Land of 4000 Pogodas

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Geo: 21.3667, 95.4667


Today I had a nice breakfast at the Ruby True Hotel and Nyunt Win came to pick me up dot on time, he was going to drive me to see the temples for the whole day in Ac car and also be my guide.


He is a devout Buddhist and he came well recommended so I was pleased that he was free to take me to see the temples. He spoke English very well and told me about the history about the Bagan Temples, I liked the flowers in his car.
Myanmar's treasuries were built long ago by kings thrilled with the arrival of Theravada Buddhism in the region. The really significant history of Bagan begins with King Anawrahta in 1033 AD, who was converted to Theraveda Buddism and a temple building frenzy created some of the most wonderful Buddhist temples in the world with the construction of the pagodas was to gain merit and to achieve nirvana. There are over 4000 pagodas in Bagan, Pagodas as far as your eyes can see.

A chinthe is a lion like creature often seen at the entrances of pagodas and temples in Myanmar and other parts. Most temples are only accessible via sandy "paths".
The golden stupa of Shwezigon pagoda is the Bagan's most important reliquary shrine, there are images of 37 nat's shrine housed in a small hall, Shwezigon Pagoda became the prototype for later Myanmar Pagodas and it is similar to the Shwedagon pagoda in Yangon. It was quite blinding with the glittery gold and white tiled floors, I saw the image of the Prince Siddhartha on a horse. After wandering around a bit with my guide, Nyunt Win we found a quiet spot to sit and he told me about the teachings of Buddhism and meditation, while we watched the locals come and perform their worshipping duties, it was very peaceful here.


Sulamuni Temple stands near the Dhammayangyi Temple and was built in A.D. 1181 by King Narapatisithu, the interior was once painted with fine numerous frescoes. The name itself means "crowning Jewel" or a small Ruby. Experts believe it was designed and built by the Indian architects in a fusion of Mon and Indian influence, It is revered by the Burmese and is one of the four surviving temples in Bagan, It was damaged by an earthquake in 1975 but restored now, I liked the murals here.
Damamayangyi Pagoda is the biggest temple in Bagan, dating from 1170 AD that is famous for its interlocking mortar less brickwork and can be seen anywhere in Bagan. There are bats lurking at the temple and there are few ghost stories and rumour s about the temple being haunted.

Gubyaukgyi is close to Wetkyi-in village, this 13th-century 'cave temple' has an Indian-style spire like the Mahabodhi Paya in Bagan. Gu meaning "cave" in Myanmar. It is interesting for the fine frescoes of scenes from the jatakas. to distinguish it from the temple of the same name in Myinkaba, this monument is sometimes called 'Wetkyi-in Gubyaukgyi'. The wall painting has depicting scenes from the previous lives of the Buddha, each scenes is painted on a small, square panel which is neatly delineated. It was written in four languages - Myanmar, Pali, Mon & Pyu. The murals have faded a bit but still very interesting; Nyunt Win had brought the torch to show me the details.





Thatbyinnyu is the tallest temple measuring 61 meters and known as temple of omniscience and dating from 1144 AD during the reign of King Alaungsithu. The temple is a brick masonry building covered in white stucco and stone pavements, thresholds and as reinforcing elements. It is adjacent to the Ananda Temple and it is shaped like a cross, but is not symmetrical. The temple has two primary storeys, with the seated Buddha image located on the second store. There were many hawkers selling various things on the steps, the pagoda is used for viewing rest of the pagodas and for sunset.






Ananda temple is a magic cave full of wonder and is a white washed masterpiece of Mon architecture with four huge standing Buddha statues and the face of the Buddha changes. There is a series of 80 reliefs' murals depicting the final life of the Buddha from His birth to His enlightenment is incredible, this is one of the largest and finest Bagan temples.It was built by King Kyanshittha in 1091, Experts believe it was designed and built by the Indian architects in a fusion of Mon and Indian influence. It is revered by the Burmese and is one of the four surviving temples in Bagan, It was damaged by an earthquake in 1975 but being restored now. The front entrance has the Smiling Buddha which is clever sculpturing and a perfect optical illusion so from near Buddha is smiling but from far he looks sad. I bought some berries from lady selling them near the entrance and they were Yum.



We passed through Tharaba gateway where in the niches on the eastern side see two statues representing Nat shrine before entering into old Bagan. The old city walled Moat which was but in middle of the century, has only one gate left, I got out for a quick look and to take the pictures.
The Buleithi Pagoda which is in the Centre of Bagan is a good spot to photograph the surrounding countryside and other pagodas collectively; I took many pictures of the other pagodas from here.
King Manuha was held captive in Bagan and the legend says that Manuha was allowed to build Manuha temple in 1059 and that he constructed Manuha temple to represent his displeasure at captivity. Inside the three seated Buddhas face the front of the building and in the back there's a huge reclining Buddha.

All seem too large for their enclosures and their cramped, uncomfortable positions are said to represent the stress and lack of comfort the 'captive king' had to endure. It is said that only the reclining Buddha, in the act of entering nirvana, has a smile on its face, showing that for Manuha only death was a release from his suffering, I found this pagoda very interesting.
Htilominlo is the last Myanmar style temple build in Bagan and is one of the largest temples of Bagan that was built about 1221 AD by King Nandaungmya. It's a two-storied building structure stands 50 meters above the ground and this temple has fine plaster carvings on the arch-pediments, pilaster and frieze. There are nice views of Bagan from this Pagoda.


Gawdawpalin Temple is 12th century temple was built by King Narapatisithu and about 60 meters high. The sunset over the scenic beauty of the Ayeyarwaddy River with the backdrop of Tankyitaung Hill and the view of ancient Bagan can be seen from the upper terrance of the temple. At Khay Min Ga Temple, we saw many pagodas till eyes could see and it is also good place to take the pictures.
Dating back to the 18th Century, Nat Taung Kyaung is the oldest teak religious building still surviving in Bagan. The monastery is finely carved with rosettes and other shapes; the roof is beautifully decorated with wooden statues and carvings. There were hardly any tourists here so made it very tranquil here.




The sheer quantity of the pagoda's and temples scattered randomly through the land was very interesting but now I was templed out and in desperate need to be somewhere cooler, less dusty. Nyunt Win took me to the Moon's vegetarian restaurant, I asked him to join me for dinner but his wife had already made dinner so I got him a drink. I had a lovely meal of vegetarian curry, nan, and fresh juice which was all delicious. There were birds hopping about and I saw beautiful nests on the trees there; I admired the nests as I get many wild birds in my garden in London. The service at the Moons restaurant was excellent and it was really enjoyable having dinner in such pleasant atmosphere. I also liked the tamarind sweets so I bought some for my daughter. I would recommend this restaurant for the vegetarians and non vegetarians as well.



Then we went to the river to see the sunset which was beautiful, I arranged with Nyunt Win to pick me up next day to take me to the airport, He arrived five minutes early. And guess what? He brought me a present of the bird nest; now that is so sweet of him. Nyunt Win is a wonderful gentle person who spend his time to teach me meditation and about Buddhism, he is well knowledgeable and one of the kindest man I met in Myanmar. I am so pleased that I spend the whole day with a local who knows Bagan very well. I will always treasure my present and the birds will be pleased as well.

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