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Published: September 15th 2012
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There were only a few things we had come to Argentina knowing about the country:
1 they eat steak
2 they dance tango
3 they play rugby, but Maradonna and football are probably better known
At breakfast Harriet discovered the other thing that Argentinians eat all the time- dulce de leche. This is basically caramel just like in banoffee pie or caramel slice and they eat it in everything. For breakfast there were croissants with dulche de leche, pastries with dulce de leche and toast with dulce de leche. Harriet was in heaven.
We took the subte downtown and walked a little way to the neighbourhood San Telmo. On weekends there is an antique fair as well as a street market that caters mainly for tourists. We were hoping to get a feel for the city here, look at the market and see some tango dancers. The market was really cool. There was lots of stuff to look at. Harriet really liked one street performer who was doing the statue thing but in a different way than the usual boring ones. He looked like he was windswept and hurrying and if some one put money on
his tin he changed position.
The tango dancers were a bit of a let down. There was an old couple dancing on the corner but it looked more like a slow shuffle than a tango to us. Another couple in the centre of the antiques fair were posing for photos but didn't seem to actually dance at all. We thought we would look again after a coffee, which we did, but still no luck.
We ambled back through the market towards the subte. We picked up a mate gourd and straw and some mate from one stall. This is a green tea that the Argentinians all drink. You share the cup and drink through the straw. We thought it sounded worth giving it a go, but we will need a thermos like everyone else to fill the gourd.
We had passed a bakery on the way which was selling empanadas. These are another Argentinian staple- little stuffed pastries. We stopped and bought some for lunch along with alfajors. These are biscuits filled with- yes you guessed- dulce de leche. We stopped and ate our little picnic at a bit of grass in the middle of the road.
We chose the bit without the homeless and the drunks. Buenos Aires is not quite the same as Paris. Then we caught a taxi to La Boca.
La Boca is a particularly rough area and you are advised to only go to the tourist part around a street called Caminito. Here the houses are covered in coloured corrugated iron. The dock workers brought home what was left after painting boats and the neighbourhood got its famous look. La Boca is also famous for soccer. Maradonna played for La Boca. Caminito was as touristy as we expected but it was still pretty cool.
We had a glass of beer and watched the performers at the other restaurants dancing. Just opposite where we sat were more tango dancers who seemed to only have photos taken rather than actually dance. Loads of people were taking them up on the photo opportunities though. Round the corner we spotted the worlds best dressed dogs. There were about 5 all in cute little costumes. Toby had to pay the owner for taking photos. We weren't sure how they went to the toilet but we weren't going to ask either.
We took a taxi
9 lanes on each side of the street
No wonder those who can afford it like to commute by helicopter back to the city centre so we could go and hunt down some ice cream. Apparently large numbers of Italians migrated to Argentina and the gelato here is good enough to rival Italy's. Toby and Harriet were on a mission to find out if it is true. The first place we tried they weren't blown away by, but there are plenty more options.
The main street was something a bit different. We have visited busy cities on this trip and at other times. Fiona even learnt to drive in London. But we have never seen a road with 18 lanes. There are 9 lanes on each side of the street and even on a Sunday it was busy. We don't think we will drive in Buenos Aires.
Toby bought a thermos form the supermarket around the corner from the hotel so we could drink mate. He also reported back to Harriet that there are shelves and shelves of dulce de leche. We may have to restrain her. The mate was OK. It is refreshing and makes a funny noise when you suck it through the straw. Harriet isn't interested.
To finish a particularly culinary day, we went
to a Parilla. This is a grill or steak house. Harriet and Toby shared a steak and Fiona had grilled cheese. The food was good but still not amazing. But when it came to dessert the restaurant excelled. Harriet ordered a crepe filled with - do I really have to even say it - dulce de leche. It was awesome.We went to bed dreaming of dulce de leche.
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