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Published: December 24th 2006
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The Mate itself
No this is not some kind of illegal activity (not that we are aware of), this is the local obcession. The Mate We left Brazil, after only 3 weeks traveling there, we made our way south to Argentina. As you will know from the last entry (which you have read of course 😊 ) , we landed in Puerto Iguazu. The trip here was an uneventfull 3 bus affair; 15 hours from Florianapolis, a local bus to the "Urban bus station" then a bus across the boarder to Argentina from Foz do Iguacu. You will find these places always seem to have 2 bus stations to make life interesting, a long distance station where you take the coaches across country and then the urban bus station where you catch the local busses. What was quite amusing about the urban station at Foz do Iguacu was the it was quite a large, modernish place, with covered bus stops, little kiosks selling snacks etc...., but the bus to Argentina was no where to be seen here. After Josie asked a local, and they asked someone who worked there, it turned out we had to cross the road to this battered little bus-stop, with the sign half hanging off. We got the impression the Brazilians think so highly of the Argentines, they wouldn't allow them into
Daniel Brews Up!
He loves his mate, as you can see :) their modern station but had banished them to this little stop. Anywho , this bus took us over the border, a quick hop off to get the passport stamped, and we were in Argentina.
The first, and most striking thing, was how different everything looked and felt, only a few meters over the border. This is a different country after all, but to have such a difference (including 1 hour in time) in a few short meters was quite surprising. Another striking thing, was that everything, the roads , the cars, the people, the dogs were all covered in a deep red dust. The earth here is a vibrant red colour and as it had been raining the entire place was covered in it. It is quite a weird but beautful sight to see, and really highlights that we are in a different world here.
Puerto Iguazu is the picture of a sleepy town. There are dogs wandering the streets, amuzing themselves by chasing the odd car and sniffing each other. The place is clearly geared towards tourists too, with a disproportionate amount of restaurants to local people to eat in them (not such a bad thing in
our eyes 😊 ). There are natives who roam the streets trying to sell you "ethnic" trinkets of braceletts, wooden toucans and armadillos and other bits and bobs. It is a little sad to see such young kids doing this, all covered in mud, but you can't help but be a little cynical and say, if the tourists and their money wernt here, would they really be here doing this.
Our first meal in Argentina was wait for it........... steak (what else). It was, of course, very tasty and remarkably cheap, I think we are going to like Argentina 😊 We didn't do much else but sleep and find out our plan for our visit to the falls the next day. Oh, and we went to the hostel bar and met the owner Daniel. We were honored to be shown how to make Mate by Daniel. Now you probably havn't heard of mate, and nor had we, but it seems to be an obsession over here. It is a little hard to describe it really, it is a drink, made of some kinda herbal grass stuff, a bit like a herb tea. They drink it out of a little
silver goblet with a filter straw, also made of silver. There is a whole ritual to the whole thing, a way of making it, a way of drinking it, and a way of telling when the drink is all complete and run out. You will have to have a look at the pictures to get a feel for it, as it is unlike anything we have ever seen before. Now when I said it was an obsession, I wasn't joking. You see people walking EVERYWHERE with their thermos of water and their little mate cups. People on motorbikes, people in the street, people walking around the waterfalls, people sat in their shops drinking it. I suspect that it has some kind of addictive "crack" like qualities, but after tasting it, I am not entierly sure. Probably one of those things you had to be born into or something, who knows.
Next was our trip to the cataratas (water falls) at Iguazu. What can you say but absolutely stunning. You really cannot describe the sound of the water roaring over the falls, or the beautifull sub-tropical forests that surround it. The trees were teaming with birds of all kinds, lizards
The Shower
We got wet under these particular falls and plently of rodent action. There were gunea pig type creatures without tails, lizards and other scurrying beasts. We took the "Grande Adventure" package, which was a little dissapointing. A truck ride through the forest which was dull, followed by some rapids in a speedboat, which were bearly noticable. The one thing that was worthwhile was getting up close to the waterfalls. Some places to take close up shots, and then a shower in the falls. In the UK getting this close to something so dangerous and powerfull would be illegal due to health and safety laws, but not here. We went directly under one of the massive falls, and got soaked like never before, a shower doesn't do it justice. Dry to utterly soaked to the bone in about 2 seconds. If you plan to go to Iguazu in Argentina , and get recommended the "Grande Adventure" , save some pesos and just get the boat ride under the falls, it is the only worthwhile bit in our opinion. The rest of the day was spent trecking around the falls and drying out. A truely amazing place that has to be seen to be believed, the photos don't do
it justice.
Before we head off for another steak:
MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!
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Katerina
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Merry Christmas
Hi Josie and Andy! Sounds like you are having a fantastic time and I really love your blog - keep it up! I am back in the UK for a couple fo weeks and relaxing...finally. I just wanted to wish you a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! 2007 is no doubt going to be an exciting one for you! lots fo love xxx