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Published: March 27th 2008
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As the Brazilian side of the Iguazu Falls give a more panaromic view we decided to head back across to Brazil first. Again this involved getting off at the boarder crossing as the bus sped away. Fortuntately we met Francesa and Giuseppe from Milan in Italy. Francesa is an interpreter and speaks a rake load of languages. After the border crossing we walked as far as Hotel Carmen rather than wait for a bus to bring us all the way to Foz. This saved about 30 mins at least by my estimation. The falls are amazing - more like a load of individual waterfalls all lined up together. That night we went for dinner with Francesa and Giusoppe. Paul (yet again) had Argentinen steak while I got a local river fish dish (surabi) with a load of different fruits on it like orange, pinapple etc. It tasted savage. That evening we also had our first taste of Mate the Argentine tea which absolutely everyone drinks all the time - its no Barry´s but Paul decided the pool water tasted better and drank some of that instead.
After the bottle of wine and the Caipirinha we couldn´t get out of bed
Buenos Aires
Tango Dancing on streets of San Telmo until 11 the next morning, which worked out for the best. As it was a Sunday the Argentinian side of the falls were thronged, however by the time we got there we almost had the place to ourselves. There is this cog train that takes you up to the Devils Throat. Its amazing looking down as all you can see is this spray from all the waterfalls. Something you have to see. After that we got this boat ride under the falls. We got well and truely soaked but it was such fun. It was all Argentinian families with young kids on the boat so their excitment made it all the better. The weather is so hot over here that after 20 mins our clothes were completely dry again.
That night back in the pool in the hostel we were taking to Emmanual from Amsterdam (a complete character). He said it was really easy to get across to Paraguay so we decided to go there the following day. Paraguay - the country they sell clothes by the kilo and shop assistants wear skirts that barely cover their ass. As soon as you cross the board you can see how
poor Paraguay is compared to Brazil & Argentina. They seem to have our equivalent of travellers, who were settled by the bus station - all the children running around naked and they seemed to live in tents made from polythene.
I had heard great things about the Argentinian buses but nothing prepared me for the bus trip to Buenos Aires (via Baraloiche). The seats were the size of first class seats in a plane and they reclined fully back. We got served dinner and brekkie on the bus trip (which included red wine). Three films were shown. I thought that with Evan Almighty as the first one they couldn´t get any worse but they did - Transporter 2 and some film about the life of Jesus!!!!
In Buenos Aires we stayed in the centre (Sudamerika Hostel). The cleaning lady got the dates wrong for when we were leaving and nearly belted down the door on Sat morning. Paul was not impressed. On Sunday night the electricity went so the fan wouldn´t work in the room it was roasting. I had to go down and complain so they gave me the keys to another room. The problem then was
the room faced the road so you could hear traffic all morning. If you plan on staying here it is in an excellent location and fantastic value for money but bring your best ear plugs as its noisy.
BA has a real European vibe to the city, with wide roads and old front on buildings. Even the restaurants-bars all look like the inside of places in Rome or Paris. Did the usual sightseeing things and enjoyed strolling around the city and the different districts (Plaza de Mayo, Recoleta, Palermo). Have discovered the most amazing red wine (San Filipe). San telmo had to be one of the highlights as we made it there on Sunday when the whole area is turned into a market. There was excellent street performers (it would put the ones on grafton street to shame) and loads of people doing tonga and milonga dancing. I was in my element.
We took the boat to Colonia in Uruguay, an old town on the sea front. The sea looked filthy but as we discovered it was due to the sand sedements from the bay. We climbed the lighthouse and could just about make out Buenos Aires from
the top.
The price of leather is amazing here so obviously ¨¨we¨¨ decided to do the only practical thing and buy some stuff to ship home. Looking forward to getting the package already when I get home.
Following a very stressful Sat trying to organised how to get to Patagonia we decided to get an overnight bus to Puerto Madryn (Don Otto company). Nothing is open in BA at the weekends including some restaurants, no travel agents etc. Its mad the whole place shuts down. There was an Evangelical preacher in the main square for the weekend (I think his name was Luis Palu). The place was full of families and even people our age and younger. Bands were playing and they were selling I love Jesus hats!!!! Was this what it was like when the Pope came to Ireland?
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aine kelly
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what an adventure
sounds fasinating..hope the tea is growing on u.keep us updated.x