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Published: November 12th 2008
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Hey all!!
Somehow we managed to leave on time the next morning for Potosi and we discovered real bolivian roads - dirt tracks!! It was roasting in the truck but couldn't leave the windows open for the dust so we slept most of the journey. We didn't do much when we reached Potosi either apart from go out for dinner and went to bed early.
The next day we were up early to visit the mines. Potosi was made famous by the discover of Cerro Rico (rich hill) a giant silver mine in the hill overlooking the town, in the time of the conquistadores. It funded much of Spains wealth for two centuries and is still producing silver, tin and zinc. Unfortunately methods of mining and conditions haven't changed much for the people who work there. We were collected at the hotel and decked out like miners - overalls, wellies, hard hat and torch. We brought presents of coca leaves, cigarettes, crackers, 96% alcohol and dynamite to give to the miners we met. The first person we met was a 12 year old boy who was starting to learn the trade- by chiselling out minerals with a hammer and
Salar de Uyuni
persepective photography chisel. Very basic and awful to see someone so young working like that. Everyone we met was very sad as the previous day one of their friends died from silicosis (from inhaling the dust and fumes), he was only 28. The miners have no safety equipment, not even dustmasks, and can work up to 24 hours in the mines by chewing the coca leaves and drinking the alcohol. Over 10000 miners work in 500 mines, just 300 of which are considered safe. The mine we visited was high up and relatively safe, the ones at the base are more likely to cave in. Depending on what area they work in, the miners choose between life and wealth, as the bottom mines offer a lot more silver for the risk.
We met different miners as we went in, and two of them blew up dynamite for us. We also were shown a ceremonial cave with mud statues of Pacha Mama (mother earth) and the Devil, where the miners make offerings of cigarettes, alcohol and coca leaves. The miners believe that the Devil is a miners friend, and pour alcohol on its arms for strength, and legs to be able to
walk out, and penis for testosterone.
It was really a heartbreaking and eye-opening experience, especially when the men tried to give us the minerals thay had just spent hours getting as presents.
Then it was back on the truck to Uyuni for a long journey, across some of the worst roads I have ever seen. We ate pizza that night in the restaurant run by a Boston man, which boasted the "best pizza in South America". It was very delicious. The next day we went to see the salt flats for the day in 4*4s. First stop was a salt factory where we saw how the people dry out the salt in their furnaces, transfer it to a grinder and mix it with iodine, and then seal it with bags in a flame. We had a look around the markets and the various trinkets made out of salt, before being taken to an actual salt hotel. I don't think it's open for reservations!! Finally we were out in the salt flats proper, and spent ages taking the perspective shots which is a lot harder than it looks, with humourous results. On the road back we stopped at a
train graveyard, where the famous train robbed by Butch Cassidy now rusts with many others. It was actually the 100th anniversary of the deaths of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, which happened in nearby Tupiza. We returned to the hotel for more pizza before heading back to Potosi the next day, as Jack couldn't handle the roads from Uyuni to the border. It was a very bumpy ride with much talking and staring out the window at the beautiful barren landscape!!
From Potosi we travelled to Tupiza on the way to the Argentinian border- which was only a stopover. We took in some of the town, checking out an old-timers bar and went out with some lads we met in our hotel.
It was a very long ride to and through the border but we made it to Argentina and Salta and are staying another full day before moving onto Chile!!
Orla
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