The Pilgrimage north up 'Route 40'


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Published: April 9th 2010
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Well after leaving Chile and the wilderness of Torres Del Paine it was time to head back to Argentina and to El Calafate. We are working our way north through the ice fields of Patagonia which is shared by both countries. El Calafate is the access point to the incredible Perito Moreno glacier. With a 60m ice wall with huge jagged edges and the rest of the glacier going back for as far as the eye can see, it makes for a very impressive sight. Then you hear a huge deep rumble which is some of that wall breaking up and falling into the lake. This glacier is one of only a few that is still advancing (approx 2m a day) however it is about neutral as it looses about 2m from the front wall a day.

After El Calafate we jumped on a bus to continue the northward pilgrimage to a small seasonal mountain town called El Chalten. Here there are almost as many stray dogs as there are people!
The two main treks here are to the 'Laguna de los Tres' and 'Laguna Torres' which are about 7 hrs each. On our first day Kitty James and I did the hike to 'Laguna de los tres' and were told to look out for wild Pumas along the way (however disappointingly we didn't see any), then reaching the lagoon and glacier at the top of the mountain. Unfortunately Patagonia isn't know for its night life so James and I had to stay in and prepare for the second big hike in the morning. Kitty had started to feel the pace of all this hiking so gave it a miss, we carried on, the steepness of the climb to the lagoon and glacier was enough to test the fittest of hikers (well worth the effort though). We just about made it home with some very heavy legs, Kitty meanwhile had done her bit and prepared the evening meal thank god as we were soon moving on again to Bariloche (Just the 33hrs coach ride!!).

I'm glad to say we arrived at Bariloche unscathed, 2 nights and 1 day on a bus going along 'Route 40' through the Andes, on a road that can only be decribed as a farmers lane who has never discovered tarmac or had the pleasure of driving on it. If you had fillings then you wopuld probably have needed to call your dentist afterwards to tell him they all fell out! Therefore finding an air pillow hours before departure seemed to be a saving grace as i actually managed to get some sleep!

Here in Bariloche we have relaxed by the lake as hiking and trekking have now become swear words in our vocabulary, cycling however is not and we decided to hire some bikes one day and and cycled around a few of the many lakes on the most beautiful day.

Later today we head to the vineyards towards the north of Argentina, therefore another overnight bus but the reward of some wine tours and a warmer climate when we get there.
From Mendoza James and I will then head quickly to Bolivia as it sounds amazing with 'Salt flats', 'The Amazon basin', 'Lake Titicaca' and 'the worlds most dangerous road'!
Good times ahead!

Thanks for all your comments, great to hear whats going on with you all, hope you had a great Easter.

Love Tom xx


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