Puerto Iguazú

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After an easy border crossing from Brazil we arrived in the small town of Puerto Iguazú.

Our hostel, Timbo Posada, was a few hundred metres from the bus station (I admit I guessed the wrong direction at first and the backpack face was not appreciative). The hostel was nice, the 9 bed dorm was spacious with 2 ensuite bathrooms and after the heat and humidity of Brazil, a cooler temperature was appreciated particularly at night when curling up in a blanket was a novelty. We had booked to stay for 2 nights, although in hindsight we may have needed only 1 if we had really mobilised on the first day and got to the National Park, however this 2 night cushion did allow us to have a proper full day at the waterfalls. There isn't really much here in the town, apart from various restaurants, the proximity to the Iguazú falls being its key selling point. That first night we did try some great ice cream for about 30 pesos combined, which always helps our opinion of a place. We used the first afternoon to book our bus down to Buenos Aires, a cash only deal cost us AR$700 each for a 20 hour journey with Cama service. Argentinian buses have a three tier service system: semi-cama, cama and cama suite available, the bus equivalent of economy, business and 1st class on a plane. Cama grants you cold snacks, a hot meal and a larger seat and plenty of legroom (Alex really needs it). Without wanting to sound too keen, we were pretty excited to travel in such style!

We awoke to what seemed a hotel-esk breakfast, tables neatly laid with placemats, cutlery and coffee cups. Pretty much as soon as we sat down a hostel employee brought over freshly squeezed orange juice and a generous portion of lemon drizzle cake. There was cereal, coffee, bread with jams and dulce de leche (like caramel) etc as well. Our first taste of Argentian breakfasts was sweet (we were soon to realise that a sugary start to the day is pretty common).

We had been looking forward to going to the Argentinian side of the falls from the start of the trip, as many people think it is better than the Brazilian side. Having been blown away by the waterfalls in Brazil, we were skeptical about such claims. However we must agree and admit that the Argentinian side wins in our eyes though it is a closely fought battle. We excitedly walked the few minutes to the bus station and booked on a bus to the national park, which is around 30 mins away. It cost AR$70 each return and buses left every half hour.

The morning had been drizzling, but fortunately was clearing up a bit and after paying our AR$170 each entrance fee we were on board the little train to the Devil's Throat part of the falls. Where the Brazilian side offers a more panoramic view, the Argentinian side let's you get very close to the water. The Devil's Throat is where a sharply curved horseshoe of waterfalls all converge. The noise of the water here is amazing and the the spray comes up 50 feet or more over the top, yet strangely visitors don´t get wet. After around half hour here, taking photos and simply watching, being mesmerised by the water, we got back on the train to walk the other trails on offer and head to the undoubted highlight of our day...

...the boat ride that takes you right into some of the falls. It cost AR$220 each and was certainly worth every penny. The trip only lasts 15 minutes but you get up close and personal with the falls and is an experience unlike any other. There are two sets of waterfalls either side of San Martin Island. We first approached one set for photo opportunities and a general view of the cascading water. Then we rounded the island to the other side where the drivers begin to get everyone´s adrenaline pumping, the nervous/excited anticipation building can be compared to the moment you are about to drop on a rollercoaster (so Alex tells me). As we sped into the falls everyone whooped and cheered, it was exhilarating. "Uno mas?" shouted the driver, we didnt hesitate to agree and set off for a second drenching. Thinking this was the last, we then surprisingly went back to the first set of falls to be immersed there too. The water coming down was so powerful we had to close our eyes as it pelted us. One last dip into these falls left us well and truly soaked, so a word of advice: bring spare clothes! What an incredible experience.

The trail walking after the boat ride seemed slightly mundane in comparison, but then the sun came out for an hour, which really topped off an unforgettable day. The sun makes the whole place look even better causing permenant rainbows where the spray rises, making it seem like an oasis or paradise.

Exhausted yet contented, we left the park at 4.10pm and headed back on the bus. You definitely need to dedicate a full day to this side so make sure to build it into your trip.

Once back we had tortellini, cheese and sauce for tea then went for a wander around town. We lucked out and found a little market tucked up a hidden alleyway where locals were busy buying and selling all sorts but most importantly beers, salami, cheese and olives. We sat for around an hour with a big bottle of cold Quilmes and a tray full of fresh produce to sample. It was a great end to the best day of our time away so far.

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