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Published: January 20th 2010
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A Quick Dose of City Life
Our traveller's have arrived in Bueunos Aires. Things get off to a dodgy start (warning - watch out at the airport if you travel there) with a security guard directing us to a tout stand for an 'official' taxi where the tout rushes us into a cab. While paying, the tout tells Sue she's given him ten pesos instead of a hundred. The cab's on it's way off when she realises that she's short of money - the tout's tried to con her that she handed over the wrong fair. All is revealed when Sue makes the cabbie return to the stand to confront the tout and he immediately give her the 'oops, my mistake', doesn't even quibble it, hands back the money and makes off (there are security guards nearby). The cabbie turns around and nods in approval. Well done Sue, upholder of justice.
OUr journey to Buenos Aires ("That tout's always giving me trouble", the cabbie reveals) reveals it to be a very European-looking developed place in reasonable condition considering how the Crunch has affected Argentina. it feels very different to Peru and Bolivia which have such a high percentage of
Pooches on Parade
Remember, look both ways first! native Ameroindians in the population so it doesn't feel as south American. The accommodation is in Palmero, which Sue's research has shown to be a pretty trendy area with lots of bars and restaurants along a strip with kind of a Shoreditch feel to it. The apartment is really nice and boutique-like (at last a bath!) and is kind of a reminder of home. There's also a very nice deli/cake shop across the road, yum.
There's a very strong Italian influence in Argentina from the history of people migrating to the region and it's quite apparent. Not in the least from the owner of the apartment who is the picture of an Italian diva and although she's speaking Spanish if you didn't know the language at all and had only heard the 'la la-la la-la' way that Italians speak you'd think you where somewhere on the continent. The strange thing for Sue is actually understanding what they're saying. Even Tim (who's Spanish is poor at best) can tell the intonation of certain obvious words has changed - it's kind of slurred and a bit like the equivalent of someone from down south trying to understand a broad Glaswegian accent.
A lot of the stock small phrases are all different from Spain, too. Tim's really concious of being totally dependent on Sue to get by here - you'd have to be a Spanish speaker and a pretty good one too to do much more than simply get by.
The day of arrival is Friday and it's straight out to soak up the Buenos Aires nightlife along the main strip of Palmero. The Italian influence is apparent again in the food and after having lived with weird interpretations of food for a while in Peru and Bolivia it's great to get some pretty authentic spagetti bolognese - to the backdrop of loads of stylish people swanning about incredibly fashion concious, looking and speaking very south Mediterranean.
Palmero is heaving with people as the night wears on with lots of people out to enjoy themselves. Our intrepid travellers (mainly Tim, actually) are caught up in the feeling of it all and insist on checking out some of the more happening places in Buenos Aires. A quick spot of iPhone action and a deft bit of cabbie translation later they find themselves... miles away at a nightclub that's no longer open on Fridays. Oh dear. The place across the road is open at least so it's an opportunity to get down with some Buenos Aires students. You've got to try these things.
After that initial display of energy the physical debt of having been for so long at altitude starts to tell it's toll - a sign of travel fatigue and perhaps time for a rest. A lot of time is spent enjoying some films with Spanish subtitles (and a reminder of how much Tim and Sue have missed films). Bizarrely, they've started screening The Mighty Boosh - in English with subtitles. Tim wonders how that humour is going to come across the translation gap.
It's not all rest and no play, though. Possible plans to see some polo on the Saturay are scuppered by afternoon rain but they do venture out into town to have a look around and get a few bits and bobs. One of the stranger sights in Buenos Aires is by virture of the local's love of four-legged friends. Professional dog walkers are a common sight in Buenos Aires.
All this on the way to visit the Cementerio de la Recoleta where Eva Peron (aka Evita) now lies. It's very strange walking about the crypts - a place like Recoleta can't help but leave one feeling reflective.
No trip to Buenos Aires would be complete without seeing some tango, this was Sue's best memory from last time she visited sveral years ago when she saw tango in a local bar. This time they thought they would visit to a milongas. Originally there had been plans to do a full course of tango lasting at least a week what with Tim's facination with the dance but... a visit to a milongas reveals it to be realistically beyond a week's study. The great thing about the milongas is the really informal nature of the setting - it's really just a bunch of people who can 'do a bit of tango' at all kinds of levels with a few instructors flitting about. The highlight is two professional couples - one of traditional and one of the more modern flambouyant style - who strut their stuff. Watching this after a couple of beers Tim and Sue can't help wondering if maybe some more time ought to have been spent here.....
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