plunge into mother ganges
January 22nd 2008 Arriving in Varanasi from Delhi was like taking a gasp of fresh air after holding your breath for a tic too long... Somehow, defying the dreary expectations of our book, we found an amiable rikshaw driver who took us to a comfortable and cheap hotel with a pleasant rooftop restaurant not far from the ghats; our cute room hosted a private bath, pink walls (even a roll of pink toilet paper!), and
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