Hardy pottery in the secret chambers
July 8th 2007 Our trip to Xi'an was a slog, though I won't arouse any sympathy when I say we went soft-sleeper. The first leg of the journey was overnight from Dunhuang to Lanzhou. We had the pleasant surprise of a compartment to ourselves and also tried out the dining car, where we were the only occupants not ignoring the "No Smoking" signs and were lucky that another passenger helped us to decipher the handwr
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