More Madness in Buenos Aires

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Hola!!

Once again I return with another instalment of the ever growing frustration that becomes my holiday to South America. Apart from the type of frustration that comes with speaking next to no Spanish (though it is improving ever so slightly), the administrative anal retentiveness of the Brazilian Embassy screwing traveller's the world over, but most particularly, completely ing over Australians. But more on that later....

The day after my last periodical, I headed over to San Telmo to bask in the hilarity that comes with the Sunday flea markets that line Calle Defensa and the area surrounding Plaza Dorrego. A late start, as I was still quite jet lagged, and for that very reason was getting to sleep at the even worse hour of 6am, I awoke groggy eyed sometime in the afternoon. The sun has finally come out of hibernation, and it is truly a beautiful day, perfect for another bimble. Passing Plaza de Mayo and heading towards San Telmo, the markets creep up on you like that arsehole who tried to steal my bag at this very internet cafe (i suppose that's to be expected as this is the only internet cafe i've found that's open past 9pm). As the sound of tango swoons through the air, the peddlers on the side of the road build, trying to sell their wares, beit leather goods, to handicrafts, to paintings... all the usual stuff that comes with markets. As I near Plaza Dorrego, the crowd builds, and it's like the area around Fontana de Trevi in terms of tourist density, and feel. I'm soon rubbing shoulder to shoulder with traveller's from all over the world and locals alike. What makes this market so interesting to me in particular is that this area is noted for it's antiques, which basically means, it's a whopping great garage sale, as anything and everything that dealers have dredged up from basements and attics, all come out on display, waiting for someone to snap them. The large number of gramaphones, in various states of ware, were intriguing, and I was tempted by a set of really old aviator goggles, until the vendor says they were going for 450 pesos.

If you like markets, it's quite easy to lose yourself in these few streets for the entire day. Certainly, I found it more interesting than bazaars like Khan-el-Khalili in Cairo, where all the stalls, after a while, tend to be a replica of another. Given the random nature of what you can find, for me at least, it could be fun searching through the junk, looking for the hidden treasure.

And that's before I start on about the street theatre, and tango shows, and food (hot toffee dipped in freshly made popcorn, all on a stick, what genius!!).

After such a nice day in San Telmo, the ensuing days prove to be much less exciting. Having completely exhausted myself on the Sunday, I basically slept all Monday (which was a public holiday anyway), the only highlight of which was that I ate yet another whoppingly huge steak at the local parilla. I find steak is quickly becoming the Buenos Aires version of my rosti obsession in Switzerland. Sooo bad, but sooo good..

I suppose this brings me to my frustrations with the Brazilian Embassy, where I wonder if part of their training requires them to undergo having an umbrella opened in their ass. Having visited them on Friday to enquire about the information required for getting my tourist visa, I return this morning to bump into the same three Aussies that I met on Friday (backpackers, naturally, bimbling around Argentina, before heading to Brazil and Central America, before coming back for Carnival). Outside the consulate, they are blowing off some steam, as they had all been refused visas, as they haven't got all their details in order, and despite thinking that I had all mine, the embassy refused because my bank statement was not printed on the day, regardless that there have not been any transactions over the weekend. AND WHY is there no internet cafe within short distance of the consulate, so I'm running back and forth to get everything in order, AND once you've been approved, they send you off to another building (3 blocks away) to pay for it!! It got to a point where one of the aussie chicks i met was swearing at the clerk at embassy, who threatened to not approve her visa unless she apologised!! Obviously, we were not impressed.

After all the administrative drama of the morning, a quick bite to eat (yes, MORE STEAK!!!), then I headed back to Recoleta to visit the cemetery for the afternoon. It's really great to see all the different styles of tombs, and besides not really knowing what the significance of each of the people were (other than that they were notable argentinian actors, poets, doctors, ministers, presidents etc - and names of various roads in Buenos Aires), it was good for a quiet stroll. As I was dumb (or is that smart) enough to buy a map, I was left giving every one directions to Eva Peron's tomb, which is at her family's tomb (Familia Duarte), hidden away if a little alley off the main route, which apart from some flowers, is relatively simple compared to the outrageously designed tombs of others throughout the cemetery.

So yes, it has been a frustrating few days, but I guess that's all part of travelling. 3 more days left in Buenos Aires, and I hope to check out Palermo Viejo, and a bit more Puerto Madero and that's it, off to Rio!! I'll probably wait until I return to BsAs on the tour before I catch a futbol game or check out La Boca.

Till next time, Hasta leugo!!

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