Things get strange in Sicily.
January 13th 2007 I’ve arrived in Catania - a gritty, bustling university town -with the hopes of breaking Syracuse’s lonely spell. I’ve sent a few desperate dispatches to local CouchSurfers and booked a bed in a hostel with a lively reputation. I’ve made a few more futile stabs at picking up some Italian. (“What is your religion?” my phrasebook suggests as a conversation-starter.) On the bus from Syra
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