Patagonian Plains

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Early start to catch the plane (yes, I know, the 4th in almost as many days, but I didn´t fly anywhere yesterday), and the sun has come out to say farewell. Stunning blue sky, with just a few clouds clinging onto the mountains.

No first class ticket this time, just regular economy - never be the same again. Fortunately it´s only a 30 min flight, to Rio Gallago, home to the current Argentinian president. This is where we enter into Patagonia proper. Vast open spaces, with absolutely nothing as far as the eye can see. The Andes way over in the West remove any moisture from the air, and only break the wind for a short time, so the wind blows across the empty space, drying the land, no trees able to grow and provide shelter.

However, here is where the sheep are. Dotted about the dry landscape, alongside Guanacos (wild llama like creatures), and Rheas (ostrich like birds). The landscape looks bleak, and for a while all you can do is stare across and see the emptiness. Eventually the eye drifts upwards, and it is then that you notice the sky. A huge expanse of blue sky with fluffy white clouds being blown across. Visibility stretches for miles, distant hill and ridges appear as mountains,floating in a sea created by the mirage effect of the heat. Apparently the sunsets are amazing. I can imagine they must be incredible.

The Torres del Paine mountains can just be seen on the western horizon, our destination for tomorrow. We stop alongside another bus that has broken down. We are so far from anywhere that the tradition is to help people when you pass - there might not be another vehicle going that way for awhile, and there´s certainly no phone signal to call for help. Within 10mins the bus is fixed, and we head off in opposite directions into the nothingness.

Finally we arrive at our destination, an Estancia. These are ´common´in the area, occasionally you see a spot of green signallying a farm house, where the gaucho lives to tend to his flock, covering vast areas. This particular one is organic, has a genetically improved flock (they buy embryos from Oz, for those interested!), and use rural tourism as a money earner, much as farmers in the UK do. The mountains appear much closer, and form a beautiful backdrop to the rolling plains in front.

After watching some sheep being corralled (fascinating for some, not so much for others, ie me, who has seen one or two sheep before), we head to the garden. And what a garden! The end of summer, and it is full of the most gorgeous ripe strawberries, so sweet it´s difficult to believe they´re real, warm raspberries, mint, carrots, potatoes, currants, cabbagges, broccoli, and peas, row upon row upon row. Quite incredible. We stay and eat , even though supper is only an hour away. Strawberries like that cannot be passed over!

And the peace. It´s so quiet here. the only noise comes from birds. There´s a swing in the garden, overlooking the plains, and it really is idyllic. Well almost. Idyllic for a week, maybe 2. But come winter, when the wind is howling across, and the nearest town is 70km away over a gravel track, you´re totally self sufficient, there´s no phones, and the generator provides the only electricity. Suddenly it doesn´t appear quite so appealing...

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Photos

Patagonia plains...
The real Patagonia... a large expanse of nothing

The Patagonian sky
Just look at the clouds

Patagonia plains
Our estancia, with the back drop of mountains

Comments

[M and D]

Wonderful pix
Clever girl - the pix are wonderful amd make me long to be there! So glad you're getting your fruit and veg - very worried you'd had to live on coke (either kind!). Aol M and D xxxxxxxxs