Sailing through

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(as I am currently in Cordoba, I will paste photos for this installment when I get some images downloaded)

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19th November - Sunday
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My huggy Slavic self has found itself in heaven as it seems that everyone here hugs-kisses on every arrival and departure.! I know that some of my British (especially male) chums would run for cover, but as you may suspect, I feeling at home (I´ve even thought of 'play going away' to see if its real ; ) ).

Finally, a chance to spend more time with my hospitable adopters in San Isidro, Martinez, a quiet, leafy, Barnes-like suburbs of Buenos Aires. Emma Oliva Day is a sister of my dear friend Marcos (and Malala) from Patagonia. As she is a teacher we share the same understanding of the importance of progressive education but also seem to have similar sensibilities in other areas of life. Her mother Maria has Alzheimer{s, but retains the outlines of her spirit and beauty.
Emma's two sons Facundo and Federico Ruiz have graciously given up their rooms for me to use.
Facundo is studying law part-time, works for a computer company and speaks English with most confidence. I have enjoyed his thoughtfulness during our brief (both have busy social lives) chats and appreciated his attentive humanity.
Federico is younger, has striking Argentinean features, appears confident and 'holds in'. He is taking a year out to go to New Zealand so we might meet there again at some stage.

Due to a lovely connection with Oliva Day-Ruiz family I now have to explain to the other family that I will not need the room or the key to their mansion as I'm hijacking one of the guys rooms while they share another (at Facundo's insistence).
Anyway, on my second day, 'my' bed and a some stuff I left on it were territorially united by family's cocker-spaniel, Attos. Who am I to argue with an enthusiastic, affectionate Musketeer with forgivable eyes.

This morning I was invited to join Frederico's and Facundo's friends, sailing on La Plata. At first sight, it is hard to believe that I was not looking at the sea. With its 60 km, La Plata is the widest river in the world, with Uruguay on it´s other bank, unseen to my eyes. It averages 2m depth and is influenced by the tides even though the sea proper is about 400km away.

I have been welcomed by the sailing gang with slight curiosity and usual temporary change in behaviour, resulting from an unknown joining their ranks.
Soon Ernan, Mateo, Huan, Frederico and Facundo were chilling out with music, beer, chatting and reinforcing their connections.
"Rhapsody" is Ernan´s beautiful 'labour of love'. He restored her, sanding until his fingertips disappeared... yet he shared her with lightness and joy. I felt privileged and happy to be on the water, flowing and sharing a moment in their life and what Buenos Aires can offer.

The sailing part of the river was packed with boats so our captain led us to a small green tributary where we anchored together with another boat, belonging to his friends. As sun was throwing more chill-out vibes to the day (assisted by a mix of reggae and Coldplay), bringing orange hue, cricket chorus and birds flying over, I was introduced to Mate. This well known gaucho tea reminded me of the earthy smell of henna but had a strong, grassy, almost salty taste. It was drank from a traditional, round leathery or metal-framed, artisan, dried squash cup through a straw-like, sieve-spoon. Sharing it seemed to have elements of ceremonial reverence.

It has been too long since I sailed last time...it is such a true/real thing to do. Thank you guys/Ernan.

Back on terra firma, strolling in the warm evening in Martinez amongst the fragrant flowering linden (lime) trees, with my adopter dog - Attos. His life is about many things, including hugs, food, walks and...Bin Laden. I have watched him in hysterics as at the mere mention of Hitler or Bin Laden he would perk up and 'be on the case'; growling and searching!
I am looking at the ways of brokering a deal leading to his rental to the USA military.

Every visitor brings variety to the table. So, my interests and journey brought a gentle challenge from Emma´s boyfriend Willie (a chef and a restaurant owner of anglo/german ancestors) over a great gnocchi dish.
I enjoy being challenged as it is good not to take one's own 'stories' for gospel or for granted, but as my 'bro' Dado valuably reminded me, one should also not feel guilty for being or seeking to be oneself.

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20th November
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A strange day of familiar official atmosphere/project presentation/fund seeking in BA. I attended Gail´s (a colleague from Royal Botanical Gardens Kew ) talk at the Camara de Comercio Argentino-Britanico on Kew's part in biodiversity and education partnership project with Los Algarrobos foundation. It was good to see her briefly and see that the partnership is taking off. An impressive 10000 teachers have undergone the education for sustainable development training, offered via radio, and provided by Los Algarrobos. I am due to join them next week.

On my way there I've stumbled across an organic cafe and had a great chilled-out brunch until lunch hour crowds squeezed in and reminded me that I'm in a very busy city. Walking towards the meeting I came across a demonstration in front of the government building, supported by fireworks but contained. Apparently they are a regular occurance.
It all feels a bit strange and unknown, yet familiar...as I suspect every new town feels to an urbanite traveler.

After the talk, I've decided to stumble some more as this was a first time since my arrival that I was properly on my own in BA. I was getting a feel for the long geometry of the car infused avenues, purple violet flowers of jacaranda trees, adorned cupolas on architecture that can compete with any city in the world, pedestrianised Florida street shopping bustle and the mix of native, Spanish and other faces and influences.

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21st November
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'Staying in is new going out'...thus, a day of writing a diary...organising my mini-home in a rucksack...feeling the gentle underlying unease of getting used to slowing down, reading and planning ahead...
By night time 'cabin fever' is trickling in. Attos to the rescue; a night walk to the river with my tail-wagging new shadow.
(Netty, if you think Carpet is a gym instructor in hand muscle department...he´s got a friend in Argentina.)
So good to just be outside and listen...it wipes out the language, culture, dimensions and positions on the map. The river walk is right by the nature reserve, so the sounds were a mix of waves splashing, cicadas holding a tone, crickets of different types interspacing with jazzy staccatos, strange bottle-clinking sound growing to an orchestral piece...couldn´t find out if those are frogs or birds of some description as I could not access the reserve-lake part...
As my musketeer started wagging for home, a group of young musicians on the bank were settling into an encore in the improvisations to the sounds in the background...adding classical tales of their own...cello was interrupted by a violin that was joined by some sort of shaker and a guitar...
If I had a hammock....

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22nd November
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The next morning I´ve decided to have a walk to the river in the daytime....with my, by now, very attentive and fateful hairy compadre...He listened to most of my directives, waiting for me when I let him go off the leash and coming back to spur me on.
Until, we came to a leasure grassland plateau by the river...
Admittedly it was hot and he did stop twice when I called.
However, with a happy woof and a splash I was given a lesson on how one should not challenge one´s natural urges. The people around me were amused (together with me) as Attos could not climb the verge of the drop off.. and I had to pull him out...determined that falling into the river is not a type of refreshment I wanted....I pulled out a wet dog that was growling in indignation at the interruption of his fun.

River was meant to be the theme of the day as I met another of Marcos´s friends. Florencia, an intelligent English speaking journalist was 'charged with' sharing some of her time with me. She just came back from UK prospecting for a university but decided it was too expensive.
Florencia took me to the wind-surfer hang out on the river and we talked about the places I was traveling to next, ecology and politics in Argentina, hardworking boyfriends, holidays in Brazil and worrying mothers.

Coming back 'home' (as most of you know, for me that has become a place where I sleep), I joined another 'cinema night' (last night it was 'House of Flying Daggers') with amusing but forgettable film with Owen Wilson...It´s funny how in spite of the fact that film remained in English and I don´t really speak Spanish, I kept trying to read Spanish subtitles..Anyone else does that?

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