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Tango Party In Tucuman
Yes, it´s meant to be blury...it´s a night capture...I liked it...sort of captures the mood of tango in my mind...First of all, I am SO sorry I have neglected this! I have been procrastinating, and not sitting down to focus on the latest update! I hope you are doing well...in good health... enjoying the summer up there. I hear, particularly in CA, there are, some 1400 blazes going? Glad I´m not there! How sad to think of the loss of habitat that must be occuring in the wild areas, like we haven´t been losing enough! Sit back and relax, THIS one is a long one!
Currently I am in Salta, LA LINDA (the beautiful), Argentina... I arrived over a week ago, Saturday, and have been very impressed so far. First I should say what I have been doing before this. After Beriloche in Patagonia, I traveled to Mendoza Argentina where I stayed for more or less 1 week. Mendoza is located in the west of Argentina and is the gateway to the Andes Mtn Range and has direct access through the mountains to Santiago-- where I didn´t end up going. Mendoza is world famous for its red wines produced in this region.... and I drank a good amount of it! Ha, no not too much, but I enjoyed being
in the very place where it´s produced. I confess, I didn´t go to the wineries! I just wasn´t feeling like it as I knew what to expect after visiting the wineries in Santa Barbara. I figured it´s the same. I was more interested in getting into the mountains. I took a great tour, a high Andes tour they call it, with about 8 others and we traveled in a loop from Termas de Villavicencio (where the best bottled water comes from in the Andes) through Uspallata (a lovely and breathtaking mountain valley where I later returned to horseback ride) and went as far back as to Parque Provincial Aconcagua...the highest mountain in the Americas! Its highest elevation is 22,841 feet! I have some pictures of the peak from a few perspectives. It´s interesting, it doesn´t look too threatening but many people die trying to ascend the mountain. I know I wouldn´t make it, I cannot do high altitude. Many friends can attest, I fall to pieces, consistently after about 13,000 feet. Too bad, because I enjoy it, but I have paid the price one too many times!
I was to stay with my good friend Diego´s sister while in
Mendoza... and she was lovely. But unfortunately I just couldn´t sleep there, as like many Argentinians, she smokes in her house regularly and my CA sensitive nose could not handle it. So I ended up staying at a hostel in town, Damajuana Hostel...very nice place. It was a good thing this happened as I ended up meeting more people by staying in the hostel. It is the best way to meet new and interesting people because everyone is open and free to try new things and looking for travel buddies. A few guys asked me to go out to a local pub and I ended up meeting a great guy from Chile, Guillermo, who lives and works in Mendoza at the wineries. He is affiliated with an Italian company that invests in quite expensive machinery-equipment that helps in the processing of massive volumes of wine. It´s all electronic and automated. The wine business is BIG and booming... It was interesting learning how all that works. Plus Guillermo himself was great and fun. We ended up hanging out quite a bit... and since he had a truck we were able to get out of the city of Mendoza and I could
explore a little more that way. On his way back to visit Chile, he dropped me off back in the mountains in Uspallata...that valley town I mentioned earlier where I went horseback riding one day for 5 hours of heaven.
It was an incredible route with JUST me and my guide and a young boy who also helped out and two dogs to accompany us. They took me alongside the Uspallata River which intersects with the big Mendoza river where I saw some breathtaking awesome views in complete tranquility and then we ascended into the hills where there were incredible colorful rocks and vistas. I am not an experienced horseback rider, but I did well I think, except when the horse started to really run. I have not figured out how to ride WITH the horse when we are going quickly... I need lessons on how to do this so I don´t ride counter the horse.
The next day, I had a happy encounter with a Peruvian that was visiting Uspallata to do some research for his guidework. He guides travelers throughout S.America and wanted to see this region for future travel plans. He befriended me and I
told him on my last day there that I was going to rent a mountain bike and head in all directions to explore and get some much needed exercise. He agreed to go, and we had a great time riding around...and I GOT my exercise! We rode up a very steep incline to some nearby hills and from there we hid our bikes, and climbed. The treking route I suggested ended up being a bad route (as ususal things are not what they seem from the ground until you´re on the hill and can´t go back!). There were very few hand-foot holds much of the climb and the drop off behind me was pretty significant accompanied by various sorts of cacti! It was a good mental challenge for me, as physically I could do the climb but I am notoriously scared of steep hills with loose rock, which this entire hill had! Once at the top I was personally very proud of myself... and we luckily found a pretty smooth route back so I didn´t have to revisit my mental torment! 😉
All in all Mendoza was good to me, but I wasn´t in LOVE with the city itself.
To me it´s a functional city, with some nice features, but not in itself, extremely attractive. I hear that because of the earthquake history of the area, the architects have generally been conservative with their design and this has lead to more utilitarian, blocky designs that just don´t grab the eye. Mendoza is a great gateway to the outdoors I love so much though, so it was still great!
After Mendoza I made the trip to Tucuman which is about 13 hours away in the north. I have gotten much more accustomed to the long drawn out bus rides. Flights are NOT affordable in this country (airline monopoly), and I think even more expensive for tourists, so the bus has been my only choice. Even if I was working I still might not consider a flight due to the cost. On the part of the buses, I have been riding with a company called AndesMar and have been really happy with their service. They have what´s called the "cama" option, which means bed...and you essentially have a first class seat (like those you find first class on the airplane) and they give you a decent dinner, and play 1-3
movies depending on the duration. The movies so far have not been repetative and have been good. So time has passed well. I also sleep really well on the bus, thanks to not having a horrible snoring guy next to me all night, unlike my first bus experience! I always sit in the back right of the bus, on top. I figure, if we have an accident, like a head on collision, I´ll be safer-better off than in the other seats. Driving at night here can be dangerous. When there is a seat belt I use it. Argentinian drivers aren´t as bad as Brazilians, but they are bad!
I arrived in Tucuman, and unfortunately wasn´t too happy when I got there. I felt lonely all over again, after many days of not feeling bad. I guess I had different expectations of my time in Tucuman, and I ended up keeping my time there short. I did end up meeting with Benjamin and his girlfriend-friends for a couple of nights and that was really nice (Benjamin is friends with my LA friend Carlos-Carlos was gracious enough to put me in touch with Ben). They are good people and went out
Need I say More?
This is how the men are here! No, really there were three dogs but two ran away but I still caught the sight, and I thought it was hillarious! of their way to show me the pretty spots nearby in the hills, including a lovely lunch with their grandparents up the mountain just west of Tucuman. Again, the city itself, like Mendoza, NOT the most beautiful of places, but they have some good nightspots...and the point is, the place, for travelers, is not about the city but the surrounding places to go.
I ended up jumping ship early from Tucuman and headed due north to Salta, as my good friend Rodrigo from Buenos Aires bought a plane ticket to come up for the weekend to hang out with me in Salta (SO nice of him). I WILL go back to the Tucuman area, but the time was just not right for me to be there then. When I live here in the future, I will go back. He and I had never been to Salta before so we were both in for a surprise when we saw how very nice this city is! It is a city, more or less the size of Ventura I think, located between the Andes and smaller mountains on the other side. The city backs up to a large hill, not quite a
mountain, where the vistas from the top are top notch! You can take a ride up to the top in a tram and it´s really good to do if you come here (or you can run up the 1,007 steps like I do!). You can see the whole city and off into the countryside. It´s a colonial style town, with character, unlike my impressions of the cities of Tucuman and Mendoza... a city with good architecture and overall scenery. There are nice shops, restaurants, it´s sophisticated, pleasant and comfortable...I feel safe walking around. From the moment I got off the bus I knew I would be happy here. I feel at home already. Granted I have a lot to learn about the place but I can tell it´s for me. Plus, they have bellydancing, salsa, tango studios, and I already found a gym I like and have been going to. I go first to the gym then I run up to the top of the big hill... this has been my routine thus far. I also enjoyed a 1 hour massage for.......$15! Can´t beat that! Argentina is not super cheap but I know a deal when I see one, and
a $15 massage is a deal!
Rodrigo´s friend in Buenos Aires, Virginia met up with us over the weekend when Rodrigo was here (she is from Salta and has been staying here for a month or so following the unfortunate loss of her father last month). She´s an actress, singer, dancer, multi talented chick...and so so nice. We had some fun with her, going out and seeing the surrounding town and places to go. Virginia speaks English which is trouble in one repsect because I end up speaking in English with her, but nice in another, as I´ve been able to communicate and get to know her! Since Rodrigo left two weekends ago, I have been spending some time with Virigina and a friend of hers, also from Salta, Mila, who is a lawyer here in town. It´s been nice because we´ve been able to have girl time, fun (they are 28 and 29 respectively). Most of my trip I have met guys and really no girls. Mainly because there really haven´t been any girls that have stayed in one place for long enough to know them. In fact tonight we went out for dinner. Both girls speak English
Harvesting Sugar Cane
It´s a fact of life..but you can see the selva in the background, not sitting pretty for long. There is a massive craving for production of soy and sugar no matter the cost, so these hillsides are also in danger. Interesting nonetheless... (I know, I know bad!) and have traveled extensively internationally. Very worldly types.
To be serious now, I HAVE been productive! Last week, I met with the Universidad Catolica de Salta (a private Catholic Uni here), whom I will be working for and with when I return in a year. I met with Dr. Roberto Ibarguren who is the Director of International Economics and Relations (something like that) and is the primary contact between his U and the Univerity of Montana, regarding our future work together. As you may already know I am starting my masters program with the UofM in International Conservation and Development and will be doing my second year of research in Salta. My research will likely be looking at how we can design a framework for conservation planning outside protected areas, like national parks, to accomplish conservation on private lands that currently have.........NO.......regulation at all. This of course will have to be accomplished in the cultural, political framework of Argentina. At this time, you can essentially do whatever you want, whenever you want in terms of clearing the land and otherwise. Naturally there are exceptions, like if a mining company or oil gas project comes
in, I understand there is some oversight, but basically there isn´t much protection happening at this time in the country as a whole, and in particular my area of interest, encompassing Salta, Jujuy and Tucuman Provinces. A lot of land has been and is currently being converted from forest and jungle to agriculture for soy and sugar crops. The problem is, unchecked conversion and development of the land. It just can´t continue on like this. We are loosing too much too fast.
So I will be doing my research as well as helping with another big project... the UofM is partnering with the Catholic University of Salta to help this U in Salta develop a conservation-forestry-restoration program which currently does not exist. The idea has been in the works for about 3 years now, and finally the papers have been signed between the Universities and I am going to be the liason between these two schools. I will facilitate the transfer of information and make the moves I am asked to make on behalf of the Dean (my advisor also) of my University. I assume I will over time have some latitude to make recommendations here and there, but
mainly I´m there to facilitate whatever my school wishes me to facilitate and vice-a-versa for the U of Salta..whatever they need me to do. Uof Montana is one of the top schools in the country and world in conservation and particularly on forestry issues, so it is well suited to helping Salta develop its program. In short, I WILL BE BUSY more than I have ever been in my life! Learning Spanish, working, studying, living...it will be interesting to see how I do it all! The past week I have been meeting with Dr. Ibarguren who is a very sincere, warm, intelligent gentleman, and I really look forward to working for and with him in the future! He introduced me to another researcher, Carlos Saravia who will be going with me on a tour tomorrow in the Salta Province to help familiarize me with the landscape and as much information as possible. He speaks a little English, but we will have a translater to help translate, because my Spanish is just not that good at all still. I can understand more than I can speak but still, have a long, long way to go. Don´t expect me to be anywhere
near fluent when I come back...as I am nowhere close!
I big reason I came to Salta was to meet these people and see the land I will be working in and living in. I didn´t have to but I wanted to, out of curiosity as well as preparing myself and them for my arrival. They should know who they´re getting right?? Don´t you dare contact them and tell them the truth about me!! 😉
I am also starting, this week, finally, my Spanish classes with a professor from the U, arranged by Dr. Ibarguren. She is supposed to be very good, so that should be helpful. That means I am here in Salta another week or so to get a fair amount of time with her before I move on. In the meanwhile, I am also working to meet other researchers in the area, biologists and the like who are working on similar issues in the region. I figure as best as I can, I want to meet with people now when I have time, to hopefully build some good relations before I move here. On that note, it brings me to the last chapter of my
...sorry......novel.
I went to Jujuy, in the north over the weekend. I was invited by Augustina, a student at the Catholic U of Salta as well as assistant to Dr. Ibarguren. Her hometown is San Pedro, slightly northeast of the capital of Jujuy. There was a bbq at her parent´s house as well as a celebration of a couple of Saints, including I think, St. Peter. Her family´s house fronts onto the public park, in the center of town, where there were hundreds of people out celebrating....listening and watching incredible dancing and music from Bolivia, Chile, Peru and of course Argentina. I have pictures you will see of the event. The bbq was a lot of fun too...but by the time it started, at 3:00 in the morning, I was so tired I went to bed "early" and missed more dancing and singing! The next day, for lack of finding a group to tour with, I found a private guide named Santiago who took me on a tour of the jungle...in and around Parque Nacional Calilegua. It´s known as the Yungas (habitat that stretches down from Ecuador all the way through Argentina into the Tucuman province. Very threatened habitat
Conservation group we ran into in the selva
Lucky chance meeting! I will work with them in the future... due to heavy use...should I say misuse of the land. Much has been converted to other uses as I have explained earlier. We had an amazing day, viewing the jungle and for me, learning about the biology, geology, cultural matters. Santiage is more than a guide. He is very involved in conservation himself...when he has the time away from his work. He has many contacts with conservationists-biologists. During our trip we had a happy-lucky rendezvous with a local conservation group on the mountain, from Jujuy. They are working on similar issues as what I will be doing, in particular trying to develop a conservation plan from Jujuy down to the Tucuman province regarding protection of the Yungas...selva (jungle). We exchanged emails and when I return north I plan to meet with them and maybe go on a little excursion with them. One of the women in the group is actually doing the same work more or less that I intend to do. She explained to me that they are overwhelmed with so much to do but limited due to lack of data-information. In other words, they know what the problems are, it is obvious to all, but to provide the
information, the proof in official form and convention is difficult. There are researchers in the area but unfortuntely they are unwilling to share their research and, she needs the information now, not later. I assume I will work with them in the future... I´m sure of it. We are too related not to...
All in all my trip has been very good. I have had nothing but luck and good times along the way, and not encountered one bad person or experience at all. If I have encountered a bad person my angel must have held them back...because all is well. And I have not been sick once. I have rambled so much, so I should wrap it up now. I have much more to see and do before I come home...I am trying to come home a week or two early though as I miss you all and realize that I won´t have much more time with you once I head to Montana. Other than quick visits home, my life is changing, in a big way for a long time. Next time I write I will spend a little more time on observations while in Argentina including
the big political mess and problems occuring here right now under the current "president" no one can stand (this is familiar to us, right?) as well as other cultural norms I want to share!
Love to all.... besos y abrazos!
Lorie
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