Dulce de Leche gets sweeter in week2


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South America » Argentina » Córdoba
September 6th 2008
Published: September 21st 2008
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Week2 continues form Oh my sweet Dulce de Leche - week1

Day7 - Estancia Jesuítica
Slept without interruption until 7am. Today was going to be the Estancia Jesuítica day (^^)/ Christine and I caught a minibus at 9am, got to Jesús María at 10, grabbed coffee at a gas station and got to the Estancia. We asked for direction but we get bits and pieces of the direction so many bystanders were our victims that morning 😄. From Jesús María, we took a remis to Santa Catalina. People at Jesús María helped us get one - so kind 😊. We had a driver for 40km round drip and ~1hr at Santa Catalina for $70 (~US$24). Many people confirmed that we got an awesome deal!! The driver's Spanish was hard to understand but conversed with him here and there. We had to go on gravel for 13km to Santa Catalina as it was tucked away. It was totally worth it. A beautiful white church popped up in the dry field. The guy explaining the church spoke really clearly and both Christine and I felt awesome understanding spanish. A lot of decorations came from Perú and that the Romans were replaced by the Spaniards in the paintings yadi yadi yada. The Estancia is actually private and we weren't able to visit. On the way back, the driver buckled his seat belt AFTER the gravel part...hmmm? It turns out, on the highways, there are cops giving out tickets for seatbelt (front seats only). After 20pts, the license gets taken away and each point is $70. Ha ha, I got it. We changed couse to be dropped off at Colonia Caloya, another Estancia very close to Jesús María.

So Estancias were established by Jesuits (Catholic effort against Protestants) to support themselves when the home office of the Spanish royal expeled them. In their hay days, they had huge establishments with school and production line.

Colonia Caroya was smaller scale but well maintained. It was a nice day. We sat down by the estancia for last night's left-over pizza. Absolutely nobody was around. We took the bus back to Córdoba. When we got to Córdoba, it was just in time for the Feria (arts & crafts show) which takes place every Sat/Sun evenings. After that, we stopped by Alfonsina and there, I had my first non-teabag mate 😄. As much as everybody drinks it all the time and I see people with mate everywhere, it's rare to find it served at a cafe or a restaurant. An order of mate came with mate with bombilla, a pot full of yerba mate and a thermas full of hot water... First reaction: what am I supposed to do with them?!?! But I mean there can't be much to it - steep the yerba, right? It turns out, I didn't do it quite right :p Mate has grassy flavor but has sweetness and I can see how it's hard to be replaced by other tea.

Dinner was salame y cerveza that Gary bought at a corner market 😄. It was a nice weekend, visiting places with the weather catching up!!

Day8 - Back to work on Monday
A whole week has past...time flies!! Had the usual breakfast and today, I talked to Nelida and Hugo more. I can definitely form sentences better 😄. The class started late today but I left early to go around town for photo-ops to avoid the crowd...somewhat. People were going to work or class so it wasn't all that empty. By now, I had no problem walking around town with my SLR hanging on my neck. People are open here. They seem curious of the foreigner but they seem to be genuinely welcoming.

The class went until 2p...definitely getting easier. Lunch today was La Vieja Esquina, which I've been wanting to go. They serve locro and empanadas. Both are Argentinean staple, nice and hearty dishes...yumm! In the afternoon, I worked on the homework at Nuevo Centro. Subject is getting kinda complicated.

We had roast beef and slaw with wine at the house and went out to Mandarina at 9p. Almost all 20 of us went out that night for more vino 😄.

Day9 - Felia de libro
Back to 9am start today. Among other things, we went over Maná song and I was happy . Went for a quick lunch with the girls at MckeyD's for McFlurry. Ice cream is super huge and cheap here...definitely not complaining. You can get 1 bocha (scoop) for US$0.50!!! You can also get a friggin' huge cup that comfortably fits 3 flavors for less than US$2!!! Naturally, McFlurry is large. MckeyD's also serve medialunas and criollos 😊. I had extra afternoon class because I changed to a shared room because Dietrich joined the house. Extra class covered for the price difference. I got out of the class at 4p and went to the Plaza San Martín for Feria de libro. I wanted to get a cook book. On the way to the feria, I went by the plaza behind Cabildo. There, people play chess. I went up to a man watching the game and asked if it was ok to take a picture. he took picture for me too and talked a bit. He's a writer and was also going to the feria. I'm sure he spoke clearly and everything but it was nice to talk to random people and even more, I was happy that I could actually converse with him in español.

I made it home before dark and Nelida was whipping up fish pie that she had promised me. It's with caballo (mackerel)...muuuy rrrico! With wine, it was perfect!! I had lots of homework but went out for beer at Boca de Lobo. It was a slow night so came back before midnight and finished the rest of the homework.

Day10 - Alta Gracia
So coffee, 2 medialunas, 30min walk to school and class until 1p. Business as usual. I didn't go to the afternoon class because Christine and I went to Alta Gracia. Grabbed goodies at a panadería (criollo, pepitas, colaciones...agh so good). $5.25 took us to Alta Gracia ~1hr south of Córdoba. It's well maintained tranquil town. We visited the estancia by a reservoir - charming - then la casa del che. Che spent his youth there and that is the only museum dedicated to him. Me gustó mucho. Alta Gracia was a beautiful place with mountians in the background. There is a river right in the neighborhood where horses hang out. I saw this because we actually went past our destination on the bus. When everybody else got off the bus, I ran it by the bus driver that we wanted to go to the estancia. He said we passed it and I think he actually flipped the bus for us. People have been just so nice. We were looking for a bus stop to go back and a random lady from the other side of the street saw us and told us in detail how it all worked.

We made it back hungry. Tonight's menu was chicken milanesa with, of course, a bottle of Mendoza wine. It was delicious 😊. After that, we went to the neighborhood cafe for la postre. I had my first submarino, mmm. It's just blocks of chocolate dunked into warm milk - simplicity is a virtue.

Day11 - Genius and Caseratto
Today was a slow day. After school, I went to Genius with Mariana and Melvin. I had my coffee and criollos. We were talking for a while. Today, I was determined to go to Caseratto for ice cream. I heard of this place a few times now and I just had to check it out. I asked the twins at Genius for the direction on the way out. It was actually pretty far - good 15 cuadras toward Parque Sarmiento. After much deserved walking, I reached Caseratto. Dulce de leche caseratto flavor was nice with bits of crunchiness. I also got myself an alfajore maicena to try. Oh man, DdL overload!! From there, I made my way home via Parque Sarmiento. I passed by Nuevo Centro for a bookstore, then the alfajore wholesale to get souvenirs. Then stopped by a cyber cafe.

By the time I got home, it was almost 7p. I quickly worked on my last homework and it was dinner time. Tonight was Nelida's homemade pasta and wine, sooo good. We talked for a while and I decided to retreat for the night.

Day12 - Last day of school
Watched a movie for the class and said goodbye to people. I was there for only 2 weeks while most other people stayed in school or at least in the area much longer. I felt like I was growing into the environment and I was sentimental 😞. Hung out with Rafael at Nuevo Centro and go t my ice cream (Dulce de leche and Chocolate Bariloche with salsa), and went shopping. Back to the food court MckeyD fixings. I tried "Sticks de arroz". it was ~4p and I went back to the house. I passed by the panadería which seemed to be popular but they were closed. But the baker was working and he was going to open later or Sat momrning. I stopped by the internet cafe and ATM. At the house, Nelida brought us pizza to the TV room while we were watching the news on Bolivia and hurricane Ike.

~8:30p, Gary, Christine and I hitched a taxi to Johnny B Good. The
Alta GraciaAlta GraciaAlta Gracia

Reservoir by the estancia
plan was to meet with the people from school there, then go to a club at 1am. ~1, we stopped by Caseratto on the way to the club. I had papas al rhum flavor - very nice and rummy 😊. We got to the club ~2am but it was completely empty. Some of us were talking about taking the party elsewhere but the locals ensured that we were too early. Anyway, I ordered a screwdriver that was like 3:1 vodka:OJ...man. And yes, the place was PACKED when I left ~5am!!!

This is it - last day!!!
I wasn't gonna miss my daily medialunas so I got up at 8:30am, washed off cigarette particles and had breakfast with Gary and Christine. At 10, I had to go to the bakery to pick up my order. I went back yesterday evening but they didn't have enough of alfajorecitos. After that, I said goodbye to Gary, Christine and Nadine as all of us were leaving the house today. I had a few hours to kill so I went to Nuevo Centro for more damage. That's when Nelida told me about Havana's Havannets. At Nuevo Centro, Havana has a little café. I had Café Deleite (espresso with dullop of Dulce de leche) with Havannets (cookie base with yet another dullop of Dulce de leche, all covered in chocolate). Ay que rrrrrico!!! OMG, I couldn't take it anymore it was so good, unbelievable. Eso es paraíso! My baggage was already packed but I had to get the Havannets. I'll fit it somehow!! On the way home, I felt like it wouldn't have been complete without an ice cream so I stopped by Grido and got DdL and almod con salsa. Ah yes, I have done it all.

I talked to Nelida during the last hour at the house. What a difference eh? First day, I couldn't even squeeze a word out of my brain and I couldn't pick up much words when she spoke to me. She is so sweet, telling me stuff like the door is always open for me etc. The time came and I hopped into the taxi. The driver was really nice too - chatted about driving in Córdoba. The ride was only $20...crazy cheap. As I talked with Nelida, I got Havana's dulce de leche with the leftover money 😄. And now, no peso left, it was time
Alfajorecito maicenaAlfajorecito maicenaAlfajorecito maicena

Yes, I hand-carried them home
for me to say chau to Córdoba.

I really didn't know what to expect since i didn't know anyone who's done this but it turned out to be a great experience. I was worried of gimmicky banking-on-tourist thing but the school sincerely helps you learn the language while maintaining good social atmosphere. Students are also there with a similar goal and it was easy getting to know them. Extraño a Córdoba mucho y espero que volver allá pronto...


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Los extraño, chicos!!


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