to (Mr. Hugo) for renting bikes, and everything inbetween. She all but walked us to the stop and put us on the bus, again making us promise we would call if anything came up. It was seamlessly setup and the perfect day. Bright blue sky, and a day of buses had us ecstatic
to be on bikes, and we wound our way from winery to winery, taking breaks for a picnic and the olive factory, and leaving us with just enough energy at the end of the day to make it out for a another steak dinner! It really was the perfect way to finish off our trip...
Of course, there´s still more to come.... but only after a short break back home!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Trish xx
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