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Published: October 16th 2015
Western Australia Adventure Tour - 27th - 15th October 2015
To my surprise there was only 4 of us booked on this tour, all of which were women with "Duffman" our tour guide. Poor bugger! He would have nerves of steel by the time we'd finished. In our introduction meeting we discovered more about one another. Bettie was from Illinois, Krizs was from Hungary originally, now living in Sydney and Sue was from the North East of England now living in Melbourne. We were all ages so this would make for an interesting trip with very different backgrounds with a very laid back Ozzie leader who was eager to please. We grabbed some dinner nearby and a few glasses of wine before heading to bed for a nice early start the following day with the drive to Kargoorlie. Up early with a picnic breakfast in the Tour Leaders room before meeting Gemma that would be our Tour bus for the next 21 days we got ready for the 8 hour drive to Kargoorlie. On the way we made a number of stops including a break on the Merredin Plains to view the wildflowers, we were then back on the bus
until we got to the town of Merredin, where we took a quick lunch stop. Our journey was following the famous 650km water pipeline which connected Perth and Kargoolie. We passed many small towns including some which were just a garage in some cases. We also passed the town of 'Southern Cross' which is the star formation that appears on the Australian flag. The landscape changed as we headed to Kargoolie with large dried out salt lakes interspersed with thicker bush. Once we arrived, eight hours later, we quickly dumped our bags and headed to the end of the pipeline which was at an elevated section on the outskirts from town. From here we watched the 'Sunset' and the 'Supermoon' appear. The so called 'Supermoon' is when the moon looks at its largest as it's proximity to earth is at its closest point. Both were beautiful and it was nice to view the town of Kargoolie light up as darkness fell. It had been a relaxed first day and although we had covered a vast distance it had passed quickly with the changing unusual landscape. 'Duffman' our guide whipped up a lovely home cooked meal which I washed down with
a bottle of red and got to know my new companions a little better whilst the 'Supermoon' shone brightly above. Next morning it was time to see why this town had been created out in the middle of nowhere. The answer; Gold! We were in Australia's gold mine area and about to visit the 'Super Pit'. Given it wasn't something I was overly interested in, the tour blew me away from the sheer size of the trucks and equipment being used to mine the Gold in this vast crater. It made me reminiscent of my final project at work where we demolished a building and although their stuff was bigger we were far more controlled and intricate. It was interesting to find out, that it is mainly women who drive the these large items as they make better drivers and pay more care and attention! The Super Pit only employs locals from the area and they estimate there's at least enough gold in the ground to be mined until 2036. The Super Pit is the largest mine but there are another 80 in the surrounding areas. For me personally, there's not enough money on earth for me to want to
live in Kargoolie. It's far too remote and it had a 'Royston Vassey' feel about it! It's a local town for local people! ? Still it had been an interesting experience. One of the small local squares had been also been bombed by the local knitting group where urban items are brightened up by the use of knitted/crocheted squares. This looked pretty cool in the centre of the town. After lunch it was a flying visit to the Doctors as in the Royal Flying Doctors Services - Western Operations. It was a little dissapointing that we couldn't actually see one of the planes and this was solely because they were being used. The presentation we had, about how this service is used in Oz just stressed the lifeline it really is for those in remote areas. If there's one thing I will take from Australia is that there's nowhere really remote in Britain. At least not like this. There's some quiet corners at home but it's nothing compared to the vastness of this huge country. I couldn't believe either, that they charge you out here for Ambulance transfer. With abit of luck I will never find out how much or
that New Zealand is slightly more reasonable! ? It was back on the bus for another long journey, this time heading south to Esperance. Tonight we'd be experiencing 'swags' to sleep in. When we arrived it was already dark and to my surprise we pulled into a Caravan park. Oh, I thought maybe we'll be in a caravan instead. No! To my dissapointment we would be swagging, which meant sleeping in sleeping bags suitable for the outdoors in the open air supposedly to view the beautiful starry sky. It's a little difficult to do this when your neighbours are in top of the range caravans lit up like a Christmas Tree! This was not the true Oz experience I had imagined it was going to be! Anyhow it took another bottle of red to get me on board and I hoped the sorry sad situation would look better in the daylight. It didn't!!! I was a right grump. It was cold during the night. The sun made an appearance around 5am and that's all I wanted to do was take a shot gun to the surrounding birds! Luckily there was no time for a meltdown. Today we were going to
'Cape Le Grande National Park' a UNESCO heritage site and it was going to be, all about the hiking and spectacular views! I couldn't wait and I was not dissapointed. Our first trail, or scramble would be more accurate, was up a granite hill named 'Frenchmans Peak'. This was a short but hard climb with the reward being so worth it. I had 360°C views of the amazing landscape comprising of bush, white sand coastline, intense blue water and the archipelago. I couldn't take it all in. It was sheer beauty, the way the different environments fused together to create this wonderland. I felt on top of the world! It was amazing. On the way back to the bus we passed some rather large native lizards aptly called 'Goanna' which were pretty cool and who seemed content to pose for a photo whilst eating. It was then onto 'Hells Bay'. This place was like paradise. The glistening blue waters tempting you in. I thought, why not. It'd be nice to take a dip after this morning's hike. Again it was ice cold! This now made sense why no-one else was in there. ? At least it was good for my
muscles. We enjoyed a few hours here, a picnic lunch and the sheer beauty. Next it was onto the second hike of the day. This time we were going through the bush. Only two of us were up for doing it, so we got dropped off at Rossiter Bay and from there we would hike through the bush to Lucky Bay where we'd all meet up. The good news the marker points were easy to follow as the two poms winded their way through. The best bit, spotting Kangaroos in their natural habitat, grazing happily as we passed by. It was a fantastic experience. We reached 'Lucky Bay', an arched expanse of white sand and walked along the beach. As we neared the end, more kangaroos were feasting on the small amounts of dried seaweed so it was another chance, to get up close and personal with these indigenous creatures. It had been a superb day and before I faced another night in my swag, I enjoyed a fab steak dinner washed down with a little more vino! This day was what I wanted my trip to give me and it couldn't have been better. I added a few more
layers to my external bed before snuggling down as we would be making our way west tomorrow towards Albany. It was another beautiful coastline full of picturesque bays. We went to the King George Sound area and visited Salmon Bay, Misery Bay and Frenchmans Bay. We drank in the fantastic views of this place and enjoyed the surrounding bush in full bloom which was an array of colour. Within the King George Sound there was a naturally formed blowhole which was cool to listen too and even see, when the waves gathered enough momentum to crash into the coast. You could see the immense pressure created from natural forces. It had been a lovely relaxing day in the area of Albany and got even better when we arrived at our accommodation for the evening. It was a two bedroom chalet so I had my own room with a really comfy bed. Tonight we would dine out in the 'Three Anchors'. I have found Oz, to be hit and miss with my dietary requirements and also very expensive so it was a relief to find some GF options to choose from. I went for the steak, over salad option which was
served with smoked bacon risotto cake, pan fried brussels sprouts and sweet potato mash. It was very tasty and made a nice change. It was dessert that was the highlight of the evening, with an Oz take on Eton Mess and Choc Ice with a biscuit base served with salted caramel sauce. They were pretty large portions so we shared them between us. It was a fantastic finish to what had been a truly amazing day. Next morning it was another early start with us making our way from Albany to Margaret River. On the way we visited the 'Valley of the Giants' and did a Tree Canopy and Ancient Woodland walk. Both were very easy and gave a different perspective on the size of these giant trees which can grow to 70m. The Tree Canopy walk reached a maximum height of 40m which felt pretty high but nothing compared to those trees that still towered above. From there we then went to visit the 'Diamond Tree' which stands at 54m which can be climbed. It is used today as a look out point to ascertain the location of a bush fire. It was pretty scary climbing it, as there
are large gaps between each of the foothold bars that have been screwed in. There's no safety gear, so the risk is all yours!After a few failed attempts and false starts, I bit the bullet and went for it. The views were amazing and I was chuffed I'd got over my fear to continue to the top. It was dark by the time we reached Margaret River, our home for the next two nights. After a quick freshen up we headed to a local bar called 'Settlers' for some food. I scored some GF Pea and Ham soup with a side order of chips and made my way through their excellent wine menu. The portions were huge and the food, a real bargain at £7! ? A band named the '12 Cadillacs' provided some great music whilst the locals danced the night away entertaining us until midnight with their unique moves. It was the first time I had witnessed anything 'OPEN' past 10pm in W.A.! It was a great night and thoroughly enjoyed by all even if it was abit of a rough establishment. By this I mean, they swapped our glass drinking vessels to plastic ones half way through
the evening to protect us against being glassed! Oh well we were definitely experiencing the real Oz here! Today we would take in Margaret River in the daylight. Our first task was to have a surf lesson but the swell on the sea was far too big for us first timers. Feeling very relieved we got to kayak up Margaret River instead. This was loads of fun especially when we were zig zagging between the river banks from the lack of coordination we had. It was a lovely day and nice to get some exercise in before an afternoon of eating and drinking. We made it to the first Vineyard by 12:30pm. We grabbed some Lunch to line our stomachs. This for me came in the form of a fab spinach, pepperoni and goats cheese pizza with of course a glass of Malbec. Then the fun began....11 different tastings in Hays Wines, followed by a Cheese tasting place, 3 Oceans winery with 3 tastings in there, another Cheese place then Moo Town Wines where a further 9 were sampled. This was then followed by a chocolate tasting and the final winery which included trying wine and chocolate liqueurs. All in
all, lots had been sampled, quaffed and very much enjoyed. My glazed eyes and rosy cheeks were certainly tell tale signs that this had been a great afternoon and to top it off, I had an impromptu Skype from my brother and his girlfriend to tell me they'd got engaged. I could not be happier for them. It was superb news and the icing on the cake to what had already been a very enjoyable day. That evening there was only one way to celebrate and that was with more booze, only this time in the form of Tequila. We went to a funky little Mexican restaurant where the food, Tequila and Sangria flowed. It had a cool vibe and some fab artwork. Margaret River had not quite been the debonair place I had envisaged, where the locals quaffed wine happily with their noses and pinkys in the air but rather a slightly rough place with all walks of life. The following day rocking a slight hangover it was time to visit the Ngilgi Caves. Our guide 'Josh' had aboriginal ancestors and was still practising the traditional ways of bushcraft. The caves in the area had major significance to the
Aboriginal people, as out of a network of 7 caves, we could only visit one to note their depths and the natural formations of stalagmites and stalactites. The others in the area had been used as sacred buriel chambers. It was quite spectacular and provided fantastic acoustics when 'Josh' gave us a blast on his didgeridoo. My head certainly thought so! ? Outside of the cave he had created what a traditional aboriginal meeting place would look like. He explained the different tools they would use for hunting and how they had been created from the natural resources of the surrounding bush. The use of botanicals for so many functions was a fascinating topic and highlighted the resourcefulness of the aboriginal people. Josh is presently teaching his sons the language, techniques and traditions to ensure his heritage is not lost. It was a shame we couldn't stay longer but Perth was beckoning us back, as two of our group were leaving and two new people were joining us for the second leg. It was a fair journey back to Perth so to split it up we stopped for lunch at Busselton where we stretched our legs walking the longest jetty
in South Australia measuring 1.8km. The weather had changed slightly and it was quite bracing with my hair resembling electric shock treatment and my cheeks pinkened from wind burn on my return. We got to Perth around 5pm where we had the chance to shower and change before our last supper together. It had been a blast. We had laughed, chatted, grumbled at times and formed what I hoped, was long lasting friendships. 'Duffman' had suggested a little Italian restaurant in James St for our farewell dinner. It was a lovely evening with a slight tinge of sadness that Sue and Kriszy wouldn't be joining us for the next leg, although I would be catching up with Sue again in November when I visited Melbourne and we all vowed to stay in touch. The next morning we had a free day in Perth. Given the amount of booze, I had managed to consume in the last eight days accompanied with the amount of time I had spent sat on my butt in the bus, I needed to get back on my feet. A good walk was the order of the day. I decided to do a big loop leaving Perth
CBD and walk around a section of the Swan River visiting South Perth then stopping on Herrison Island to view kangaroos in their natural habitat. It was much cooler in Perth with a strong wind so it made for an interesting challenge. The houses in South Perth were high end and had fantastic views of the CBD skyline. The path remained close to the waters edge and passed by a few sandy bays. There was a variety of bird wildlife on the shore and around the internal lakes. It was a pleasant walk when the wind died down and the sun appeared from behind the clouds. It took about three hours for me to reach Herrison Island where a section had been fenced off to protect the natural area where Kangaroos resided. It was a lovely place to explore and keeping my eyes peeled I came across about six kangaroos resting and eating in the dulled sunlight. I watched these animals in their natural habitat for a while before heading back to base, to deal with my dreaded laundry. 'Bettie' who was continuing on the next leg of the trip with me, had decided to explore Perth that day but
in the evening we were going to treat ourselves and booked a table in the 'C Restaurant' - Perth's revolving restaurant located on the 33rd floor. 'Piglet' here, decided to have the 4 course menu with paired wines. It was divine and a million miles away from bloody swagging! Sometimes a little touch of luxury goes a long way! ? It took an hour and a half to complete one revolution so as we sat there and I scoffed Steak Tartar followed by Octopus with a Chorizo crumb, then Thyme infused Chicken with butter Polenta Cakes, finishing with a Passion Fruit Posset and Shortbread Biscuits accompanied with superbly paired wines, we watched Perth light up as the sun disappeared. This little piggy was truely happy! We'd opted for an early evening meal, as after dinner we would meet out new comrades who we would spend the next 10 days with. Now stuffed as an egg, we made our way to the bar we would meet them in. It would have been very antisocial not to have a welcome drink with them. So with yet another glass of wine in tow, I took a pew and got to know Sally-Anne and
Barbara. Sally-Anne was from Devon and enjoying some travelling before attending a family wedding in Brisbane later in October. Barbara, originally from Yorkshire who had lived in Brisbane for the last 30 years had decided to explore the West Coast. Both ladies who were slightly older, making me the youngest of the group by about 25 years were lovely and enjoyed a glass of vino! ? This was going to be another great trip. The following day it was an early start with a 6am breakfast before leaving Perth to head to Horrocks which would be our home for the night. Given my new found daredevil confidence after climbing the 54m Diamond Tree, I appeared to be well up for trialling 'Sand Boarding' at the massive dunes in Lancelin, which would be our first stop. It was actually easier than I thought it was going to be and quite fun, although it didn't provide the same buzz as sledging in snow. Sand gets everywhere, snow not so much! ?Our next stop was the Nambung National Park, where we got to view the 'Pinnacles' which are limestone formations jutting out of sand. I have to admit, I was completely underwhelmed when
I first saw them. I know size isn't everything but Turkey's, in the Coppadacia region were MUCH bigger! ? For me, I found it more interesting to hear the theories about how they might have been formed rather than what I could see. Still it was nice to take a stroll through them and view the vast area they covered. We took a quick lunch stop before heading to Greenough Wildlife Park. This small park was a rescue centre for bush animals that had been hurt or abandoned. As you can imagine there were many kangaroos but it wasn't the same with them being caged. Although ultimately once back to full strength these animals would be returned to the bush. We made it to our accommodation in Horrocks just in time to see the sunset over this pretty coastal town. The sky glowed pink and orange before the blackness set in for the night. This time we were overlooking the sea whilst we tucked in to a fab home cooked Ozzie Barbi which included Kangaroo. It was another 'Duffman' special. It didn't quite seem right that earlier in the day we had petted these creatures and now we were feasting
on them. Oh well, I guess that's the circle of life for you! It was really tender and full of flavour and this time expertly cooked, as I remember, not being so keen on it when I'd tried it in Sydney's revolving restaurant eight years previous. The following day was busy, with yet another early start. Not long after leaving we stopped to photograph this bizarre yet beautiful natural wonder, a Pink Lake. The colour caused by a particular type of algae. The pink water against the beautiful blue sky edged with the green foliage made for a remarkable sight. Today we were heading for Kalbarri but to get there we needed to pass through another country. No I haven't lost the plot although those that know me, know my geographical knowledge is dodgy at best ?. I have been known on occasion to struggle with left and right. We would need to pass through the Principality of Hut River. An area the size of Hong Kong which belongs to H.R.H. Prince Leonard Casley. I even had my passport stamped. The simple and short story to how this came about was Leonard declared war on Australia after a disagreement with
the Australian government about wheat production quantities. He then filed the appropriate documents to put himself in a position to declare war on Australia. He took advantage of a Long weekend (Bank holiday) as a response is required within 3 days and through an administrative cock up they surrendered and he now has his own country. I got to meet this remarkable yet quirky individual who is well in his 80's and still sharp as a tack. His country has its own currency, mailing system and Royal structure. He even has a painting that Prince Charles did for him in the early 1980's with an authenticated certificate. He has met many of the World's Leaders and Royal figures as I suppose, he is the ruler of one of the countries in it and has lots of memrobelia of these events. I signed his book and left a simple message in Welsh as H.R.H. requested. It wasn't the most eloquent of messages as that's all I could master was 'Good morning, how are you today? House = Excellent. It makes me smile that I have a qualification in Welsh and dissapointing that's all, I could conjure up. Oh well I hope
he appreciates the sentiment. My saving grace, the spelling would be correct! It was back on the bus for a short drive before we entered the Kalbarri National Park and took in the phenomenal coastline. We stopped at the following aptly named places; Natural Bridge, Island Rock, Grandstand, and Eagles Gorge. The shallow bays from these elevated viewing locations allowed us to see a Whale basking, just slightly out in the deeper water and a pod of about 15 Dolphins swim up the coast. This was something special as I'd only ever seen sights similar to this on the TV. Tonight we would be swagging again but this time we'd stay at 'Big River Ranch' just outside Kalbarri town. There were many different animals roaming about from Goats, Chickens, Peacocks, Horses, Dogs and a Cockerell. There were many large moths, a few roaches, even a mouse. We were definitely at one with nature out here, so out came the Antihistamines. We unloaded the trailer before returning to the town to watch the sunset over the coast. We had about an hour to enjoy the surroundings. I strolled along the bay and dipped my feet in the water. There were a
few families enjoying the area as I strolled to a viewing point. On my way there I glimpsed an Osprey holding a large fish in its claws. I managed to get a few pics before it flew off to enjoy its dinner. The view of the bay was yet another breathtaking site and the rip tide, hypnotic. We viewed the sunset from a memorial area for the Zuytdorf which was one of three ships owned by the Dutch East India Company that was shipwrecked in the area in 1712. The sky morphed from yellow through orange then pink outlining the last of the light before darkness resumed once more. Back at the Ranch (always wanted to say this) we enjoyed another home cooked meal and a few more vinos before unrolling our swags and settling I down for the night. There were far less caravans and a clear view to the starlit sky. Not that I had a clue what I was looking at!! The crickets clicked away in the background and at last a feeling of remoteness swept over me as I stared at the starry abyss above. I pulled over my swag flap and retreated into my bed
for a good nights rest. 3am its time for the Cockerell to kick off and wait, also the Peacock!!! I guess this was what it was like to be at one with nature which is probably why 'Princess Williams' was limiting this type of exposure! I retreated further into the swag, the temperature had dropped and I refused to come out until 6:30am. We grabbed breakfast by 7, and headed into the Kalbarri National Park. I'd decided to start the day with a 25m abseil down the side of the gorge. I wasn't sure what was quite going on with me but I seemed to have this new found courage and a 'Can do attitude'. I was definitely trying to make the most of my trip but with a key objective, to survive it so I could live to tell the tale. ? I was surprised how laid back I was as I got into position at the top of the gorge. Colin, the guide we were abseiling with was fantastic and before I knew it, I had gone over the edge...literally! It was a great feeling and I even started to jump out away from the face. I got
to do this twice and would definitely be looking for a chance to do this again somewhere. Once on the floor it was a short walk down to the Murchuson River which had a small amount of water in it. I felt so small stood in this magnificent gorge. The walk back to 'Gemma' (the Bus) wound through the naturally carved rock with a few strategically placed ladders. The day was hotting up and we needed to explore another area in the Park referred to as 'Nature's Window'. This was a hollow rock face situated above the gorge looking down onto it. This natural wonder certainly framed the beautiful landscape below and it was a great place for a photo. Back at the Ranch, ? we grabbed some lunch and chilled in the afternoon. When it cooled down slightly we took a stroll down to the river that ran just behind. It was more like a wetland area and it was enjoyable watching the birds bask in the last of the days sun. Given the early start nature had provided, my swag was unrolled around 9pm to get a good nights sleep. The following day we were heading to the
UNESCO Shark Bay World Heritage Area where we would stay for the next two nights at Monkey Mia located in the François Peron National Park. This place was a natural wonderland and a dream to visit. It covers such a large area so we would make a number of stops to see some of the key areas of interest. We started at Hamelin Pool where we saw the microbial mats and stromatolites which represent a large portion of the earth's history. Researches claim this is what life looked like three billion years ago. They thrive in the hypersaline waters. Although they are not much to look at, its the biological and historical significance that makes this place special. From the boardwalks that straddle this life form we picked up the short kilometre Boolagoorda trail passing a Fragum Cockle Shell block quarry across to a historic telegraph station. From afar the blocks resembled what looked like breezeblock but up close you could see the thousands of compacted shells. The blocks are now used only in the World Heritage area. The further North we headed the better the weather. It was time to cool off. Our next stop was Shell Beach, aptly
named because of the trillions of tiny cockle shells piled up to 10 metres deep that creates it. The sea was warm, shallow and hypersaline which made it great to float in. It was amazingly clear and bright because of the white shell surface, it lapped over. I was in heaven. After a quick dip we made our way to Eagles Bluff for views overlooking Shark Bay shallow waters. It was such a striking landscape where we could see a flock of Pied Comorants on the edge of the small lush island that was edged with the clearest and bluest waters. From there we made our way to a place called Denham where I once again took a dip to cool down in the shallow waters. This time the ocean floor was filled with large numbers of hermit crabs and small marine wildlife. It took me back to my childhood days when I used to drag my Dad to the Rock pools and spent hours watching these fascinating creatures. The water was so clear it was easy to take a look into this watery underworld. Denham appeared to be quite built up, compared to other areas with at least a
few Shops, Hotels, Petrol Station, a Pub, a Discovery Centre and an Information Centre. It had a great sea front with boats moored up and you could begin to see the how living here would be possible. However our final destination this evening would be Monkey Mia. It was located on the East Coast of this Peninsula and was about a 30 minute drive away. We rocked up around 6 o clock. It was a large Holiday Resort with all types of accomodation from camping to caravanning to shared rooms to private rooms. I'm pleased to report we had private rooms that slept two people with a shared bathroom between just us four. It was nice and clean with a great air con system. The temperature had began to soar which was lovely but trying to stay hydrated in these conditions whilst partaking in a few vino's was proofing to be a fine balancing act. It was ensuring you took on board enough fluid without needing a 'pee' every five minutes. The evening breeze was warm and we enjoyed yet another of 'Duffmans' culinary delights. However the warm conditions had brought with it a flock of 'Stink Bugs'. Aptly named
as if you stood too close to them or accidently crushed them, they let off this disgusting scent. Again I was living the dream in this paradise location with nature all around. 😉 The following day 'Duffman' had advised us to take a stroll over to the jetty to watch the sun come up. Sunrise was due at 5:30am but the start of witnessing first light was a must so at 5am we made our way to the Jetty. It was still quite warm and had a wonderful peacefullness about it, as anyone with half a brain, was still asleep. As we approached the Jetty you could just start to see the first of the light creeping in. The intense pinky orange with a yellow tinge lit the horizon, the clouds still appearing black and the night sky a deep blue with the crescent moon shining brightly. It was truely breathtaking and worth every ounce of strength it had taken me, to leave the confines of my bed that morning. As the sun steadily rose but not yet in sight, the sky lightened and the yellow and pinky orange bands spread out. The clouds whitened and the moon dissappeared. Stood
on the Jetty the waves lapped in steadily but quietly. The tranquility of this experience, overwhelming. A faint slapping noise in the water could be heard. We looked around and spied a couple of Green Turtles swimming happily, raising to the surface of the water to take a breath. This was an added bonus to what had already been an experience I would'nt forget. Finally the intense white ball with a bright yellow surround appeared and the sun rose magnificantly from the water. The temperature dropped slightly and cool breeze was a welcome change. It took a matter of minutes before you could fully view it in all its glory. The pinky orangey bands spread further afield until we were in the full brightness of the sun which hung proudly against a pale blue background. The water lit up, from the new found daylight which gave a clear view of the turtles. Another day had started and I had a feeling it was going to be a great one. Monkey Mia is famous for being able to feed the Dolphins. This was going to take place just by the Jetty but not until about 7:30am. So we grabbed some breakfast
and a cuppa before such an event. I think I am viewed as one of these strange folks who's not really bothered about Dolphins so I was quite underwhelmed by the prospect of feeding them. I was however looking forward to seeing the Pelicans who were also known for putting in an appearance around the sametime. We made our way back to the spot it was all going to happen, even early enough to grab some seats. To my delight the Pelicans were already milling about on the sand. These magnificient quirky birds were fun to watch whilst they waited to get a look in at some fish. I got near to one in readiness to take a photo, maybe abit too near when it launched at me. Luckily when it saw me flee, it wasnt asked about chasing me, which was a massive relief as I didnt fancy getting bitten by that massive jaw. I still wanted a photo, but this time I would leave a safe distance. I got back to me seat and stretched out waiting to view the Dolphin's feeding. The sun shone brightly and with it gave off this wonderful warmth. I lazed in the
very comfortable angled chair and the next thing I knew I was back in the land of nod. I stirred to see a pile of people lined up at the foreshore ready to the feed the Dolphins. At this point I was very happy where I was, just watching at a distance. I felt refreshed after my little snooze and was ready to play postman duties. Morena, who was my roommate in Fremantle and made me feel really welcome asked me to deliver a message to a friend she had met whilst travelling through Oz. I had mentioned my trip would go to Monkey Mia and this is where here friend was now located working at the Dolphin Lodge Hotel Resort. It just happened thats where I'd be staying, so I delivered an Origami Swan with a message inside. It was a nice, quirky thing to do and even better when she had confirmed the message delivery had been successful. It was great I had aided the Australian postal system. 😉 Postal duties concluded, it was time for our Aboringinal Canoe Tour which was part of out trip itinerary. Our Aboringinal guide, Capesy was fantastic. His wealth of knowledge about
Francois Peron National Park and the Big Lagoon area where we would spend the day was phenomenal. To reach the 'Big Lagoon' we needed to drive through the red sand bushland of this dry park. We travelled in a 4WD Land Rover to be able to navigate through the sandy roads passing Lizards basking in the sun at the top of dead tree branches. This was a very different terrain from what we had covered previously and you definitely required the right equipment. Throughout the Park we passed new and different road signs highlighting the need to be careful with the surrounding wildlife. We passed a 'Bilby' (looks like a mouse with big ears) and Mallee Fowl' (looks like a skinny turkey) sign. These animals are being protected due to the drop in numbers after rabbits and foxes to the area. There is currently a big and effective campaign to remove these non native species from such areas across Western Australia. As we arrived at the edge of the 'Big Lagoon' we saw a 'Goanna' (large lizard) basking in the sun on the hot sand. The sun beating down, the breeze warm and sticky, the water looked so inviting. I
had intended to take in a walk, later that day during my free time so had decided not to adorn my bathers that morning so that I would be ready to go straight on our return. Given we were supposed to be in a canoe I thought the likelihood of me getting wet was slim. Little did I know!!! We would be kayaking, out all day returning after sun down and I'd invariably get soaked. That all said, it was a truely amazing day. 'Capesy' provided a great lunch before we set off full of GF goodies and then we took to the shallow water and out to the tip of the Lagoon in our Kayaks. I shared one with Sally and it was great fun. We saw Stingrays up close, I got to hold a turtle after Capesy jumped in the water and caught it. Given its cousin bit my elbow when I snorkelled in Kelly Tarquin's Aquarium when visiting New Zealand previously I was careful to keep its face away from me. It weighed what felt like a bloody tonne and wasn't even fully grown but was a totally cool experience to have held one. The Lagoon was
very shallow in places and we did get beached slightly so it was into the water to pull the Kayak out to a slightly deeper section before entering it again and anyone who has kayaked previously will know that your bum always gets wet because of the slight spray created from the paddle. The next thing to get wet was my hat, so now with my shorts wet, part of my top and my hat I looked like I'd been dragged through a hedge backwards by the time we returned. We had paddled a fair distance out, so paddling against the current on our return made for a good work out!!! I just hoped the following day I had enough upper body strengh for my morning cuppa. We returned to the shoreline and packed all the equippment back up leaving just as the sun got ready to set. It was a good time to be driving through the National Park as we spotted a few Kangaroos going about their business as their day was just beginning and ours was coming to an end. We returned exhausted but on a high with all that we'd experienced. Today had certainly been another
highlight. The following morning our time in Shark Bay World Heritage Area had come to an end and it was time to head North past Carnarvon and into the Ningaloo Marine Park for our next nights stay in Coral Bay. It was a fair distance to cover but was nice to chill out in the bus after the past few hectic days. On our way there we stopped briefly in Carnavon which is where most fruit crops are grown. We were lucky to find a small place still open where I purchased a fresh Mango pulp covered in chocolate Ice-lolly and a Pink Grapefruit, that I would enjoy for breakfast when I returned to Perth. Speaking to the owner, about the issues we'd had trying to locate somewhere we could purchase some fruit, we discovered many businesses had shut due to the damage 'Cyclone Olwyn' had unleashed back in March when entire crops had been destroyed. It had certainly impacted this area. Enjoying our fruity treats we stopped to have lunch before heading to see the 'Blowhole' located just outside Carnarvon. Unlike the blowhole, we had witnessed in Albany, this one really showed the power of the Indian Ocean as
it crashed into the side of the coast and spouted many meters in the air. It was really impressive to watch this magnificent ocean build momentum and literally 'blow its top'. If you stood in the wrong place you got more than a light dusting of spray!! Back on the bus it wasnt long before we passed 'The Tropic of Capricorn' line and whilst there I saw my first ever real tumbleweed blow across the the road and into the bush. I was well chuffed, as its a reference I used quite often. Thats all was missing was the bells tolling in the background. 😉 We got to Coral Bay about 5 'o' clock so I had time to freshen up before taking a short stroll to the viewing point to watch the sun go down. The clouds had gathered over the horizon so it wasn't as clear as I had previously seen but I was glad I stayed to watch it, as the surrounding sky lit up and edged the cloud line as once again another day came to an end. Our accomodation here was first class facing onto the wonderful Coral Bay and tonight we would sample the
delights of the local restaurant. To start I ordered Salt and Pepper Squid in a light cornflour batter followed by a beautiful piece of Belly Pork with Apple Puree. It was fabulous and melted in the mouth. Again another bottle of red accompanied such a delight which led to a great nights sleep. The next day, it was time to explore the Ningaloo Reef another UNESCO World Heritage Area where Coral Bay was located. I decided to start with a Glass Bottom Boat Tour which stopped at strategic points to allow us to get out and snorkel. So rocking some pink flippers, eye mask and an oversized blue rash vest which looked more like a dress I was ready to enter the water. As we hovered, above this magnificiant reef system which started from the shoreline and out into the depths of the Ocean you could view the daily goings on of this watery paradise. The coloured reef intermixed with the vibrant coloured fish made for a wondrous site. I saw 'Humbug' fish aptly named as they were striped Black and White. I saw fish with what looked like they had orange eye shadow on and an array sporting different
irradescent shades aswell as Angel and Clown fish. They were tiny, small, big and in some cases, huge. It was hypnotising and at times difficult to know where to look, not too miss anything. The boat stopped at two different locations with both areas being equally good. At one point, I felt so much at one with this watery world that I could have given 'Ariel' a run for her money . ?It was time to explore another area before we departed this gem of a place. We grabbed an early lunch before strolling across the sand dunes and making our way down onto Skeleton Bay which has the largest recorded annual aggregation of reef sharks within the Ningaloo Marine Park. For this reason it is known as a Shark sanctuary area. The water in this location is fairly shallow, being no deeper than about 2 foot and is crystal clear ensuring you can make out whats there. Given these are a wild animal, you are advised to stay on the shoreline as you migrate around the bay. There is no guarantee that you will see them but having been quite lucky so far with the wildlife in W.A., I
felt quietly confident and I was right to do so. All of sudden you start to see a long black object circuling about and then you see a small fin appear above the water. I have to say I was a little dissappointed it wasnt more 'Jaws' like but still totally cool to observe. A little further down the shoreline we saw a group of them swimming about and one did venture towards us where we managed to get a better look. Unfortunatley it was diificult to capture this moment on film but fantastic to watch nonetheless. We also spied some stingrays which had different colourings to those seen previously. On the way back across the rocky coastline was my highlight. About fifteen or so crabs clambering out of the water together seeking shelter under the rocks on the foreshore. They were khaki in colour with ruby patches. As we made our way to them, to grab a photo they picked up speed and raised their pinchers. I just love their attitude and of course I am a cancerian! 😊 It was unusual to see such a mass exodus from the water which made witnessing this a little special. I
enjoyed the stroll back along the beach taking in the last of the breathtaking view as it was time to head to our final destination of the tour, Exmouth. We arrived late afternoon and it was Hot! Hot! Hot! We settled into the Potshot Resort which unfortunately was not as high end as Coral Bay but nevertheless better than "swagging". It was another chilled evening and we reminisced over all we'd seen on our trip together as our final day approached. It was a 7am breakfast as usual and today we had alot fit in. We headed to the furthest Northern point of the West Coast where we stopped to look at the 13 Tall Towers structure, a communication transmitter for Naval ships and submarines that works using Very Low Frenquency (VLF). We entered the Ningaloo Marine Park once more and visited Vlamingh Head to take in views of North West Cape from the Lighthouse positioned there. We remained within the park and stopped at Yardie Creek. This is the only gorge area within Cape Range to be permanently full of water. I walked to the end of it taking in the views of this picturesque area and sanctuary for
many wild birds. It retains its water due to a sand bank located at the mouth where it meets the sea, however due to stormy conditions and high tides both sea and river water mixes at this point which helps maintain the health of this estuarine environment. As we had headed North, the temperature had most certainly increased and even the breeze was no longer cooling. Luckily our next stop involved snorkeling at an area called Turquoise Bay. You can see why from the photos. It was yet another area that resembled paradise and the marine life here was incredible. We spent about an hour there which was enough time as I was knackered fighting the strong current as the tide went out. It was easy to get dragged along being mesmerised by the aquatic world below. Feeling like I'd had a good workout, I was glad it was lunchtime. We enjoyed a picnic lunch at the Milyering Information Centre which provided lots of interesting facts about the Ningaloo Marine Park and the different Sanctuary Zones they have in the area. Sanctuary Zones have been formulated to provide total protection for marine life whilst allowing visitors to observe it, in
its natural state. It was soon time to head back as we needed to freshen up in readiness for our final treat, which was a Sunset Whale Watching Tour. Waiting for the bus to take us to the harbour for our tour, an Emu accompanied with his six chicks walked nonchalantly across the road. I'm sure theres a joke in there, somewhere. If there was one thing I would definitely take from W.A. is, how much wildlife I had seen freely roaming about. It had been amazing!!! We arrived at the harbour and boarded the boat for our evening's entertainment. It was a 'Bring Your Own' trip, so I'd packed a bottle of red! 😉 Canapes, Cheeseboard and local Prawns would be served thoughout whilst we hunted for the Whales. Given it was the final tour of the season there was no guarantee that we would see anything. So you can imagine my surprise and pure excitement when the Humpback Whale calf weighing around 4 tonne did a 'Free Willy' move. Not just once either, the playful calf accompanied by his much larger mother weighing around 16 tonnes and another adult, entertained us for about 2 hours. For the first
hour there were lots of Oooohs and Ahhhhs when we saw them blow water or show abit of fin. Then as the sun fell the calf became very playful and I couldnt believe it, when it jumped right out of the water. The mother was very calm and then started some tail slapping moves of her own. These amazing creatures which I'd only ever seen on David Attenboroughs 'Blue Planet' series were now entertaining me just off the coast of Exmouth. This had made for an amazing last day as everytime, there had been the mere mention of the word, 'Whale' the 'Free Willy' joke had been passed and low and behold, now we'd seen it! Amazing!! 😊 😊 😊 The food on board had also been really yummy and made for a great starter as we had a table booked for our farwell dinner. I went all out, with the Salmon and Hollandaise Sauce followed by a rather fabulous cocktail named 'Toblerone' for dessert. I was full to bursting with food and on a massive high from all that I'd seen on this trip. Theres always certain things that stand out when you travel and for me, seeing 'Free
Willy' will be one thing, I will never forget. The funniest thing, I wasn't really fussed about booking the Sunset Tour. I only decided to go along as I thought it would be a nice thing for us all to finish off with. Its ended up being one of the best decisions I've made. 😊 The following day, after breakfast it was time to bid farewell to Barbara, who was continuing onto Broome and Sally, who had a flight booked back to Perth. For me, Bettie and Duffman, it was back on the bus for the two day solid drive back to Perth. The journey back was pretty chilled and given we were now down to two passengers we had loads of room on 'Gemma' to spread out. Duffman covered the biggest distance on Day 1 of our two day journey with us taking refuge in Geraldton overnight. We were making excellent time on Day two of the journey back to Perth so 'Duffman' very kindly stopped at Yanchep National Park where we could go check out Koalas while having our last lunch together. It was a lovely place to stretch our legs and a for a few moments it
didnt feel like the end of the road for this trip. Unfortunately a few hours later, I said my goodbyes and returned to the Billabong Backpackers resort for my final two nights in W.A. Of course, it was back to reality with a bang, with washing to do and get used to being on my own again, for the next leg of my journey. That night I decided to give my liver a rest and ended up flaked out by about 8:30pm. We had covered a total distance of ~6500km (~4040 miles) in 19 days and completed so much on the trip. With new places to see and explore everyday you end up running on adrenalin (and wine) with not much sleep. 😉 On my last full day in Perth I started to repack my case again in readiness for my Darwin adventure but did manage to squeeze in a final stroll towards the CBD. As I strolled I was reminiscent of the past six weeks and all that I'd experienced. The weather had been more than good even with a few showery days at the beginning. I had seen some truely wonderful landscapes and wildlife and met some really
lovely people but for me, W.A. had not won me over enough to want to stay permenantly. It had a quirkiness all of its own and I find it strange to say this coming from the South Wales Valleys!! It is ridiculously expensive, even for the simplest of things. They really need to work on their culinary offerings and there isn't enough going on here. With nightfall appearing so early in the evening, everyone is home by 8pm unless you find a rare gem of a place thats still open. I love the social aspects at home and the long twilights. So regardless of the Rugby score mine still remains Wales 1 Australia 0. Now I just need to find out if the Northern Territory will change this.
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Beth Cowdry
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Anna The Adventurer!
Well what can I say? Wales' own answer to Indiana Jones ? Looks like you had a 'whale' of a time! Boom Boom ? Tan is coming along very nicely I see. We'll all look like albinos next to you if you carry on! Photos are absolutely stunning and some of the food that you've sampled sounds divine. Would like to say I can't believe you ate Skippy after meeting his brother but I would be lying ? Glad to hear you're not quite teetotal, though 'quite' may be an understatement ? Sounds like you met some lovely people. They sound like a good bunch ? Well onwards and upwards towards your next adventure! Your Number One fan, my Mam, will enjoy reading this. Amazing ? Bxx